control box.

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twotone68

twotone68

lifetime mopar man
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To all you ignition and electrical gurus. My 68 dart 2 dr. sedan. When i put my mancini racing ,electronic ignition conversion kit in. I followed all the instructions to the letter !!! checked all voltages, oms. and soldered and shrink sleeved all connections. The motor is a 75 318, new stock correct for the motor coil, msd super conductor wires. when I first got it running back in July,it ran for about 15 miles and break in time, then the orange control box went out. Ommed the coil and found it to be out of spec. Installed new factory electronic ignition coil and a new orange box. It just lost the control box again this morning. Put a parts store one on it and it's running again. so 5 months later ,why another control box?? Got wiring instructions and my factory wiring diagram out and traced everything. No errors??? any help!!! Also it has a voltmaster high amp. single wire alternater,also wired correctly .
 
You ARE?? running the recommended ballast resistor and coil?

Where is the box mounted physically, think engine/ header heat?

The box is well grounded?

How about charging voltage? (Measured at the battery when running fast)

Also check the following:

Key on, engine off, one probe of meter to ground, probe each side of the ballast resistor and see which one is higher. (Other side goes to the coil)

High side should be "same as" battery voltage.

Low side should be quite low, anywhere from 4-8V or so

Now, leave your meter probe clipped to the "high" reading side of the ballast. Remove the ground probe and transfer it to a battery source, such as the starter relay battery terminal, the "big" stud.

You are hoping for a very LOW reading, the lower the better. You don't want to see MORE than .2--.3V, that's 3 tenths of one volt. A higher reading indicates a voltage drop in the wiring harness.
 
I will perform all those tests. I am running the rec. ballast and coil.Box is mounted on the drivers fender where the washer resevoir would be.high rpm voltage is 14.8 v.
 
I have read that if you leave the ignition on with engine not running, the Mopar ECU can fail. Many people find the ECU problematic, others never had a failure. Too late for you, but I wouldn't wire a 68 Dart for the old Mopar electronic ignition. A GM 8-pin HEI module is much simpler, better, and cheaper. For either, insure you have a solid ground to the case of the ECU. I would never rely on the sheet-metal screw as the factory did. That saved $0.50, but caused un-told problems for owners 40 years later.
 
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