Don't understand the obsession with ARP bolts

-
Mopar to ya

Mopar to ya

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 17, 2011
Messages
3,047
Reaction score
206
Location
Rock Creek, Minnesota
My new 408 was put together with ARP fasteners. This means that I got to go out and by a set of standard size 1/4 long 12 point sockets and a set of 3/8 short 12 points sockets. Oh boy, Snap On had a sale on them. I can't see why you would want a 12 point bolt. It's easy enough to strip a stuck hex bolt, it has to be easier on these. Why does everyone always seem to want to use these, or go spouting off that their motor is "all ARP fasteners"? Am I missing something?
 
just one of the many different headache bolts made these days ...

torx is another stupid style that i cuss ...

metric is very high on the list ....

I am sure there are others but i cant think of them at this moment
 
The quality and strength of ARP fasteners is the best in the biz. They use a twelve point fastener for a variety of reasons and since you're buying quality tools, you'll never have an issue.

Think: twelve contact points allow much more variety of access in cramped working quarters (Like aircraft and race cars).

In butter bolts, I run and hide from twelve-point. The precision and extra strength of ARP means the sockets fit better and the metal on the fastener won't strip. And ARP mean your mill will live longer and have fewer problems than with stock style bolts. It's worth it. Better, more consistent clamping on head gaskets, rod bolts, etc. always pays off.

Besides, filling out the tool box is never a bad thing. ;)
 
And I've never had a problem with Torx. My rule of thumb is that if can strip out (screws, phillips, allens, etc) then I get the best tools for that. I don't have trouble. The guys that cuss them the most are the guys with cheap S**t tools.
 
Heck cheap China sockets work OK, you don't need Snap On and they APR sells both 12 point and hex nuts and bolts

Yeah I used to be a believer in high end tools but these cheap junk tools work ok if you don't use them too often and check the fit before torquing
 
I love ARP fasteners. I use them for everything and I try to replace everything that isn't ARP. They are very tough bolts and I haven't stripped one. I use Craftsman 12 point sockets/tools. not a problem here...
 
I bought the ARP kit for my 360 and could only use half of them because of the length... Money well spent. Only ones I like are there head bolt kit because of the smaller socket used along with space around the valve springs.
 
dodgedifferent2 said:
just one of the many different headache bolts made these days ...
I am sure there are others but i cant think of them at this moment
Click to expand...

I can. The Germans and their damned triple square, inverted and regular.

I swear, having to go out and fill half a tool box drawer with the damned things just to work on German cars is a pain in the a**.
 
LOL!
One word,
STRONG!!! Any mechanic should know that!
ARP has both style heads. You should have requested 6 point!
 
ramenth said:
I can. The Germans and their damned triple square, inverted and regular.

I swear, having to go out and fill half a tool box drawer with the damned things just to work on German cars is a pain in the a**.
Click to expand...

I totally agre with you. I had to buy special tool sot do the clutch in my AWD Audi I had. That sucked trying to find them locally.
 
i know the above guys seemed to hit it already, but strength and quality is what they are all about...their middle road rod studs handle 700 HP and 7000 RPM....try that with a stock bolt.
 
The twelve point looks cool. It never caused me a problem because half of the damn sockets in the Craftsman set I started out with were 12 point. LOL

Theoretically you've got better surface engagement with 12 point so its less likely to strip. I don't like them on Mopar LA intake manifolds because the 4 innermost bolts tend to need a wrench rather than a socket so often.

There's a company called Totally Stainless that ships stainless ARP bolts (in whatever head size you want), but unlike the actual ARP small block kit, they actually include the right size bolts.

Of course the ARP stuff is way stronger than the stocker stuff, and the head bolts are a no-brainer. especially since the smaller head makes them easier to work with, especially if you've got beefy valve springs.
 
LXguy said:
Theoretically you've got better surface engagement with 12 point so its less likely to strip.
Click to expand...

The wise man has spoken. The more contact points there are, the greater torque ability it has. Provided of course, that cheap chinkese tools are not in use.
 
LXguy said:
There's a company called Totally Stainless that ships stainless ARP bolts (in whatever head size you want), but unlike the actual ARP small block kit, they actually include the right size bolts.
Click to expand...

Since you mention stainless, is it worth using the stainless ones? Or is chromoly better? Not sure what all they come in other than that. Is stainless not as strong?
 
Some times a bolt is just a bolt. Other times you need the good sh$t. :prayer:
 

Attachments

  • ls.jpg
    106.2 KB · Views: 436
  • ls 2.jpg
    99.1 KB · Views: 426
72Dodge said:
And also, are you guys saying that with an ARP kit like this one:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-144-3606/

that half the bolts are too long (?) to use? So you're paying for stuff that isn't even right for the intended application?! Please clarify, I'd hate to waste money like that.
Click to expand...

Hacksaw can fix to long. To short is a another story though. :banghead:


I cut a bolt three times and it was still to short. :D
 
i thought 12 point was better at not stripping under torque. Just like more axle splines is better.
 
Times have changed, China tools can work. Yes the expensive tools are better and if you use them everyday the way to go but I rather buy the expensive bolts and use cheap wenches on them vs cheap bolts and expensive wenches.

A good mechanic doesn't let cheap tools stop him, slow him down, yes.

We got a store here with all cheap *** tools, I got a bunch of 1/2 inch extensions years ago and have not broke one yet. Breaker bars, extensions all work regardless of the name, IMO Sockets are a maybe, those I like name brand stuff
 
LXguy said:
There's a company called Totally Stainless that ships stainless ARP bolts (in whatever head size you want), but unlike the actual ARP small block kit, they actually include the right size bolts.
Click to expand...
They may sell stainless bolts, and they may sell stainless ARP bolts, but just because it's the right size in stainless does mean that you should buy it in stainless. For valve covers and stuff, it's fine, but don't try it with something like rod bolts.

dodge freak said:
Times have changed, China tools can work. Yes the expensive tools are better and if you use them everyday the way to go but I rather buy the expensive bolts and use cheap wenches on them vs cheap bolts and expensive wenches.
Click to expand...

So you'll risk rounding off expensive fasteners with cheap tools? Sounds like a bad strategy to me.

dodge freak said:
A good mechanic doesn't let cheap tools stop him, slow him down, yes.
Click to expand...
A good mechanic will only let them slow him down long enough to go find good tools. He'll know that rounded fastener, scratched paint, or busted knuckle is not worth it.
 
i have a shop filled with high quality tools but when i crawl under a tractor covered in cow s$#t to replace who knows what and i stumble into a torx head bolt ... cuss at trying to get the crap out of the inside so i can spin the bolt


kind of like the brake calipers on a rusted out truck ,.... and stuff jammed in real good....

oh wait people only work on clean stuff.... because an engineer told them it works better.....

12 point is only as good as they say ... but when it slips or strips it still breaks your arm when trying to tighten a nut to 250 foot pounds ... they all seem the same
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top