Cooling help needed??

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^*Single tear washes down face* :prayer:


If we could get people to stop falling for gimmicks we might be able to get somewhere!
 
RustyRatRod said:
1). You have a LOT of radiator space blocked off from incoming air.

2). Throw the stupid 160* thermostat in the ditch and use either a 180* or a 195*.

A Thermostat has ZERO ZERO ZERO ZERO to do with maximum operating temperature. ZERO. It only controls the minimum operating temperature. PERIOD.

3). What's the specs on those fans? You need about 4K CFM of air flow give or take for a warmed up or hot engine.

4). Get your timing sorted out. Didn't you say in your other thread that your timing is at 12* BTDC? That sounds a little low and low initial timing can and WILL cause one to overheat.

5). There have been enough threads on here about bad luck with Champion radiators, that I will never, ever buy one. Were they the last radiator on earth, I would walk.
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Power= heat right?

If it stays at or below 220 is that an issue? I agree with the diagnosis but is the temp that bad if there is no boil-over? Why does everyone think their car needs to run under 180? One thing for sure that if it does, you can bet on getting some good sludge going on. My motor always made its best power between 195 and 220!
 
The timing is now at 18btc but no change in temp.
I don't have enough room to run the steel 7 blade fan with this radiator as its too deep, I've just measured it.

I've stated pulling the water pump off to swap it for the original one and I'll change the Thermostat to a 180. Hopefully this will help.

Worst case is I'll ditch the champion radiator and get a new 3 core one and run the big 7 blade fan and schroud.

Will keep you posted, and thanks for all your replies.
 
And IMO electric fans push better then they pull. I put two fans in front of Rad., Got worried they would not keep cool so I put on Original Mech. fan as well. This works well for me so far. And get a original BB copper Rad. and have it re-cored with a high efficiency three row core. It will not be inexpensive but I think this is the best way to cool our cars.
 
goldduster318 said:
That fan shroud is way too close to the radiator. You're asking the air during free flow to make an extremely abrupt turn once it passes through the rad. I'm betting you're getting "stacking" and no air is flowing.
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Thanks for the fan & shroud pix. I agree with the above 100%. The shroud is so tight to the rad surface that it is simply blocking the airflow from all parts of the rad except the 2 holes right in front of the fans. This has been reported and discussed before.

Changing to a 180 t'stat wil just move the start temp of the slow temp climb at a higher point, so will not fix the overall temp issue. (Best power and operating temp is a separate question form the current problem.) Change to the big fan, and I bet it will be much better at any road speed. A shroud will eventually be needed to help at low speed and at a stop.

Here is our 3" thick x 22" wide AL rad with a big fan in a 10:1 CR 340; temps have not gotten over 190-200F yet (but were are not in summer yet). The shroud is a Mopar PN adapted on. Look at the depth it has for the air to turn.

Wish I could put in a clutch fan but the space is not there.
 

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nm9stheham said:
Thanks for the fan & shroud pix. I agree with the above 100%. The shroud is so tight to the rad surface that it is simply blocking the airflow from all parts of the rad except the 2 holes right in front of the fans. This has been reported and discussed before.

Changing to a 180 t'stat wil just move the start temp of the slow temp climb at a higher point, so will not fix the overall temp issue. (Best power and operating temp is a separate question form the current problem.) Change to the big fan, and I bet it will be much better at any road speed. A shroud will eventually be needed to help at low speed and at a stop.

Here is our 3" thick x 22" wide AL rad with a big fan in a 10:1 CR 340; temps have not gotten over 190-200F yet (but were are not in summer yet). The shroud is a Mopar PN adapted on. Look at the depth it has for the air to turn.

Wish I could put in a clutch fan but the space is not there.
Click to expand...
What's the application of the fan shroud?
 
The shroud Mopar PN is 2998324. Mopowers gets credit for identifying it as a /6 shroud flipped upside down, and the PO of my son's car gets credit for originally installing it; we just improved the mounting. The shroud opening is larger than the fan and the opening is not perfectly centered on the fan axis; the top fan clearance to shroud is tight and the bottom fan clearance is well over an inch. So it is not perfect and we still have to test this in summer stopped in traffic, but keeps the rad open to flow all over. The bottom of the shroud is above the trans cooling connections on a rad core which is 17" tall IIRC.

This installation is in a '65 'Cuda.
 
Look at the tubes in that radiator. The one I had only had about an 1/8 inch opening. The griffin has 1.25 inch tubes. the champion just couldnt flow enough water at speed. Pull the cap and rev it and observe the flow.
 
^^^ Actually the Griffin tubes are only about 1/8" thick also. But your observation of better flow is a valuable piece of data.
 
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