Could use some tech info.

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340Dust-her

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The brake forum seems less responsive. I ordered the complete front end kit from online performance.I'm waiting for the control arms and knuckle to come in so I can start the front disc conversion. The kit comes with a booster/mc, 2lb and 10lb residual valves and an adjustable proportional valve. Rear will be drums. Looks like I'm going to have to replace the complete brake lines all around. Is the adjustable proportional valve suppose to be mounted before or after the combination valve? Since the car was originally a 4 wheel drum. Do I have to use a different combination valve? Lastly, I'm guessing for this application a 10lb residual valve is the best bet. Does it matter how far back it's mounted for the rear brake lines? I was going to splice by the frame before the T-connector. Thank you, if anything :)
 
340Dust-her said:
Thanks dood. If anyone cares to throw their .02 in the residual valve please do so.
Click to expand...

Don't need them on a Mopar. MaMopar thought it was a better idea to put expander cups in the wheel cylinders to hold the pistons in place than it was to keep pressure on the whole system. The pistons in the calipers won't retract, so keeping pressure on them will only cause the brakes to drag. Have to agree with her on this one. If you run an adjustable prop valve you also don't need the combination valve since it does the same job but is not adjustable.
 
grumpuscreature said:
Don't need them on a Mopar. MaMopar thought it was a better idea to put expander cups in the wheel cylinders to hold the pistons in place than it was to keep pressure on the whole system. The pistons in the calipers won't retract, so keeping pressure on them will only cause the brakes to drag. Have to agree with her on this one. If you run an adjustable prop valve you also don't need the combination valve since it does the same job but is not adjustable.
Click to expand...

Expander cups? Read about the combination valve. Thanks :)
 
Ok, I got the majority down. The m/c has no residual valves so they include 2lb and 10lb valves to be plumbed into the system. The 2lb goes to the front before the T fitting. The adjustable proportional valve replaces the stock combination valve. My last question is. Do I plumb the 10lb residual valve before or after the adjustable proportional valve? Thank you guys!
 
also, you won't need a residual valve for the fronts unless your master is mounted under floor like a hotrod.
 
pauly v.100 said:
also, you won't need a residual valve for the fronts unless your master is mounted under floor like a hotrod.
Click to expand...

That's what I thought. I mentioned this to the tech and he said it dosent matter. That the mc itself dosent have a residual valve and I need to plumb one for the fronts.
 
fyi- the master i got from mancini is for a disc/disc setup. i have drums on back. so when i got the "no residual valve needed" rear wheel cylinders from ehrenberg, the rears would drag after using brakes. when i installed the 10 lb. residual they worked fine. im not sure if thats because of difference in the master or what. i emailed e-berg and he said theres no need for res. valve with his wheel cylinders but i needed the valve to make mine work. if you're running drums in back just make sure you get disc/drum master cyl. and maybe you won't need res. valve.
hope this helps
- pauly
 
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