eddy heads or prt a set of J heads

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74swinger360

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So i want to do new heads for my 360 and have been talking about it for a while and hav e chance to get a set of J cast heads for 100 dollars. Would it be better to get some eddy heads or port and polish and clean up the old J cast head. Im looking for performance vs. price here. Thanks in advance.
 
well...the price for eddy heads are known...

the price to do the work on the J heads are ???

new valves..new springs....new retainers...new guides..new seals..mil heads...port and polish????

if you can afford the eddies..I would go that route. I have a set of Out of the Box eddies heads on my duster now for 5 yrs...
 
if you are comparing eddy heads to stock J heads ...yes there is an improvement..
 
I have a set of J heads. Should have bought a set of aluminum heads instead of spending the money on a set of J heads that was in the shed, so they were FREE, I don't remember even where I got them.

The #5 cylinder has tagged the valves and bent the pushrods twice. My guess now is they had the guides too tight.

So trying to go alittle cheaper with the stock heads has cost me $$$$$$$$ and TIME

Spend the money, buy the good ones to start instead of building something you will never be totally happy with
 
All depends on your idea of self worth if you are porting them yourself. For me it works out to about $700 cheaper for the iron but you lose any idea of using quench and the weight loss of aluminum. Most guys can do a little good, or a lot of damage, and that's once you've gotten the core heads up to snuff in terms of machining and parts. In terms of my builds... To do a set of cast irons that will flow around 245-250 at .500 I'm looking at somewhere close to $1400 including parts and $250 for my porting. To have a set of LA type RPMs ready to bolt on is about $2100. The cheapest iron heads I've seen are Brian's (OU812 here and Moparts) RHS Magnums. But then I still have to ship accross country so there's little bonus for me to get them.
 
With the eddy heads what else would i need with them. I already have prform roller rockers and i was going to get the set with the valves and springs in them. What else would i need to put on them?
 
not knowing what camshaft you are going to run..but you can run stock non adjustable rocker arms and stock pushrods if need be.
 
Before buying the Eddy heads,try posting a want add here first.Someone read I was wanting some Eddy heads and PM,d me.In the long run,I got a deal on a pair OTB.It saved me alot of cash,no shipping(local pickup),no tax,so with money saved I had them P&P.Just a thought,good luck.
 
"not knowing what camshaft you are going to run..but you can run stock non adjustable rocker arms and stock pushrods if need be. "

I am running the edelbrock performer rpm cam.
 
WildCat said:
I have a set of J heads. Should have bought a set of aluminum heads instead of spending the money on a set of J heads that was in the shed, so they were FREE, I don't remember even where I got them.

The #5 cylinder has tagged the valves and bent the pushrods twice. My guess now is they had the guides too tight.

So trying to go alittle cheaper with the stock heads has cost me $$$$$$$$ and TIME

Spend the money, buy the good ones to start instead of building something you will never be totally happy with
Click to expand...

You need to find a better machine shop 1st duder.
or/and learn how to check/mock piston to valve clearance.

I have just over $800 in my J heads that have hardened seats on the int & exh , 11/32 under cut stem valves, milled/cc'd, bronze guides, cut guides for double springs etc....and my own port work that has been tested and flows a lot more than any ootb eddy heads.

yeah...go spend $1400+ on eddys and then have to dump another $600 in a VJ and port work to get them where mine are or better, no thanks.
 
moper said:
All depends on your idea of self worth if you are porting them yourself. For me it works out to about $700 cheaper for the iron but you lose any idea of using quench and the weight loss of aluminum. Most guys can do a little good, or a lot of damage, and that's once you've gotten the core heads up to snuff in terms of machining and parts. In terms of my builds... To do a set of cast irons that will flow around 245-250 at .500 I'm looking at somewhere close to $1400 including parts and $250 for my porting. To have a set of LA type RPMs ready to bolt on is about $2100. The cheapest iron heads I've seen are Brian's (OU812 here and Moparts) RHS Magnums. But then I still have to ship accross country so there's little bonus for me to get them.
Click to expand...

dude...you need to divuldge what that 1400 covers if your porting only costs $250.LOL

Thats bull sheeet
 
Trust me buy the Edelbrocks..i wouldn't use an iron head ever again..unless their w-2's...sure the cost up front is more money then j's but the potentional for making power with the Edelbrocks wayyyy off sets the cost..porting for $250.00 i can only imagine what they look like..
 
I say go with edelbrock heads...Maybe buy just the bare castings, and then start from scratch, have them ported and polished, with new valves and springs...I do realize this will cost some dough, but I think aluminum heads are worth it...
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
dude...you need to divuldge what that 1400 covers if your porting only costs $250.LOL

Thats bull sheeet
Click to expand...

Bull sheeet? Why, because you're too cheap? I'll stand by my results and you can kiss my *** :bootysha:.

For purposes of satisfying yet another "moper's a bull **** artist" line from the head peanut of the gallery... I'll post it and you can call me bullshit and an asshole yet again:
This is what I pay for on every set of iron heads I use, mine or my customers', whether street or race. I believe performance rebuilding means ending up with a better result than the factory could provide on their best day. I use Larry's Auto Machine in Groton, CT and the pricing on my quoting sheet comes from the most recent receipts from there: degreasing, magging, airless shotting, new unleaded seats, new guides or liners, cutting guides for positive seals(if liners used), cutting spring seats for dual springs, 5 angle Serdi valve job, milling deck surface to set chamber size (to my spec), cutting intake surface as needed. By my latest price guide that's about $900. and I pay others to do this work. I will disassemble and I inspect and reassemble after porting and cleaning and that I will charge for.
What I buy for parts:
New stainless performance valves, seat inserts, guides or inserts, seals, springs to match cam, retainers, locks to match valves and retainers, new core plugs, and new studs. Most of this is part number dependant on the price, but rough pricing is $200 for valves, $200 for springs, another $80ish for retainers, locks, and seals, CT state tax of 6%, and shipping. Then the porting. I bill my labor at $50/hour and most Stage 2 jobs will take me a couple hours per head. In most cases I spend more time than I bill, but of course I'm an overcharging asshole so you won't believe it. My customers get a full quote before any money changes hands and the last one I believe was within $300 of the estimate on a complete engine job, carb to pan. Not to mention I let him help take it apart and inspect at my house, stored it at my house, lent out my equipment to him to move/install it, and photo documented everything.

So for the last time :thebirdm:

Sorry if this is off topic.
 
I was looking in to this some my self. Buy the time you have the J heads rebuilt it is not going to be a lot more money to go with the Eddys. But thats just the way I see it.
 
Eddy's...That way you have room to grow when your thirst for more power overcomes rational thought.:-D

I run Eddy's on my 410...love em.
 
Aluminum heads are the best way to go,"IF" you can afford them.

Alot of this question depends on what your going to do with this car ?

Money is King right now,and there are deals out there.

Interesting that I havent seen Magnum heads mentioned.

While I'm here,and this is directed at everyone as a whole,maybe this would be a good time to mention that the original poster asked for opinions. Just because your opinion doesnt mesh with someone elses opinion doesnt give you the right to jump on them. Everyones experiences will vary.
Just a little food for thought.
 
Another thing to consider is if an aluminum head gets damaged, it can be repaired. Damaged cast head becomes a door stop.
 
moper said:
Bull sheeet? Why, because you're too cheap? I'll stand by my results and you can kiss my *** :bootysha:.

For purposes of satisfying yet another "moper's a bull **** artist" line from the head peanut of the gallery... I'll post it and you can call me bullshit and an asshole yet again:
This is what I pay for on every set of iron heads I use, mine or my customers', whether street or race. I believe performance rebuilding means ending up with a better result than the factory could provide on their best day. I use Larry's Auto Machine in Groton, CT and the pricing on my quoting sheet comes from the most recent receipts from there: degreasing, magging, airless shotting, new unleaded seats, new guides or liners, cutting guides for positive seals(if liners used), cutting spring seats for dual springs, 5 angle Serdi valve job, milling deck surface to set chamber size (to my spec), cutting intake surface as needed. By my latest price guide that's about $900. and I pay others to do this work. I will disassemble and I inspect and reassemble after porting and cleaning and that I will charge for.
What I buy for parts:
New stainless performance valves, seat inserts, guides or inserts, seals, springs to match cam, retainers, locks to match valves and retainers, new core plugs, and new studs. Most of this is part number dependant on the price, but rough pricing is $200 for valves, $200 for springs, another $80ish for retainers, locks, and seals, CT state tax of 6%, and shipping. Then the porting. I bill my labor at $50/hour and most Stage 2 jobs will take me a couple hours per head. In most cases I spend more time than I bill, but of course I'm an overcharging asshole so you won't believe it. My customers get a full quote before any money changes hands and the last one I believe was within $300 of the estimate on a complete engine job, carb to pan. Not to mention I let him help take it apart and inspect at my house, stored it at my house, lent out my equipment to him to move/install it, and photo documented everything.

So for the last time :thebirdm:

Sorry if this is off topic.
Click to expand...


Wow... you really live in the past.. back when I called you 'an asshole' for you telling me there was no way I could get the #'s from my self ported j heads, Well...I did, so who's the asshole? why..you are of corse.

Look guy....you can't go through your entire life being one of 'those' that predetermines and thinks if you can't do it then no one else can either,
and you aint sorry for nothing, but you are pretty sorry right now...

''moper''...''the guy that says he don't waste time on sb iron, but says he knows how to port it right.''...
$250??
1400+250=ur sore backside and behind u moper pullin up his tights.

I bet they flow like a toilet with yer money swirl'n away...
And you have to go through and still check the work??
don't start this again...
all I asked is what the heck they flowed and what was done to them 4 $1600
meanwhile I have all the same sht done to mine AND BETTER PORT WORK and only have a lil over $800 parts & machine.
Hughes will sell you ported j's done up flowing [email protected] for around $1200 when I called.....what? do yours come autographed??
 
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