Engine Surge While Stopping

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Alright, update. This is a long one.

Firstly: I'm pretty sure the secondaries are fine. However, according to 666mopower666, they should be mechanical. What I'm seeing on mine, is that they are BOTH mechanical and vacuum driven. The larger, upper plates (that look like they're stuck partly open) seem to be vacuum driven. If I hold those open, I see a second set of plates below them, that move with the throttle. Those appear to be fully closing. Thusly, I don't think I have a problem with my secondaries. This carb is less than four years old, lightly used, and always with good clean fuel.

Secondly: I had to revisit 73AbodEE's suggestion that the throttle linkage might be binding up. He was on to something. Out of desperation, I removed the bolt holding the throttle linkage in place while the engine was running, and sure enough, it dropped the idle. Apparently, the position it was in was causing it to stick open, just a little. It didn't feel tight at all, but it was definitely tugging the throttle open.

With the above straightened out, it seemed like everything was fixed. The engine had warmed up, I set the timing, idle mixture, and idle speed. Hooray! She's ready to cross the state!

Not exactly...

About 120 miles into the 240 mile trip, the something goes wrong with the idle. Instead of a healthy 700-750, it's a stumbling 550-650. I figured I'd just set the idle mixture wrong; like it was drowning or starving. It was also starting to really hesitate coming off of idle. I also noticed the timing was a bit advanced (a light clacking going uphill in 4th gear, heavy load situations, exacerbated by my awful rear-end ratio; but hey, 20 mpg highway).

After two-stepping a few stoplights and making it to work, I left it, planning to correct the mixture and timing afterword.

After work, didn't start. REALLY didn't start. Not even a pop. I check the spark, tweaked the timing, etc. It wasn't until I actually flooded it trying to start it that it caught, sputtered and died. So I upped the idle (a lot) and set the idle mixture to very rich.

I attacked it with the carb cleaner looking for vacuum leaks. I wasn't successful; the engine would rev hard, sputter out, return to normal, and repeat, all on its own. I could never tell if the rev was due to the carb cleaner, or just the engine's own cycling. Now I'm out of carb cleaner.

Regardless of that, is this sounding like a vacuum leak to anyone else? One thing I noticed, is that my original problem, the hard-rev while stopping, is much worse. It will rev +500 rpm, and then hang there for a good while before calming back down. It's also hesitating hard coming off of idle.

I'm wondering if it could also be a generic fuel delivery problem? The only thing I can think of is that while stopping, all the fuel in the float bowls and the tank are pushed forward, easing the load on fuel pump, and possibly pushing more fuel out of the carb.

Anyway, if it IS a vacuum leak, I'm afraid it will be around the intake runners. Is this something tightening down the manifold would help (it's aluminum)? Or am I going to have to get a new gasket and re-install the manifold for a third time?
 
Another question: Does that trick where you put your hands over the top of the carburetor while the engine is running really work to tell you if you have a vacuum leak?
 
Another question: Does that trick where you put your hands over the top of the carburetor while the engine is running really work to tell you if you have a vacuum leak?
Yes, because if you cut the air off and it doesn't die almost immedietely then it's getting air from somewhere else.
 
Alright, update. This is a long one.

Firstly: I'm pretty sure the secondaries are fine. However, according to 666mopower666, they should be mechanical. What I'm seeing on mine, is that they are BOTH mechanical and vacuum driven. The larger, upper plates (that look like they're stuck partly open) seem to be vacuum driven. If I hold those open, I see a second set of plates below them, that move with the throttle. Those appear to be fully closing. Thusly, I don't think I have a problem with my secondaries. This carb is less than four years old, lightly used, and always with good clean fuel.

Secondly: I had to revisit 73AbodEE's suggestion that the throttle linkage might be binding up. He was on to something. Out of desperation, I removed the bolt holding the throttle linkage in place while the engine was running, and sure enough, it dropped the idle. Apparently, the position it was in was causing it to stick open, just a little. It didn't feel tight at all, but it was definitely tugging the throttle open.

With the above straightened out, it seemed like everything was fixed. The engine had warmed up, I set the timing, idle mixture, and idle speed. Hooray! She's ready to cross the state!

Not exactly...

About 120 miles into the 240 mile trip, the something goes wrong with the idle. Instead of a healthy 700-750, it's a stumbling 550-650. I figured I'd just set the idle mixture wrong; like it was drowning or starving. It was also starting to really hesitate coming off of idle. I also noticed the timing was a bit advanced (a light clacking going uphill in 4th gear, heavy load situations, exacerbated by my awful rear-end ratio; but hey, 20 mpg highway). this is flooding, or a float is sticking and dumping fuel, and/or your timing is too far advanced

After two-stepping a few stoplights and making it to work, I left it, planning to correct the mixture and timing afterword.

After work, didn't start. REALLY didn't start. Not even a pop. I check the spark, tweaked the timing, etc. It wasn't until I actually flooded it trying to start it that it caught, sputtered and died. So I upped the idle (a lot) and set the idle mixture to very rich.your mixture screws should be between 1 3/4 - 2 1/4 turns out. tune these to the highest rpm without stumbling or the highest vacuum reading. sometimes a bad ground with the ECU box will cause an intermittant power to the coil.

I attacked it with the carb cleaner looking for vacuum leaks. I wasn't successful; the engine would rev hard, sputter out, return to normal, and repeat, all on its own. I could never tell if the rev was due to the carb cleaner, or just the engine's own cycling. Now I'm out of carb cleaner.if i were you, i would get your hands on another known running carb. i have gone through 3 edelbrocks before getting a decent one that will run right and hold a tune.

Regardless of that, is this sounding like a vacuum leak to anyone else? One thing I noticed, is that my original problem, the hard-rev while stopping, is much worse. It will rev +500 rpm, and then hang there for a good while before calming back down. It's also hesitating hard coming off of idle. all of these problems sound like a carb or fuel problem. it is still possible your vacuum advance is sticking. run this car with the advance plugged off and the vacuum port on the carb plugged and see if that makes a difference.

I'm wondering if it could also be a generic fuel delivery problem? The only thing I can think of is that while stopping, all the fuel in the float bowls and the tank are pushed forward, easing the load on fuel pump, and possibly pushing more fuel out of the carb. there is a thread on ethenol fuel, but mine is running great with only some fuel boil , which disappears after i use up the hot fuel in the bowls. the movement of the car should not affect the fuel pressure

Anyway, if it IS a vacuum leak, I'm afraid it will be around the intake runners. Is this something tightening down the manifold would help (it's aluminum)? Or am I going to have to get a new gasket and re-install the manifold for a third time?
re-torque your bolts to 35-40 pounds. its not likely that you are sucking air unless the intake is not fully seated. did you use the end gaskets ? did you pull the locating pins out of the block from the factory intake? if this was the case, it wouldnt be a "run good" , then "not good" situation, it would run like **** from the get go instead of ok and then not.
 
I didn't think aluminum intakes required the fully 35 lbs of torque. I thought they required less.

What do you mean, 'end gaskets'? The ones at the front and rear of the intake? Yes, I used those.

Mixture screws are about 2 turns out.

I don't know about the locating pins you're talking about.
I'm running a bit of a franken-engine, essentially on it's 4th rebuild.
Guessing they were taken out long ago.

I didn't think the carb should be an issue. Does Edelbrock really have quality issues?

ECU box? I don't have one. I'm running a Pertronix points replacement kit, but no ECU.
 
if this were me the first thing i would do get my hands on a known good running carb to rule out the carb alltogether. it is much easier than trouble shooting a carb coupled with all the other problems you may have. i have been in your shoes with all the symptoms and the carb was the problem the entire time
#1 retorque your intake bolts at 35 foot pounds
#2 make sure your points are clean and gapped correctly. if it were me, i would ditch them all together and buy an electronic conversion kit or as others would recommend a GM HEI conversion.
#3 with the advance hooked up, dial in your timing at 32* total at around 2500 -3000 rpm.
#4 back to the carb, take it off , set the floats, clean it out, make sure nothing is binding and that the primary and secondary butterflies are working and obtaining WOT fluidly before you bolt it back down. this literally takes 30 minutes. check for any gasket obstruction before tightening it down
#5 fuel pressure, you need 5 to 5.5 for that carb
#6 vacuum leaks/choke

one or more of these are your problem. also and again, run the car without the vacuum advance and the choke tied open to make sure it isnt vapor locking or the advance plate is sticking
 
Zelus, sorry if i misinformed you i was referring to the butterflies at the bottom of the carb, the secondary butterfly plates are mechanically linked to the primarys and they should open and close freely with the linkage, the upper plate on the secondaries is counter weighted and only opens when enough vacum is created when the throttle linkage opens the lower plates. I'm pretty sure this counterweight/vacum opening system on the upper butterflies is non-adjustable or at least not user friendly to do so.
Maybe one of the more knowledgable people will confirm or correct me in this.

But sounds like you were onto to something with the linkages, or perhaps the accelartion pump needs to be adjusted, if i remember right there are 3 differnt holes to adjust the height/shot of the pump, just throwing things out there. I do as 73AbodEE suggested and try another carb and see if it fixes it, (would at least get you pointed in the right direction) or maybe give yours a rebuild? I know you said it worked fine before the intake swap just dunno why a vacum leak would come and go like that
 
Another thought and problem i had is the throttle cable, might be sticking/hanging up somewhere between the pedal and the carb linkage. I fought with my carb and i think i had over tighened the hold down nut because it would stick open and idle would slowly lower, made shifting into drive a lil crazy lol this was a few years ago and again i dunno if it will be a prob on yours but its easy to check, just unclip it at the carb and see if the cable slides in and out freely
 
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