Did 318 intake, fires but won't start

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Mopar to ya

Mopar to ya

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Weird. I did the intake because it was leaking oil, and badly. The guys at work made a workorder with an environmental clean up charge on it. Pretty simple on a 318. It's in my 83 Ramcharger. I drove it into the shop, replaced the intake gaskets and valve covers, cleaned it all off and changed the oil. I did not remove the distributor. I turn the key and it fires then dies. Over and over fire and die. I checked the fuel flow and the pump is pumping. I tried spraying carb cleaner and that won't keep it running. I checked and rechecked the firing order, and the wires are all correct. I changed the ballast resistor and it changed nothing. Any ideas? It should be a walk in the park. Drive in, do intake,. drive out. It's pissing me off. Any help would be appreciated.
 
I have to think with removing fuel fittings and/or tubing a piece of something is now in the needle/seat. It happens.
 
I'd buy that, and I even brought in another carb just because of that, but it won't run on carb spray either. I'm going to change carbs anyway after work.
 
If it starts and runs then dies when you let go of the key, that's classic ballast symptoms.

Try putting a jumper between the wires that hook to it and see if it will run.

I can't imagine that it's defunked from changing the intake, but......
 
I put in a new ballast, but I will jumper the wires and see what happens. Let you know in 5. I'm still at work, and so is the damn truck!
 
No dice on the jumper wire. I'm beginning to think it's a firing order issue. I never removed the wires from the cap or the cap from the distributor. I also never removed the distributor. I marked the number one tower and wire before removing the wires from the spark plugs. Firing order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 correct? I gave it some gas while cranking and it backfired through the carb.
 
Only one ground wire came off and it is attached. It's an 83 318, everything stock except Performer intake, Edelbrock 600 carb and classy chrome valve covers. The intake and carb were installed last year and were on it when I drove it in Monday.
 
Yes. They were still in their looms, so there was wire memory as well. I'm 99.9% certain it's not a firing order thing, but it acts like it. I'm going to go to TDC, see where the rotor is pointing, and make sure it's all correct. I'm also about to change carburetors.
 
The distributor can only go in two ways and if the drive gear hasn't moved just turn the rotor 180 and try again.....
 
New development. I wasn't seeing any power at the input to the ballast. I messed around with the terminal and got power. I hooked the jumper and had power to the other end of the jumper. I plugged it in to the output and lost all power, in and out. After a few seconds I got power again. I plugged in the ballast and got 12v in and 7v out. It started and died. However, While I was cranking, I held it in crank mode and goosed the gas. It ran and revved just fine until I let off the key, then it died. I checked and there was no in or out power at the ballast. What feeds the ballast? Is there a breaker or fuseable link in line somewhere? Anyone have a wiring diagram?
 
Mopar to ya said:
I plugged it in to the output and lost all power, in and out.
Click to expand...


Is the wire broken just before the terminal on the hot side? Maybe when you changed the ballast it broke.

I'm just throwing stuff out there, strange indeed.

Power comes through the ignition.
 
I wiggled it to see if that was the case. Once I have power, it stays until I crank or jumper the wires. I don't think it's a broken or abraided wire. I'll change the terminal ends anyway, just because there is a lot of corrosion. Ignition box maybe? I probably have another one at home somewhere.
 
I have a wiring diagram for the Dart, but it used a four prong ballast and the Ramcharger uses a 2 prong. Anyone have a wiring diagram?
 
I found intermittent power at the input to the ballast resistor. I was testing it and had no light and when I wiggled the huge mass of wires the light came on. I wiggled it back and forth and the light went on and off. So I know I have a bad wire somewhere in that mass of taped wires. I figured it went to the bulkhead connector and started wiggling the bigger wires one by one and found the problem on the second wire. I haven't repaired it yet, but I wiggled it to a spot where I had a constant light, turned the key and it fired right up and stayed running. I just have to fix the wire or connector, whichever it turns out to be, and I'm good to go. Thanks for all the help everyone!
 
Sounds to me like the "ignition run" terminal going through the bulkhead connector is loose. Also some years /some vehicles have a connector that separates the main part of the engine harness from the bulkhead. Redfish has mentioned this. It is troublesome, usually easy to spot as it's a WHITE connector on / near the engine.
 
Sumbitch,at least you found the problem! I hate chasing electrical gremlins...
 
I finally found time to track down the issue. The interior spade terminal on the bulkhead connector was too loose and not allowing the male end to seat tightly. I could wiggle the wire and it would power off and on. Let me just say that the working quarters were extremely tight. I couldn't get two hands on the wire and almost decided to pull the seat for more room. I finally got hold of it with a long handled, angled needlenose and was able to slide a male terminal in it and then crimp the female end tight around it. I put the bulkhead connector on and pushed the female end on from the inside afterwards. It fits tight and I no longer can wiggle the wires and loose connection. It also starts and runs very nicely. I'm driving it home tomorrow, and to a car show on Monday.
 
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