double walled drive shaft?

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RJK3

RJK3

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Dropped my drive shaft off to get shortened a couple days ago, guy calls me this morning and tells me they cut it open and it has a "tube within a tube" and they can't shorten it. But will build me one for another $80...$220 total. Has anyone heard of this before? Or are they FOS? Shaft came out of 73' Duster /6 car.
 
If you don't believe him about it being double walled there is an easy enough solution....go look for your self....
 
Did they cut it at the front or back? I've heard there is something inside them on the front. That's why you have to do the shortening at the rear.
 
I intend to look for my self....when I'm off work.
Thanks for the suggestion though, I might not have thought of that. Smh. I was just wondering if anyone else has encountered this issue. Would it be standard practice to shorten from the rear? They are supposed to be a reputable shop...
 
The inner tube is held in there with 2 or 3 rubber rings around it.

I found out for myself when I shortened the DS myself on my '73 Dart.
 
Yes it is true. Had the same thing happen to me, went to the shop and they showed me. The shop I went to make me 1 out of an old shaft they had there. It was less than $100 tatal though.
 
It's been a while but 220 sounds high to me.
I'm thinking reuse the ends, piece of tube, weld and balance.
Too much.
But I may be delusional again.
 
Wow, they don't know how to take that out..... Amazing.

And it can even be left in there and cut back to clear the weld yoke, i am never amazed at the lack of competence anymore.

$220 for a new shaft joint to joint using non china pieces means they're charging nothing for the labor & welds.

You can't re-use the weld yokes from detroit to spicer tube unless they machine bushings and thats not gonna be $220 either. Detroit purposely used different tube than everyone else.
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Slant valiant had that shaft as well as 6 mustangs. That rubber in there is under very high pressure, ie it was injected and cured as states. I cut mine almost out and while I was drinking a beer, it let loose, split clean and almost made me drop my beer, but no quite. made a big pop though.
 
They don't sound like a very competent shop, or they are trying to rip you off. I had a driveshaft (same as yours) from my /6 '75 Scamp shortened when I swapped in the 8.75 rear. The guy told me about the double walled with rubber, but he's seen enough Mopar shafts and was able to do it - $60 out the door.
Balanced, no vibration, no issues at all.

Take the shaft somewhere else......
 
Sure enough, it looked like about 10" long with some type of rubber cap on the end. Odd.
So I've got a new shaft end to end with Spicer joints.
 
I would just as soon "Not" have a rubber shaft. I've seen a few of these fail, rotating within the two shafts so that the joints are "out of clock."
 
RJK3 said:
Sure enough, it looked like about 10" long with some type of rubber cap on the end. Odd.
So I've got a new shaft end to end with Spicer joints.
Click to expand...


BigBlockMopar said:
We're talking about two different designs here now.
Click to expand...

Yes, I believe RJ is talking about the older 65/ older "ball and trunnion."

..........the rusty damn thing at the top of the photo

Ball%20and%20Trunion%20partSmall.jpg


That is not what the OP has
 
I don't think the B&T driveshaft has been talked about, but I ment the 2piece 'pressed together' driveshaft as seen in later '70s cars, where the rubber can actually be seen from the outside, and the (perhaps) earlier version with just an extra piece of tubing inside the outer driveshaft-shell.
 
67Dart273 said:
I would just as soon "Not" have a rubber shaft. I've seen a few of these fail, rotating within the two shafts so that the joints are "out of clock."
Click to expand...

You won't find those in a Dart, unless someone was really dollar stupid and took one out of a J/Y and had it modified to fit.

.
 
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