DIY quarter skins

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danmc77

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I've surfed many Mopar sites on the web over the years, but have never really found any detailed information regarding hanging quarter skins. I have a basic understanding of what I need to do, but I'm still hesitant to do it myself because I'm not sure what i might run into. I'm sure there are plenty of people out there that feel the same.

So, all you body guys and DIY's, this is what I'm looking for - and I think what many others are as well:

-what are the common problems associated with hanging aftermarket skins on a Mopar?

-what is the order of steps when you need to replace trunk extensions and outer wheel houses? What do you cut out first, and in what order is it replaced?

-Do you cut in the middle of the quarter, or do you cut along abody line? If along a body line, do you risk having a not-so-straight body line after the welding is done?

-Does the difference in gauge of metal present any major problems when useing aftermarket skins?

-When drilling out spot welds, is there a preferred size/brand bit you find works best? Do you use weld-through primer between any sandwiched metal and welded areas?

Basically, I'm looking to start a thread that addresses any issue one might encounter, and PHOTOS would go a long way in helping us rookies understand what/where/why/ and when to do something.

Let's make this a long, detailed, step by step thread:read2: It would be awesome if some of you guys walked us through your own experience detailing the prep, cutting, problems, and finish work.
 
this will be a long thread for sure...but worth it. I just finished doing the 1/4's, t/extentions and rear frame on my duster, and one thing i have to say...make sure you buy quality panels!! I have used cheap ones first, and they are flimsy, and once you have them hung...they don't line up very good and there is lots of block sanding and filing to get the correct contours. I will get in to detail on this later as I am at work right now.......working hard!
 
dusterbd451 said:
this will be a long thread for sure...but worth it. I just finished doing the 1/4's, t/extentions and rear frame on my duster, and one thing i have to say...make sure you buy quality panels!! I have used cheap ones first, and they are flimsy, and once you have them hung...they don't line up very good and there is lots of block sanding and filing to get the correct contours. I will get in to detail on this later as I am at work right now.......working hard!
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Awesome!! We should have a sub-forum in the body section just outlining welding and replacing panels. No other web site I visit has anything like that.

I have to replace the rear 2 feet or so frame rails on my Dart, as well as trunk extensions and quarters. If you can give us a step-by-step - that would help tremendously.

I encourage others to post thier work as well, so we can have some different opinions and options. Thanks!
 
Cool thread. I replaced both 1/4s on my duster and let me tell you, it's not fun. (now this is my PERSONAL opinion so if you don't agree I'm cool with that, as a matter of fact I'm just a dude with a wire welder that I borrowed from a friend and fairly cool HOA. I'm a computer geek if that tells you anything :) )

From what I did I learned a couple of things:
1. Aftermarket panels are "close" at best. I got mine from goodmark and it's not like replacing brakes, there is a fair amount of metal work to do at the edges (wheel opening, rocker and door jamb).
2. Replace JUST beyond what is rusted, the more metal you replace the more "matching" of panels you have to do.
3. try to keep the panel that you cut out. as much of it as you can you'll need it for reference and if you are doing both sides, do one at a time so you can match it.
4. TEST FIT EVERYTHING. more than a dozen times, things move when you least expect it. Use clamps, magnets and more clamps to make SURE everything is perfect when you start, because it wont be when you're finished (heat does funny things to metal) if you have to clamp the crap out of it to get it in place... it's not cut right... it will warp when you weld it..
5. welding is an art and I can only weld stick people.... :lol:

Some people like to cut at the body lines and others like to cut in the middle of the panel, having no experience to begin with I chose to cut in the middle and my panel turned out so wavy I had to cut it again and redo one whole side. On the other side I did it pretty close to the body line. Now with that said I am NO welder or body guy but I am determined and I only built a daily driver (I wouldn't attempt a show car). check out my cardomain page in my sig to see what fun I had.
 
Well,here goes.....
1.only replace as much of the panel as you need to.
2.scrape under coating around edges of area to be repaired
3.take pictures,make patterns,save old pieces to verify,make contour guide(if needed)
4.find local bodyman and buy him plenty of beer!
5.plenty of trial fitting....use sharp tin snips(aviation snips) cut area out smaller and then trim it carefully(you can use a straight edge)and tape to make straight lines for cutting.
6.more trial fitting,hammer and dolly...more trial fitting
7.when happy with fit grind/sand areas to be welded to bare metal,use your weld thru primer now.
8.if step 4.is followed it's time for a b double e double r u n and more test fitting and looking it over carefully for its fittment....If step 4 was not followed add band aids and disenfectant spray to the list.
9.practice your welding (spot welding)on some scraps or give body man another "Cold One".
10.you can use self tapping screws to hold the panel/panels in place...if working a long line you need to back up the panels with a block of wood or metal while installing the "screws" so as not to distort the body line.
11.with screws,magnets,a/c duct tape(the metal kind)installed to hold the panel.check it again for fit...several times,again you can use a straight edge for checking it along body lines,contour gauge etc. but check it again to be sure.
12.now if happy with fit,it's time..............for a "Cold One" and maybe a smoke,then check fit again,if still good........ time to weld.I start with a spot weld at one end then one at the opposite end.....then at opposing corners,recheck fit,then one in middle of longest path,then in between those welds,just spot welds,dont get the metal to hot and work your way around the areas to be welded staggaring the spot welds as you go.
13.grind spot welds down smooth,recheck fit,hammer and dolly if needed,check to make sure panel has drain holes etc,seamseal back sides,and grind outer skin for first coat of filler(I reccomend duraglass for a first coat,it is waterproof) then from shape to desired contours and prime and block and paint........Good Luck
 
Nice - how about preferred cutting tools? Do you guys use cutting discs? If so, what brand and size work best? Is there risk of warpage when using a cutoff wheel?

Also - does the use of heat-absorbing putty or wet newspapers made a big difference when tack welding the new panel on?

If the trunk floor is being replaced, alnog with extensions and quarters, do you cut them all out at the same time, or start witht he trunk and work your way out? I figure if it's all cut out at once, you can run into allignment problems if the body sags with all those panels cut out.
 
well here is my story LOL they make a drill with a out side cutting bit just for spot welds. the task you are about to enbark on is not easy this is where you learn paitence you got to have getting mad is not going to work take your time and it will turn out good. i used Year one panels and was not to inpressed the trunk was stamped crooked and the lower rear 1/4 was not molded all the way in the rear so get them some where else i did the trunk first so i had a guide by the outer skins then i replaced the skin i agree with waggin only replace what you have to i also cut the middle not on the body line some are even glueing the panels on now instaed of welding so there is no welding but i couldnt bring myself to do it (old school !) just make sure you dont overheat the metal it will warp easy so take your time. if your going to do the back frame rail when the trunk is out is the best time but you will ahve to support every thing to make sure it don't move while you are doing it use some square tubing and weld it inside to hold every thing square and the tail dont drop on you you good luck
 
Next car that comes through the shop for 1/4s I will do a right up on. We have a Cuda in the shop now but I have a feeling the 1/4s will be welded on by the time I get there in the morning.
 
AdamR said:
Next car that comes through the shop for 1/4s I will do a right up on. We have a Cuda in the shop now but I have a feeling the 1/4s will be welded on by the time I get there in the morning.
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Hey adam - has anybody ever given thought to maybe a sub forum in each major category (body, electrical, tranny, etc.) that is just labeled DIYs? It would be nice to see detailed write ups with pics that you can easily find in it's respective category. I am certainly willing to contribute since I'm doing several unique updates to my projects including grille resto, HID retrofit, body work, upgraded alternator and harness modification, front and rear sway bars, etc.

I think that would be awesome, and I guarantee it would increase membership and traffic to the site.
 
AMD (auto metal direct) is advertising full die stamped quarter's for "A" bodies. these have the factory join along the sail panel and wheel opening/door jamb(very little welding) and look to have nice sharp,defined body lines.
I put on a set goodmark 1/4's for a buddy and wasn't really impressed with the body lines. I will be buying some from AMD next time.

http://www.autometaldirect.com/listing.php?listingid=181&pageid=118

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Man ..... I wish I had seen that before I bought my skin....... Anybody want a skin ????? I would sell it in a heartbeat and buy that piece...
 
on the site moparmusclemagazine.com under the tech section there is a detailed article part one and two called major surgery it is very helpfull it is on page 4. page one has a couple articles on the frame rail repair and replacement the articles are called; Repairing A Rusty B-body Framerail - Framerail Repair and the other is 1969 Dodge Super Bee Framerail Replacement - Properly Framed. They arent abodies but very helpfull as the process is the same lots of detailed pics!
 
Mopar Muscle did a article called Major surgery also that is good for doing 1/4 skins.
 
I will getinto detail and put up pics next week...I am at work still then on vacation for a few days. There are some good ideas here though!
STeve
 
We replaced both quarter panels on my '74 duster with new skins. They were pretty flimsy, probably from china. Once on and in place with sheet-metal screws it wasn't quite like how it should be, especially around the tailpanel area. I was short on time and had no choice but to use filler. It sucks I had to go down that road, however I can say that there is less filler than before the old skin was cut. I should also mention that once welded I had to use more filler to shape the body lines and thats an art in itself. It's a job that is easier said then done. Much harder and frusterating than I expected.

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7duster4 said:
We replaced both quarter panels on my '74 duster with new skins. They were pretty flimsy, probably from china. Once on and in place with sheet-metal screws it wasn't quite like how it should be, especially around the tailpanel area. I was short on time and had no choice but to use filler. It sucks I had to go down that road, however I can say that there is less filler than before the old skin was cut. I should also mention that once welded I had to use more filler to shape the body lines and thats an art in itself. It's a job that is easier said then done. Much harder and frusterating than I expected.
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Looks like my buddy and you almost have the same Duster LOL......
The Goodmark quarters I put on here also had the same China part # sticker(upper left of pic)I think they are all made in China and Goodmark just puts their own part # on them......I agree, had to fix up the body lines.[-(

14's.jpg


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except for the AMD stuff, It all comes from the same place. We call Goodmark, Goodluck at the shop.
 
Interesting thread !!!! I am shopping around for rear 1/4 for my Barracuda 68 fastback we were going to glue the 1/4 at the top with some stuff that the local bodyshop uses its approved by the vehicle repairers comes in a double tube like silicon but you have 20 mins or so before it goes off,
the resoning behind this way of doing it was that it leaves no gaps between spot welds for dampness to get in then all you do is weld each end front and back ,this bonding process is very strong if it is done right what do you guys think is it done in USA ? Im in the UK so things are different here but gas is still 12 bucks a gallon !!!! oil prices are down whats going on ?????
 
7duster4 said:
We replaced both quarter panels on my '74 duster with new skins. They were pretty flimsy, probably from china. Once on and in place with sheet-metal screws it wasn't quite like how it should be, especially around the tailpanel area. I was short on time and had no choice but to use filler. It sucks I had to go down that road, however I can say that there is less filler than before the old skin was cut. I should also mention that once welded I had to use more filler to shape the body lines and thats an art in itself. It's a job that is easier said then done. Much harder and frusterating than I expected.
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aint that the truth. i put skins on my 69 i got the rest of the body real nice, i was getting the car ready to paint for my wedding, when i realized just how bad the lines were on cheng shing skins. i threw i nthe towel. it sat for over 2 years un touched. then one dayi got a bug up my ***, started playing with it and remembered why i stopped. my buddy took it on as a summer job while off from school and finished it up and painted it for me. it wasnt cheap but its done. they arent bad to do, and if you do a good job you will still save a bunch of money if you pay some one to do the mud work. just dont expect oem quality. they do use the panel adhesive here. i get mixed reviews. i am a welder so i had no choice. my friend that did the body and paint used to be a body guy, he doesnt know squat about welding but doesnt like the glue.
 
The glue is used on a lot of new cars. I dont think I would use it one a 1/4 skin. Im not sure how it will hold up against body flex when you start making some power.

I would weld the seam, grind it down and cover it with lead, then use a little plastic over that. On the back I cover ther weld with a bit of seam sealer then the heavy factory type under coating.
 
Good morning, I was just wondering if anyone has used the AMD stuff? They seem to be pretty good and I was wondering if anyone recommends them?
 
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