Electric fan install help.

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Thank you for the clarification, I did know enough that I did not want a probe or a sender seeing as how the the sender I'm using is so far off it's ridiculous. But I did not know how they actually differ, except that the GM style with the kit is the same type my Avalanche uses which is very accurate. Thanks.
 
The install is done and works perfect. I had to cut off the GM style connectors and add the Fords, glad I picked up that harness. Had to shorten the wires for my application, all expected and went easy. One thing I can't find in the directions was how to activate the hi and low speeds, I know they would on a ECM but nothing about how to run it stand alone. I'll be giving them a call tomorrow about it. Any ideas?
 
FYI= I started this thread to gain info and get parts selection sorted and attained before I actually had to turn a wrench, after all the input and research myself I am very happy so far with the project, BIG Thank You !!!, to all who helped, especially you GoldDuster. It went much easier with all your experience.
SO now in hind sight, as always as you try to be prepared but, you know hind sight.
If any of you are planning this upgrade keep in mind these things I have learned. And this is mostly if your planning future upgrades, I had been planning FI and now know-

1. The fuel tank I just bought is useless because I want to run an in-tank fuel pump rather than a noisey rail mount. So I'll need to change that.

2. The timing control probably will not work with the RTR distributor I just bought to upgrade to electronic from points, luckily the MSD will.

3. The awesome Entropy fan controller I just installed won't be needed because the FITech unit already controlls the fans built in, just need a relay. I hope I'm wrong on this one just so I can continue to use the unit, LOL.
Whats the point? Try to plan ahead, like I did, but you won't, so we live and learn. And now I have some more knowledge and spare parts.
 
Phil, aeromotive makes a stealth gas tank (with in tank pump) that fits in our cars and will work with the relocation kit AND tailpipes.
 
You're welcome.

I'm unsure what the FI tech has control for but usually EFI controllers only can control one relay unless this one is different. I'm still using my controller even though my megasquirt can control at least one of the speeds by itself.

I did the conversion with the Aeromotive Phantom (maybe what roccodart440 is talking about), but there's some fab involved. I do like it though. Link to topic: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=327225

I went seriously full-tilt on that stuff. Works amazing though! Not for beginners or people who don't like wiring.
 
After getting the FiTech, I see that I will want to use the Entropy controller, but, I still need to call them and fing out why I only have one speed on the fans. I spent an extra 40 bucks for thier LSX controller becuase it handles two speeds, but now I think maybe it only has that option if it's run by an ECU, not as stand alone. If that's the case I could've bought the cheaper unit.
 
Also, after going through the instructions, I do think my Proform distributor will work being locked out. So this is going to be great with all the modern technology. No more points, no more mechanical fan, no more carb, no more vacuum advance, no choke, no more trying to tune them all to get them playing nice together...Love it!!!
 
You're welcome.


I did the conversion with the Aeromotive Phantom (maybe what roccodart440 is talking about), but there's some fab involved. I do like it though. Link to topic: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=327225
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This is a stealth tank with an A1000 submersed in it for carburation.

And yes, I guess I should have been a little more specific. It does require some mild fabrication. When I said it fit I didn't mean it was a bolt in like hot rod city's gas tanks are.
 
I know this is an old topic but I feel it’s pertinent info. If you’re running a Holley Stealth Sniper setup there may be a way to not order at least the digital Dakota controller. I will update shortly and I’ll post a new how to thread with pictures.
 
If you just want add-on pusher fan(s), mostly for AC condenser and tranny cooler, I recently rigged a cheap-bastard system on my 1965 Dart (yellow car):

Dual Chinese 9" fans, $27 ebay, mounted w/ metal straps rather than the stupid push-thru nylon ties. They come as a puller, but I just reversed the 2 wires and flipped the flan blades over to them pushers. Probably not enough airflow to cool the engine, but helps the AC and trans coolers when going slow or sitting at long stoplights.

Controller is PN for my 1996 Plymouth Voyager, a solid-state relay which drives two much bigger factory puller fans, so "should work". They rivet it to the steel bumper, so my bolt to an aluminum plate w/ heat compound "should work". 4 wires - thick "BATT+", thick "Fan Out", thin 12 V "IGN", thin "short to gnd to actuate". Recall $25. Bought since could use it on my minivan otherwise.

Sensors are all temp switches which short to ground to actuate. One is PN for my 1985 M-B which screws onto its refrigerant filter-driver, just solid copper no penetration into the refrigerant needed. I tapped a blind hole in a plug (recall 6 mmD) to mount it. Another is in the radiator, TS145 for GM (if reading my notes correct). BTW, that radiator is for a 1972 Dart slant, though mine is a 273 (I know, bad choice at Autozone long ago). A 3rd temp sensor is at the outlet of the transmission cooler, a Derale PN I recall.

In my 1965 Newport and 1964 Valiant (red car shown), I used a factory pusher fan for my 1985 M-B. Most are similar into the 1990's. They have a rigid aluminum frame and their tubular mounts can be leveraged, plus I used the little horns on the mount in my Valiant. In M-B, only the refrigerant temp switch above turns on the fan (via 30A Bosch relay). The controller is a Hayden 3651, I got cheap new from a liquidator. It can only use its hard-wired temperature sensor, which I placed at the radiator top. It has a pot to adjust turn-on temperature. The relay is standard replaceable 30A Bosch. The extra blue wire is for a 2nd fan. Downside is you can't turn on the fan with refrigerant temperature, unless you wire a parallel relay for that.

Some designs turn on the pusher fans whenever the AC clutch engages, but seems an unneeded waste at highway speeds. My Newport has a Holley Commander 950 which can actuate the fan at a set coolant temperature, so I might later rip out the Hayden controller. I also have two fan relay harnesses I got cheap on ebay ($15 ea). They were made to dealer-retrofit a GM cross-over with additional fan for Phoenix (factory recall). Turned out too clumsy to use, but suitable anywhere a relay is needed. They have a fusible link.

Dart coolant temp switch.jpg


Dart fan controller.jpg


Dart pusher fans.jpg


Dart refrigerant switch.jpg


GM fan harness1.jpg


GM fan harness2.jpg


Valiant fan controller.jpg


Valiant M-B fan.jpg
 
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