la2alle
Bad Fish 65
Where can I pick up the rubber boot on the front of a Barracuda driveshaft 1965.
Driveshaft 65 question!
- Thread starter la2alle
- Start date
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Steves65
Well-Known Member
you can get one from these guys,
http://www.robertsmotorparts.com/store/
Gary Roberts Jr.
Roberts Motor Parts Inc.
17 Prospect St
West Newbury, Ma 01985
978-363-5407 ph.
978-363-2026 fax
(800)-231-3180 Orders
http://www.robertsmotorparts.com/store/
Gary Roberts Jr.
Roberts Motor Parts Inc.
17 Prospect St
West Newbury, Ma 01985
978-363-5407 ph.
978-363-2026 fax
(800)-231-3180 Orders
65cudalover
Well-Known Member
My suggestion is this, having gone through that deal on my 65 formula S do not fight the original old style antique drive shaft, unless you are an original restoration wanting to keep it so. I changed my drive shaft to a modern U joint for reality and simplicity of repair and safety. I also had a new driveshaft made for the car by a local shop for a very reasonable cost. Again as I say often with this car safety first for a car you are going to drive on todays roads with many sad drivers and speeds we want to be able to control the car and stop it properly! It is for sure a personal choice, but our early a bodies don't have the high dollar value to go over the top on originality unless it is a rare one. So make it safe and drive for fun! Also Parts so easy to work on if done right the first time.
65Cudalover
65Cudalover
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
You can buy just the boot on ebay ~$40. You have to take the "ball & trunnion" apart and work the boot over the pin, unless you press the pin out. I haven't done it, only read the story. Some people report using a 2-piece VW driveshaft boot repair. I would do that if the internals are OK, especially if still on the car.
You didn't ask, but I'll rant. You can get the whole rebuild kit for ~$170 on ebay. I am much too cheap. I bought 2 kits on ebay for ~$100 ea, and later got one for $68, so am set for life on my 2 early-A's. I was tempted to buy another just to flip on you guys, but it was gone a few months later. BTW, I have a whole driveshaft w/ nice joint from a 64 Belvedere (larger than our A's, 4"D I recall). It was sitting in the car at PickNPull, so an easy pick. I could probably make an adapter to bolt it up, plus have a shop shorten it, then have a stronger driveshaft.
These joints are not extremely rare. The same size joint was used in 67-81 Jeeps w/ standard shift, 67-70 Dodge A100 trucks and A108 vans. Jeep guys pioneered the custom swap to a standard U-joint + sliding joint years ago, which 65cudalover and others did. You can read up on Jeep sites. Below are some PN's. I bought the GMB one last on ebay and compared it to the Detroit kits. Looks identical, other than no "Detroit" stamp on the sheet-metal cover, which one can't see installed anyway. Most PN's are no longer in stock, but do pop up occasionally on ebay, so search when you can:
NORS R67 universal joint repair package for most 1963 to 1965 A-body models with 3.625" diameter, 3.750" long ball & trunion (Detroit) style driveshaft. Includes main housing, all internal parts, boot, clamps, etc.
Detroit R-65
UJ AD6500R
Spicer 5-1406X or 5-1407X
Precision 207R or 217R
GMB 210-1407
Neapco 7-4267, 7-4268, D-4267R, or D-4267XR
Borg-Warner 114-67AR
A.E.C. AE-67AR
Alloy JR67A
Lempco U455R
Pilot C6700AR
Republic AD-6700AR
TRW 20122
Wesc D67A
Zeller MR-67A
You didn't ask, but I'll rant. You can get the whole rebuild kit for ~$170 on ebay. I am much too cheap. I bought 2 kits on ebay for ~$100 ea, and later got one for $68, so am set for life on my 2 early-A's. I was tempted to buy another just to flip on you guys, but it was gone a few months later. BTW, I have a whole driveshaft w/ nice joint from a 64 Belvedere (larger than our A's, 4"D I recall). It was sitting in the car at PickNPull, so an easy pick. I could probably make an adapter to bolt it up, plus have a shop shorten it, then have a stronger driveshaft.
These joints are not extremely rare. The same size joint was used in 67-81 Jeeps w/ standard shift, 67-70 Dodge A100 trucks and A108 vans. Jeep guys pioneered the custom swap to a standard U-joint + sliding joint years ago, which 65cudalover and others did. You can read up on Jeep sites. Below are some PN's. I bought the GMB one last on ebay and compared it to the Detroit kits. Looks identical, other than no "Detroit" stamp on the sheet-metal cover, which one can't see installed anyway. Most PN's are no longer in stock, but do pop up occasionally on ebay, so search when you can:
NORS R67 universal joint repair package for most 1963 to 1965 A-body models with 3.625" diameter, 3.750" long ball & trunion (Detroit) style driveshaft. Includes main housing, all internal parts, boot, clamps, etc.
Detroit R-65
UJ AD6500R
Spicer 5-1406X or 5-1407X
Precision 207R or 217R
GMB 210-1407
Neapco 7-4267, 7-4268, D-4267R, or D-4267XR
Borg-Warner 114-67AR
A.E.C. AE-67AR
Alloy JR67A
Lempco U455R
Pilot C6700AR
Republic AD-6700AR
TRW 20122
Wesc D67A
Zeller MR-67A
la2alle
Bad Fish 65
Thanks to all who took the time to respond!! Happy Turkey day to
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
Nice info on the part numbers.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
I found these posts:
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads...ain=7733040&Words=+Bull1tt&topic=&Search=true
http://www.earlycuda.org/tech/ujoint.htm
http://stores.atlaschrys.com/-strse-697/1960-1961-1962-1963/Detail.bok
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=361547&sid=0eb9fafbbd8e64a43e69c0dd57f461e4
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Number=6746183
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Number=6626959
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=128552
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=156112
http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/Left-Column/Antique-Classics.html
I wouldn't give up on your ball & trunion U-joint yet. It is actually stronger than traditional cross U-joints. They were used in in trucks and vans with bigger engines than ours.
If anyone does decide to change, the last link is a place that will make a new driveshaft with a slip section.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads...ain=7733040&Words=+Bull1tt&topic=&Search=true
http://www.earlycuda.org/tech/ujoint.htm
http://stores.atlaschrys.com/-strse-697/1960-1961-1962-1963/Detail.bok
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=361547&sid=0eb9fafbbd8e64a43e69c0dd57f461e4
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Number=6746183
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Number=6626959
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=128552
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=156112
http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/Left-Column/Antique-Classics.html
I wouldn't give up on your ball & trunion U-joint yet. It is actually stronger than traditional cross U-joints. They were used in in trucks and vans with bigger engines than ours.
If anyone does decide to change, the last link is a place that will make a new driveshaft with a slip section.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
67Dart273,
I am sure a lot of people wonder about the "stronger" claim, and I might have been stretching. I base that on several claims in the links above (perhaps by the same guy) that he ran a 440 hard and never had the front Detroit joint break, whereas he had failures of his rear U-joint and even the differential yoke of his 8.75" rear-end. Still, perhaps the front joint sees less forces. Does the rear tend to break/wear more even when both are standard cross type joints? I don't know. It does seem that if they worked fine in trucks (318's), vans, and Jeeps, the later known as driveshaft destroyers, they should survive a long time in a light A-body w/ slant or 273.
I like the idea of putting the sliding component outside of the transmission. It always bothered me that the yoke slides in and out of the seal, dragging grime with it (my 69 Dart, 65 Newport). My guess is that lower cost was the main driver for the design change. My 80's Mercedes have a fixed flange transmission output like my 64 & 65 A's. However, they use rubber flex disks for axial motion and maybe anti-vibration (not terribly reliable).
I am sure a lot of people wonder about the "stronger" claim, and I might have been stretching. I base that on several claims in the links above (perhaps by the same guy) that he ran a 440 hard and never had the front Detroit joint break, whereas he had failures of his rear U-joint and even the differential yoke of his 8.75" rear-end. Still, perhaps the front joint sees less forces. Does the rear tend to break/wear more even when both are standard cross type joints? I don't know. It does seem that if they worked fine in trucks (318's), vans, and Jeeps, the later known as driveshaft destroyers, they should survive a long time in a light A-body w/ slant or 273.
I like the idea of putting the sliding component outside of the transmission. It always bothered me that the yoke slides in and out of the seal, dragging grime with it (my 69 Dart, 65 Newport). My guess is that lower cost was the main driver for the design change. My 80's Mercedes have a fixed flange transmission output like my 64 & 65 A's. However, they use rubber flex disks for axial motion and maybe anti-vibration (not terribly reliable).
grimreaper
Cross Member
Back in the late 60s my uncles made a haystack mover out of an old truck and it had the ball and trunnnion driveshaft behind a 413 with two transmissions. In low gear a snail could crawl away from it but it could easily move a big heavy haystack. One day they hit a rock with the driveshaft and it ripped apart right next to the rear yoke. They happened to have a driveshaft with regular u-joints from a International truck and a flange that was easily modified to adapt it so the stackmover updated to regular cross style u-joints with the splines in the shaft. It failed three front u-joints before my uncles got another ball & trunnion from a junk yard and had it shortened to fit. As far as I know it never had another u-joint / driveshaft issue until they started using the giant cube bails. That is what convinced me on the strength of the ball and trunnion!
Does your mercedes have an independent rear suspension? I have never seen the rubber flex coupler attached to a rear axle that moved with the suspension. I know that if you do a hard reverse launch those couplers go boom and come apart.
clifcuda65
Old Mopar Geezer
After the loss of several drive shaft boots over the many years I have owned my 65 cuda... I gave up replacing them and went to the spicer unit and never had any problems and was quite happy with it. But, with that said, I ended up going to a regular slip yoke setup recently when I installed a newer style Passon aluminum 833 (another long story) that I had laying around... (was going to be in a race 63 Dart, but sold the car)
Still have my both older (pictured) drive shafts (note that you local Arizona 63-65 Valiant/Barracuda peeps) available
Just saying...
Still have my both older (pictured) drive shafts (note that you local Arizona 63-65 Valiant/Barracuda peeps) available
Just saying...
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Yes, my 84 & 85 300D's do have IRS, so maybe that is where they take care of axial motion. Makes since because there is a center bearing that locks axial position before the front rubber disk. Those rubber disks fail and sometimes turn the driveshaft into a pole-vault stick, or a cutter than slices right thru the transmission tunnel. With our U-joints, either ball & trunnion or standard, all the pieces usually stay together, at least from the normal needle bearing failure mode.
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