DYNO disaster ? Help

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I think you ran out cam and or springs on the topend
and might try a longer pump shot on the bottom if you
feel everything else is set right.
I also think the carbs too big.
 
Everybody's got an opinion, but you asked, so...

If it were me, I would go with a Holley 4150. I LOVE the edelbrocks for a nearly stock engine, but not when you're making some power. Find somebody local who you can trust and have them help you tune the carb.

I would also go MSD box and distributor.

First though, start with the basics. Are you running out of fuel? Did you open the Edelbrock and set the floats?

Lastly, I think a lot of guys reading this missed the fact that $8500 was not for just the engine, it was more than that. Don't be too discouraged, it just needs some tweaking.
 
pilotsf said:
what converter do you suggest.
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A custom is really the only way to go but I am fortunate enough to have a local covertor shop that builds them for around $200 up to $500 for a billet with anti ballon plates.The problem with off the shelf is they are a one size fits all and have cheap parts and a stall rating based off an avearge 350 h.p. chevy 350,thats why they have an identical advertised stall for all covertors regardless of make.Find out where your foot brake stall is at and the flash and see if its where it needs to be,I would want at a 2,500 flash with setup and around a 2k foot brake minimum.Also check to see what rpm your going though the traps then you can use an online claculator to see how much slip is in the convertor,if these check out I would look elsewhere for benefits in the suspension.
 
fourspeed said:
Everybody's got an opinion, but you asked, so...

If it were me, I would go with a Holley 4150. I LOVE the edelbrocks for a nearly stock engine, but not when you're making some power. Find somebody local who you can trust and have them help you tune the carb.

I would also go MSD box and distributor.

First though, start with the basics. Are you running out of fuel? Did you open the Edelbrock and set the floats?

Lastly, I think a lot of guys reading this missed the fact that $8500 was not for just the engine, it was more than that. Don't be too discouraged, it just needs some tweaking.
Click to expand...

There is a great carb place here. Famous in the area, but 190$ hour
holly is sounding better and better.
Thanks

mopr5(2).jpg
 
JoeDust451 said:
Bingo!! Thats why i'll NEVER waiste my $$ on that crap, yeah i said crap lol, all i care about are "time slips", for the most part, they don't lie, i could give a rats azz what HP i have, if it runs the way i feel it should run, who cares, i ran high 10s in my Duster, i couldn't count the # of people who have ask me, how much HP you running, i'd say...."don't know, don't care" lol.
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THIS
 
To get more horse power you need to raise the comp. up to 10.5 to 1 for steet use.See if you have a buddy that has a holly carb.aroud 750cc you can use after you raise the comp.It looks like your 3 in. strait pipeis to big maybe not enough back pressure...ROB
 
I think the power curve sucks. Notice the wave action on hp and torque? That should be smooth, not spikey. Does the timing mark stay steady as the rpms rise or does it move around (will need a dial back light for that)? I think there's more power in it. It should not be surging like that. Things to look at: The air/fuel gets fat as the rpms rise. You're either rich on primaries or secondaries. As the air door opens against the spring there should not be a rich condition. It should be a tad lean during that. Also check your distributor and things like oil pump drive and bushing, the timing set... Those curves should not be wavey. You didn't get hosed on the deal in terms of the engine. Looks like the actual engine cost was closer to $4K without the carb or stuff to bolt it in. Which is for me a mild performance type build figure. It may have re-used parts that should not have been.. like the OP drive. That will cause a fluctuation in the output. Somethings definately "off".
 
moper said:
I think the power curve sucks. Notice the wave action on hp and torque? That should be smooth, not spikey. Does the timing mark stay steady as the rpms rise or does it move around (will need a dial back light for that)? I think there's more power in it. It should not be surging like that. Things to look at: The air/fuel gets fat as the rpms rise. You're either rich on primaries or secondaries. As the air door opens against the spring there should not be a rich condition. It should be a tad lean during that. Also check your distributor and things like oil pump drive and bushing, the timing set... Those curves should not be wavey. You didn't get hosed on the deal in terms of the engine. Looks like the actual engine cost was closer to $4K without the carb or stuff to bolt it in. Which is for me a mild performance type build figure. It may have re-used parts that should not have been.. like the OP drive. That will cause a fluctuation in the output. Somethings definately "off".
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Great !
I'm going to get the carb tuned. The secondaries may need to be a step smaller. Next I'm going to a chrome ignition box not the orange.My timing is at 36 , May need to be at 34. The distributor is the mp brown cap. I was told maybe spring change in distributor would help. How do I check the op drive?
 
i agree with moper...and my aplogies if it seemed like i was rude about 8k for a motor build..if it was 8k for the motor and thats all you got then you were ripped, but afte seeing the breakdown it seems about right...also, just out of curiosity where are you shifting at rpm wise? as far as i know this cam is done by 6k so shifting later may be doing nothing for you (not saying it effects dyno stuff, just et)...and at the end of the day, something i have learned from the guys on here is the dyno is a tuning tool (as you can see its pretty useful now using the curve and a/f ratio to figure out what might be lacking) but is just that and shouldnt be gospel...hp isnt the only thing that matters about et so much since after all, the chassis and converter play important roles that a dyno will never show...good luck!
 
Like Burnt Orange'74, I'm a believer in the Airgap intake. I also run a Bigs 750 Holley. I told him my combo and he sent me my carb. Love BIGS!!!!! Wasn't real high I think like $435 shipped.
The numbers aren't shabby at all once you add approx. 100 hp. jmo
 
You can start with making sure the timing mark stays steady by using a dial back timing light and reving the engine from idle to 2500 and hold and check the mark. Then go up to 4500 and check again. If the timing jumps around there can be several causes:
First, the timing chain. Easy to test. pull the ignition cap so you can see the rotor. turn the engine by hand clockwise about 1/2 turn. Then watch the rotor while you turn the engine counterclockwise. If the crank turns more than a few degrees before the rotor moves, the chain is loose.
Second, the oil pump drive. Pull the distributor and take a large flat blade screwdriver and put it into the slot in the top of the drive. Then apply pressure side ways on the drive away from the cam. If the drive can be moved in any direction other than rotating, the bushing and drive must be replaced. It's common in cheaper builds to re-use them with a new bushing... These parts wear in together so replacing 1/2 can lead to issues quickly.
 
stevedemon340 said:
Like Burnt Orange'74, I'm a believer in the Airgap intake. I also run a Bigs 750 Holley. I told him my combo and he sent me my carb. Love BIGS!!!!! Wasn't real high I think like $435 shipped.
The numbers aren't shabby at all once you add approx. 100 hp. jmo
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the carbs are really nice and he helps you out whenever you need help.. Sends jets and air bleeds out if you need them. Im glad I paid for it
 
at 103mph you should be high 12s.. Never tune for fast time always tune for fastest MPH...usually I believe ET is in suspension, 60 times and traction. I just remember I was told..tune for fastest MPH
 
12's??
as long as you're not turning tires anywhere in between, otherwise you could be faster than that.

I spun tires 1st,2nd,& into 3rd and went through the traps @ 104 and change, with a 4spd 340 car.
 
pilotsf said:
Next I'm going to a chrome ignition box not the orange.My timing is at 36 , May need to be at 34. The distributor is the mp brown cap. I was told maybe spring change in distributor would help.
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Getting rid of that orange box would be the first thing I would do. And get an ohm meter and make sure it is zero ohms to both engine and negative side of the battery.

The newer MP distributors are supposed to be adjustable as far as removing the amount of timing they have in them.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
12's??
as long as you're not turning tires anywhere in between, otherwise you could be faster than that.

I spun tires 1st,2nd,& into 3rd and went through the traps @ 104 and change, with a 4spd 340 car.
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not trying to be selfish here (since like i said i have a similar combo in a way) but what do you guys think he should be running in the quarter mile with his setup tuned properly? are high 12's or faster realistic for him with tuning?
 
That 340 [still have] is just a .030 kb hypers, .528 solid 284*, mildly ported X heads [i did], 1 5/8 headers, 1.6 roller rockers, w tray, V baffled, weiand single plane and holley 750 dbl pumper 72 pri 82 secondary, MSD dist 26/34 all in by 2200rpm
revs 6800 all day and will pull a lil past 7k
super basic.
I even found the flow sheet for 'em here..
the exhaust began to lag down low after the last Valve job [sunken hurts]

Photo 51.jpg
 
With the right gearing 103 can be 12.50s in a 3200lb car. MPH indicates horsepower pretty accurately once you know the racing weight (w/driver and fuel).
 
moper said:
With the right gearing 103 can be 12.50s in a 3200lb car. MPH indicates horsepower pretty accurately once you know the racing weight (w/driver and fuel).
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True,mine was a hefty 3,800 with me in it.
 
You really need to raise your shift points. 5000 rpm is too low. You also need more converter. I bet that TCI Breakaway converter has barely any more stall than a stock 318 converter. I would avoid the Alabama Boss Hog converters. They don't have a very good rep. Check with Dynamic,PTC,ATI or any number of other good converter companies. A GOOD high stall converter is perfectly streetable. Put a good 10(or 9.5) inch 3500 stall in it, get some sticky tires and shift it at 5500-5800 and watch yourself drop into the 12s. And i think a Holley 750 DP would work better than your Edelbrock. I have had good luck with the orange box ignition. You don't need a fancy ignition in a 12-13 second car.
 
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