Drum Brake ????? seems to me

[sleeper-oem]

Hello I have a 72 valiant that i just got. I have a new SSBC (A153) kit for front brake conversion. I had the kit for a car with 10 inch drums that i dont have anymore. My new car has 9 " manual drums. The kit says for 10" OE. I want to use kit. So question is

Can i use 10 inch manual brake system from another car and what parts do i need for front and rear. I imagine I will need to switch rear to 10 for proper function and is this possible.

Thanks a million

 

[67Dart273]

You know when you guys post this stuff it would sure help if you'd post a link so we don't have to go Gargoyle it up

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SSB-A153/?rtype=1

I don't know if 9/ 10" spindles are different, but I would think if they are, you could redrill the caliper bracket. First thing I'd do is contact the guys who made it

I donnoooo SSBC says right on their site "must have" 10" brakes:

http://www.ssbrakes.com/commerce/detail/?nPID=8556

 

[sleeper-oem]

I understand that i will need 10 inch drums and i assume that once a vehicle was switched over to 10 inch drums it would work because its design is for a 10 inch spindle O.E system. I really wanted to know is if its possible and whata parts it requires past UCA,s and spindles and if any one has done it. SSBC does the CYB plee and wont say yes. I see no reason why it wouldnt once it was a 10 inch system. I wish i would have saved those parts but who know cant store everything. Just dont want to waste 1100$.

 

[BillGrissom]

Yes, the spindles are very different, even the shape of the upper arms on each. The hubs are different (smaller bearings in 9"). I have cars w/ both 9" and 10" drums and have rebuilt the suspensions and brakes in both. The upper and lower control arms are identical. Both ball joints and the steering links are the same too, but check rockauto to be sure. What you will need is 10" spindles and 10" hubs. You don't need the drum backing plates, which will save shipping weight.

The upper ball joint stud pulls out fairly easily by beating a pickle fork in the gap. If so, buy new polyurethane dust seals, which come in pretty colors. There is also the "two-hammer method" (from a Mustang site), but didn't work for me last time. You shouldn't need to remove the lower ball joint stud from the LCA (a bit tricky), just unbolt the ball joint from the spindle. Of course, relieve all tension on the torsion bar first and make sure the LCA is hanging freely. Support the car on the frame rails.

 

[sleeper-oem]

thanks Bill i will look for some hubs spindles any luck i will get a good price.