Yup that has bit my butt before!!!!!
Good point.
curious about valve lash setting/check
- Thread starter oldmusclelover
- Start date
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Good point.
But this is the simplest way I know of and works be it a Chevy or Mopar. (Same firing order.)
And only two places to set them.
TDC firing #1
TDC firing #6
This is from a mercruiser manual
Also in the boat world engines are viewed from the rear so a standard rotation engine is left hand, just if someone is unaware.
Not sure why pic. Is blurry
But they start on #1
Then turn crank 1 turn to fire #6
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69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
Like they say, there are a hundred ways to skin a cat. I'd say the gasket-maker alone might work, but let it cure for a couple days before refilling the coolant and running it. A 100% sure-fire way get rid of t-stat leaks is to spend $75 or so and get a real billet aluminum housing (not cast!) that uses an o-ring to seal. No gaskets or sealant required. But it's not for everyone.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
That method works as long as the cam isn't very big. With bigger, more aggressive lobes, you can get false setting because you will catch the lash ramp.
oldmusclelover
Well-Known Member
Bob, I couldn't see it with a straight edge, but as soon as I started taking material down, sure enough, bowed from hole to hole. thank you, got it cleaned up.
oldmusclelover
Well-Known Member
what's the reasoning behind 'it's not for everyone' 69? just curious
oldmusclelover
Well-Known Member
Kim, I could actually see it leaking, and it was coming out right where it was warped. once I took some material off, I could see it plain as day.
oldmusclelover
Well-Known Member
alright guys, this is what I found (and did it numerous times to check), back and forth on the push rod vs. spinning for drag, and it might be my touch here, but as I said...numerous times, the back and forth on the push rod seems to get me 1/2 hour clocking earlier, consistently! don't know if that's a big deal, but I thought I would throw that out there to see if anyone else agrees, or disagrees. here's the big question: I noticed there was pressure on the #5 intake, #7 intake, and the #7 exhaust when setting. is there a reason for this? although I did this meticulously, I will run through it again tomorrow....practice makes perfect, right? curious about the pressure on those 3 valves. thanks again, so many helpful inputs, I really can't thank you all enough. waiting another 15 minutes to set the t-stat housing to torque, then....as 69 said, I will wait the 2 days curing time. so......if it isn't snowing/raining, I'll hopefully be out on Thanksgiving.
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
The expense.
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
oldmusclelover
Well-Known Member
yes sir, that's the one I'm using.
It's not back and forth on the pushrods. It's up and down. Up towards the rocker and down towards the lifter. Get all of that up and down slack out with the cam on the base circle, then tighten "whatever amount" you feel comfortable with for preload.
oldmusclelover
Well-Known Member
that's what I meant, it was late for me. do you have any input on why I would have pressure on those 3 valves? intake 5, intake 7, exhaust 7
I'm probably wrong, but my thought was.....those 3 valves may have gotten oil when I started it the other night? but I'm just guessing there.
Yes. You're getting the valve adjustment wrong. Not being smart here, but that's the only possibility.
oldmusclelover
Well-Known Member
I'm going to go through it again tonight, thanks for the help Rusty.
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
Make sure the lifter is on the base circle of the cam (refer to chart above). To start, make sure you know #1 is firing, and the damper is showing 0°, because 0° could also be when #6 is firing. Make sure you understand the valve layout and the cylinder numbering. Go to #2 intake valve (2nd valve from front on pass. side). Back off the adjuster all the way. Get some shim stock (.010 will do) and place it between the rocker arm and the top of the valve stem (as if adjusting solid lifters). While slowly tightening the adjusting screw with the allen wrench, keep sliding the shim stock around. The moment you feel a little drag on the shim, you know you're at around 0 preload. Take the shim out. Tighten the adjusting screw 1/2 turn or whatever you think is the right amount. Hold the screw in place with the allen wrench and tighten the locknut to lock it down. Now go to #8 exhaust valve (last valve on pass. side). Once you've adjusted that one, turn crankshaft 90°CW. Go to #1 intake valve (2nd valve from front on drivers side). Repeat, repeat, repeat...
Valve layout:
8E---7E
8I---7I
6I---5I
6E---5E
4E---3E
4I---3I
2I---1I
2E---1E
↓Front↓
Valve layout:
8E---7E
8I---7I
6I---5I
6E---5E
4E---3E
4I---3I
2I---1I
2E---1E
↓Front↓
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oldmusclelover
Well-Known Member
thanks 69, much appreciated. I have already started and almost half way through and finding last night's settings to be almost exact as what I'm setting tonight. I am using the push rod "up and down" (thanks Rusty) until there is no slack (making mental note where it is), then backing off and spinning the push rod until I feel the slight "drag". they seem to be very close (minute difference). will try with the shim stock (feeler gauge) and see what they all come to be in the end. thanks much, heading back now.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
oldmusclelover
Well-Known Member
and, yes sir, I did check to be TDC. on compression stroke, watched valves as turned over, the timing mark is on, and the rotor is in the correct position.
oldmusclelover
Well-Known Member
believe he meant from the chart yellow rose, at least that's what I took from it. I knew what he meant, so it's all good. thanks though, we all make mistakes, so it's nice to have someone else keeping an eye out.....and I'm leading the pack on mistakes! LOL
Ok, that's it for me. Some of yall are making this way more complicated than it needs to be. Yall have fun.
oldmusclelover
Well-Known Member
almost finished, thank you for your help, much appreciated and nice to meet you. thanks again Rusty
No problem. Glad I could help.....if I did.
I just cannot stand how some of these guys complex everything all up. I think they'd make a wet dream no fun.
oldmusclelover
Well-Known Member
thanks guys, all of the valves were almost spot on to last night's settings. still had some pressure in the 5/7/7, but set the same. putting the rest back together, then getting to bed at a decent time tonight. thanks so much, I'll let you all know how she runs, and just how long it takes to get some oil moving to quiet it down. might just have a beer while putting the rest back in place. thanks again, the knowledge here is unbelievable! by the way 69, using .010 seemed to give me a 1 1/2 hour clocking early to the actual pre load start point, sound about right to you? see you all tomorrow.
oldmusclelover
Well-Known Member
you definitely helped, I was the only one making it complex. after doing it several times, it really is 'so simple' as you say. I was being WAY too meticulous finding the 'drag' on the spin. really helped when I started looking to take the slack out with the push rod going 'up and down'. you guys ALL helped, I'll let you know how it runs.
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