Doug Headers & ProComp Speed Master Aluminum Heads

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Raul

Raul

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Anyone have Speed Master ProComp Heads with Doug Headers? If so, did they fit without much issues? I keep hearing they have better ground clearness than TTI Headers
 
I do. They fit fine. The hole alignment was tight to the head but they went on without modifications. I also installed mine with the engine out (Kevco Pan) of the car with the K-memeber, Starter, and trans installed. I also used Polyurethane biscuit mounts. I will note that Doug's does not send enough Bolts and washers for heads that don't use studs on the ends like stock. If you need 4 more I happen to have some.

If you have a 4 speed check the clearance to the bellhousing, mine had ears at the 3 and 9 o'clock position that interfered (as did my aluminum TKO bell) and you'll need to modify the Z-bar.

Do you have PS? That's an issue with those headers and I can explain more if you do.
 
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dano said:
I do. They fit fine. The hole alignment was tight to the head but they went on without modifications. I also installed mine with the engine out (Kevco Pan) of the car with the K-memeber, Starter, and trans installed. I also used Polyurethane biscuit mounts. I will note that Doug's does not send enough Bolts and washers for heads that don't use studs on the ends like stock. If you need 4 more I happen to have some.

If you have a 4 speed check the clearance to the bellhousing, mine had ears at the 3 and 9 o'clock position that interfered (as did my aluminum TKO bell) and you'll need to modify the Z-bar.

Do you have PS? That's an issue with those headers and I can explain more if you do.
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Not to highjack the thread but I do have power steering and I was interested in buying Dougs headers.
 
doogievlg said:
Not to highjack the thread but I do have power steering and I was interested in buying Dougs headers.
Click to expand...

Well in my case the coupler would not clear the last tube at all, it would hit. What i read was some people shim the steering box over, use an aftermarket U-joint coupler, or dent the tube. I didn't like any of those options. I ended up (to the tune of $600) bought a Flaming River drop in B-body steering column and other that having to cut the shaft shorter, it all bolted in. The universal cleared and all is good and I gained tilt. I didn't exactly want o shell out $600 for this but I get a sliding steering shaft, tilt and don't have to shim the box or beat the tube. I have found where people had no issue with the stock coupler fitting so just be ready if it does not. I will say the stock steering wheel will fit the Flaming fiver column if you grind out the key spline but the fit between them leaves gaps.
 
dano said:
Well in my case the coupler would not clear the last tube at all, it would hit. What i read was some people shim the steering box over, use an aftermarket U-joint coupler, or dent the tube. I didn't like any of those options. I ended up (to the tune of $600) bought a Flaming River drop in B-body steering column and other that having to cut the shaft shorter, it all bolted in. The universal cleared and all is good and I gained tilt. I didn't exactly want o shell out $600 for this but I get a sliding steering shaft, tilt and don't have to shim the box or beat the tube. I have found where people had no issue with the stock coupler fitting so just be ready if it does not. I will say the stock steering wheel will fit the Flaming fiver column if you grind out the key spline but the fit between them leaves gaps.
Click to expand...

Thanks Dano,

  1. I've got no power steering, and no Z-bar as I switched to a hydraulic clutch with an aftermarket Tremic 5-Spd. I'm not too sure of the new bellhousing that came with the transmission but I'll take note of it. How is the ground clearance with these headers? The headers I have now, I think I got them from (speed daddy) hang low and if I'm not careful, scrape the ground. Do the Doug Headers tuck in nicely? And also, do you think they'd be easier to install with the engine installed in the car as opposed to how you've dropped the engine with them on. We're there any issues with the steering linkage and is the regular starter, and full size oil filter good to go with these headers?
 
dano said:
Well in my case the coupler would not clear the last tube at all, it would hit. What i read was some people shim the steering box over, use an aftermarket U-joint coupler, or dent the tube. I didn't like any of those options. I ended up (to the tune of $600) bought a Flaming River drop in B-body steering column and other that having to cut the shaft shorter, it all bolted in. The universal cleared and all is good and I gained tilt. I didn't exactly want o shell out $600 for this but I get a sliding steering shaft, tilt and don't have to shim the box or beat the tube. I have found where people had no issue with the stock coupler fitting so just be ready if it does not. I will say the stock steering wheel will fit the Flaming fiver column if you grind out the key spline but the fit between them leaves gaps.
Click to expand...

Could the header have been dented enough to clear it?
 
Ground clearance is better than the low hanging field plow type headers. I had FlowTech's before these and smashed them up. It these or TTI's for street cars in my opinion, as far as headers go. I have a mini starter from the Magnum, it clears nicely, I think you can use a full size one. I'll never install headers with the motor in if you want to keep you paint nice on both the headers and the car. I happen to be doing engine work and the TKO install so that's why it was all out for me. Once it was all assembled and on dollys it was 10 min to get it lifted up and all bolted in. I installed the steering linage after the engine and headers were in, no tubes to pass through. I switched to a canton oil plate from a 90 adapter. with the adapter I had to run a short filter. I think with the Canton plate I still need to run a shorter filter but it's easier to get off than the 90. I'll see if I can get a picture this evening.

Check your TKO bell, mine had the same ears, I removed them.
 
doogievlg said:
Could the header have been dented enough to clear it?
Click to expand...

Possibly, but I didn't want to dent them. It would clear, until you turned it. Some have bent the tube over with a come-a-long, but again I felt this would compromise the finish and crack the welds.
 
dano said:
Possibly, but I didn't want to dent them. It would clear, until you turned it. Some have bent the tube over with a come-a-long, but again I felt this would compromise the finish and crack the welds.
Click to expand...

I got a feeling I am in for some serious head aches.
 
dano said:
Yes and No. I went from manual to power. Having power outweighed the issues. There were things I was not going to do to make it work, I found a way.
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My big problem is that I have the spool mounts so it’s a bit more difficult to make adjustments.
 
doogievlg said:
My big problem is that I have the spool mounts so it’s a bit more difficult to make adjustments.
Click to expand...

All I can say is see it and try. Like I said, some have had issues others have not. They do make Poly spool mounts.
 
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