dougs headers

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mr memi :cheers:is what i need to see,,,they are dougs arnt they,,how did you re route your cables,,how hard was it
 
cheers hemi ,,,i think by looking it maybe easier to drop the k member to fit these ,,im not looking forward to it
 
mr hemi what trans have you if i may ask
 
I have a set on my 65 Barracuda, it is not power steering though. They are close to everything. You do have to take the steering linkage apart, drop out the starter, and it has been my experience that the big factory starter offers more clearance than does a mini starter, not much but some. Droping the "K" member does no good, the drivers side collector straddles (2 tubes on eather side) the torsion bar. Taking the "T" bar out does no good cuz the hex will not pass thru where the bar has to go.

I ran into clearance issues (minor) at the steering box coupling (dimple a tube), steering linkage (tie rod ); drivers side; rubbing on a tube as it passed under.

Lastly, and this is very important: At a minimum, take the slip tubes out once a year, every other year, buff the oxidation off and coat them with never-sieze, even if you assembled them with never-sieze. Over time they will oxidize and bond themselves together and then you can't get them off/appart!!!

Other than that, they're great headers.
 
Do I understand you correctly that the big factory starter fits better than the mini starter?

Thanks!

JBurch said:
I have a set on my 65 Barracuda, it is not power steering though. They are close to everything. You do have to take the steering linkage apart, drop out the starter, and it has been my experience that the big factory starter offers more clearance than does a mini starter, not much but some. Droping the "K" member does no good, the drivers side collector straddles (2 tubes on eather side) the torsion bar. Taking the "T" bar out does no good cuz the hex will not pass thru where the bar has to go.

I ran into clearance issues (minor) at the steering box coupling (dimple a tube), steering linkage (tie rod ); drivers side; rubbing on a tube as it passed under.

Lastly, and this is very important: At a minimum, take the slip tubes out once a year, every other year, buff the oxidation off and coat them with never-sieze, even if you assembled them with never-sieze. Over time they will oxidize and bond themselves together and then you can't get them off/appart!!!

Other than that, they're great headers.
Click to expand...
 
YUP!! The difference is small, yet noticable. When I first got them (10 years ago), had a big starter on, picked up a mini starter for weight reduction and found that it was closer to the tubes. It is easier though to install or remove than a big starter, ie acess to the top mounting nut, and battery cables.

With these headers it's pick and choose your battles, where you win in one area, you lose in another.

If you put them on, just be sure to knotch the passenger side of the tranny crossmember for pipe clearance so you can tuck the pipe up.
 
see document...PerTronix Inc. sent it to me.
 

Attachments

  • D450 Installation Instructions.pdf
    200.7 KB · Views: 190
I just read those instructions. Man, you better hope you don't have to pull the motor some day. A lot of work to get them on. Where does the welding come in? I don't understand the slip joint they are talking about. Do the pipes get welded after they are fit in the slip joint or does it form some kind of air tight seal in the slip joint?
I would like to replace my factory manifolds, but it almost seems like it's not worth the effort..I dont know?
 
Boy, that d side header looks like a mess to install. I dont know if having the motor out would make that any easier. I couldn't install my motor with the factory manifolds installed. Good luck with yours.
 
thanks guys for the info,them instructions make for good reading
 
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