we are getting the same cold weather everyone else is. i'm shocked that the heat output is so lame. i've checked the anti-freeze (it's full) and installed the recommended thermostat this last summer. the car is a 75 valiant. suggestions?
cool heater
- Thread starter 75valiant
- Start date
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ESP47
Well-Known Member
Make sure your blend doors are fully opening. If you have a non AC car, look under the dash and follow the cable that connects to the "Warmer" slider over to the heater box. Make sure the cable opens the blend door completely and isn't just going halfway.
Sometimes the cables get bent as well. So it feels like the slider is working but it's really just bending the wire inside the cable without moving the door at all.
Sometimes the cables get bent as well. So it feels like the slider is working but it's really just bending the wire inside the cable without moving the door at all.
cudajim
cudajim
You may need to flush the heater core really well. Disconnect the external hoses then use your garden hose to flush then back-flush the other direction several times. You may find lots of nasty stuff coming out and the heater will probably work better.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Very first thing is determine IF IF the engine is running up to temperature. I do not mean "looking at" the factory gauge.
Second thing is to get the engine warm, "fast idle" and simply feel the two hoses with heater on and blower on "high." Both should be "too hot" to touch for long
You need to use your head. Divide the problem
Is it.......engine running cold
heater core plugged, or other cause of poor water flow.
(If you have AC some cars have a water control valve)
Is it a heater mechanical door problem
Is the air actually cool, or just not much air? IE, could it be a blower problem?
Second thing is to get the engine warm, "fast idle" and simply feel the two hoses with heater on and blower on "high." Both should be "too hot" to touch for long
You need to use your head. Divide the problem
Is it.......engine running cold
heater core plugged, or other cause of poor water flow.
(If you have AC some cars have a water control valve)
Is it a heater mechanical door problem
Is the air actually cool, or just not much air? IE, could it be a blower problem?
coffeedart67
Well-Known Member
Don't know if the heater controls in 75 had the plastic pins, my 67 had a plastic pin that was broke, so only one door in the box was opening and closing, don't remember if it was the floor heat door or defrost door. I bought a 75 Duster back in the late 80's, -36 degrees and the heat didn't work, about an hour and half drive home, took it to a local service station, the cables were unhooked at the box, they couldn't reach them, I pulled the glove compartment out hooked em back up, no luck! Took it to a parts store/service station, they had it about 1/2 hour and called and said the tank heater was plugged, told them to go ahead and replace it. After that I would start with a jacket and a sweatshirt on, and after about 15 minutes, I would be down to a t-shirt.
Aaron
Aaron
thanks for answering! right after i made this post, i drove over to the next town, and very fortunately discovered that the fuel pump decided to take a dump. due to the smelly dipstick (and "disappearing" oil smeared on my fingers), i called AAA and took a ride home.
when it warms up this weekend, after replacing the pump and changing the oil and filter, i will inspect the cable and feel the hoses. i am fairly certain that this engine is NOT prone to running hot. down the road, i plan to change over to electric fans like aggressive ted. however, it is possible that the heater core is plugged (though i doubt it).
if it makes any difference, this was a california car. still has the original (working) air pump and catalytic converter.
when it warms up this weekend, after replacing the pump and changing the oil and filter, i will inspect the cable and feel the hoses. i am fairly certain that this engine is NOT prone to running hot. down the road, i plan to change over to electric fans like aggressive ted. however, it is possible that the heater core is plugged (though i doubt it).
if it makes any difference, this was a california car. still has the original (working) air pump and catalytic converter.
MidnightSwinger
Well-Known Member
Don't forget also that the heater pulls air from the fresh air box,which comes from the cowl vent. Leaves and all kinds of crap can get sucked into your heater box and clog it up.
sorry, i am accustomed to being on the slantsix website. the car is a 75 valiant custom 4 door slant six automatic w/o AC, standard brakes and power steering. i looked at rockauto and discovered i can't yet locate a heater control valve for a non-ac car.
i should mention, the cowl was PACKED with leaf/debris. it took quite a while to blow/suck it out to where i can drive down the road w/o debris flying around. that is a likely suspect for the heater box. i have a rainwater leak that is going to require removal of the dash to repair (the dash, not the dash pad), as i am not excited about drilling/removing the cowl assembly. didn't mean to get into all of that, but that is a project that is going to have to wait until spring.
i've never had a car that wouldn't heat well, and i am 53 years old. time to learn.
i should mention, the cowl was PACKED with leaf/debris. it took quite a while to blow/suck it out to where i can drive down the road w/o debris flying around. that is a likely suspect for the heater box. i have a rainwater leak that is going to require removal of the dash to repair (the dash, not the dash pad), as i am not excited about drilling/removing the cowl assembly. didn't mean to get into all of that, but that is a project that is going to have to wait until spring.
i've never had a car that wouldn't heat well, and i am 53 years old. time to learn.
There's a lot of info in this thread.....
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=257108
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=257108
player1up
Well-Known Member
Mine did the same thing. I ended up having a number of issues.
1. Heater control valve was nothing more than a vacuum leak. Replaced with a manual valve as I'm in FL and only need the heat about 2 days a year.
2. Heater core was slightly plugged. Flushed with garden hose that I hose clamped to the core.
The next one really got me good... I never thought the outlet on the pump could get so bad...
3. Outlet on the water pump to the heater core was plugged SOLID with oxidation ( white stuff that was rock hard )
The one thing I will say is that first thing in the morning, Even after all of the stuff was fixed I could let the slant run for 15-20 min idling in the driveway ( seemed like forever ), but the heater wouldn't get hot until I drove it a couple of miles.
It wasn't until I switched to an electric fan that it would warm up in a couple of min.
Mine had the 6 blade fan with no clutch prior to the electric fan setup.
1. Heater control valve was nothing more than a vacuum leak. Replaced with a manual valve as I'm in FL and only need the heat about 2 days a year.
2. Heater core was slightly plugged. Flushed with garden hose that I hose clamped to the core.
The next one really got me good... I never thought the outlet on the pump could get so bad...
3. Outlet on the water pump to the heater core was plugged SOLID with oxidation ( white stuff that was rock hard )
The one thing I will say is that first thing in the morning, Even after all of the stuff was fixed I could let the slant run for 15-20 min idling in the driveway ( seemed like forever ), but the heater wouldn't get hot until I drove it a couple of miles.
It wasn't until I switched to an electric fan that it would warm up in a couple of min.
Mine had the 6 blade fan with no clutch prior to the electric fan setup.
MobileCustoms
Well-Known Member
I vote mouse nest in the heater box!
Good advice above for process of elimination to follow.
Good advice above for process of elimination to follow.
HotLines
Realist - Free Thinker
Since my Signet is not stock by a long shot... I removed that long thing which turns me into a contortionist when needing to check anything under the dash and replaced it with a Vintage air " heater " a 12 inch box with throws out more heat on low than the stock heater on high. It's 3 speeds with dual outlets for the defroster. It's easy to install, cost me 2 hundred bucks and I've been a happy camper ever since..
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