Engine/trans angle?

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75slant6

75slant6

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Ok so I'm hoping to put my transmission in my Duster soon. The trans is an ax-15 so I'll need to modify a crossmember and I wanna know what I want my engine/trans angle to be when it's installed, the car will be mostly a street car and probably very rarely see the track. Should I level the carb base? 2* down? 3* down?
 
depends on the rear axle. If say the pinion angle is 3* up then the trans angle should be 3* down. You want the working angle to be zero.
 
75slant6 said:
Ok so I'm hoping to put my transmission in my Duster soon. The trans is an ax-15 so I'll need to modify a crossmember and I wanna know what I want my engine/trans angle to be when it's installed, the car will be mostly a street car and probably very rarely see the track. Should I level the carb base? 2* down? 3* down?
Click to expand...

I would buy an angle finder from Harbor Freight (super cheap) and after you pull the driveshaft out of the tranny check the angle of the rear face (where the seal is). Make sure the gage is perfectly vertical. Write down the exact angle then when you install the new tranny simply put it in at the same angle. This will keep your carb and everything else in the stock position Horizontally.

treblig
 
Might help to state that I got the car without a trans or driveshaft in it and the hog head wasn't/isn't installed.
 
Doesn't matter. Level the car at the frame rails front to back and side to side. You can do it without that step, but I prefer it. Make sure to place jack stands under the rear axle housing so the suspension does not hang. After the car is level on the frame rails front to back and side to side, put the angle finder on the side of the axle housing where the chunk bolts on. Make sure the area is good, clean and flat. you want to make sure the angle finder is completely vertical. Record your reading. When you set the engine and transmission in place, you will want to achieve the same reading, but in the opposite direction. Just as I said. If the pinion angle is 3* up, the trans tail shaft needs to be 3* down. It's really that simple.
 
Level the motor and trans, don't put any angle.

pinion angle is set to working angle, not rest.

Set the motor and trans to 0

Then set the diff to how many degrees it moves, so if the diff moves 6, then you set it negative 6 so it is at 0 under-load.
 
The Mopar Performance Suspension manual says nothing about load and outlines the procedure pretty much just like I described. That said, I know you do it for a living everyday AND the MP information is just a tad out of date. lol

I agree with you that what you've outlined works better, but let me ask you this. How do you determine how much twist the rear suspension will have?
 
No, don't use the intake, use the crank or trans shaft or block pan rail.

Determining movement is done by watching it and measuring it's movement.

2 ways you can do it, on a drive on lift or you put a slid wire across the top, remove the snubber , use a bolt to hold the wire in place where it is touching the floor, then go and move it or tq it up, remove the wire and measure the bend.

. Optimally you want to be identical to the front angle, or 0 if you made the front angle 0 at load, but you can be within a degree or two.

.
 
So level the car on the rockers, front to back and side to side then level the engine and that's where to put it!
 
Well, I won't need to do this for awhile now after all gonna put a 904 in it for the time being to get it rollin'
 
Ok so I'm reviving my old thread because tonight im trying to get the car leveled up and ready to fab my transmission mount. (Yeah, 2 years after posting this thread I'm finally getting to it!!)

I leveled the car at the rockers and put the level on the oil pan rail and can't get the engine level b4 the bellhousing hits the big part of the tunnel.... So now what? Get the trans up as high as I can without hitting the tunnel and call it good or cut more of the tunnel out to get the trans farther up?
 
I'm planning to eventually slam the car so in that sense, cutting the tunnel/firewall to get the engine/trans level with the car as it would bring the trans farther up and the mount wouldn't hang down as far
 
These are the only pics I have of the tunnel right now. I'll get more soon as I get back to the shop.

Also, it just dawned on me that it might be hitting the pinch weld where the firewall/floor meet... Shoulda smashed that bastard flat while everything was out....

image.jpg


image.jpg
 
Engines don't necessarily have to be level. Boats are not, and sometimes, wedge manifolds or wedge spacers are used under the carb.

EDMWEDADAP.jpg
 
So get the tailshaft as high as I can without hitting, make the mount, put it all in the just set the the pinion angle with shims in the rearend?
 
FYI, It doesn't matter whether the body/frame is level or not when you get your engine/rear end angle. The angle of the frame/body is only important to set the engine angle because you want the frame/body to sit at the same angle it will sit when you actually drive the car in the streets and that's when engine angle is important. But when it comes to trans/differential angle the body /frame angle doesn't matter. As far as
I know, engines are normally tilted "down" in the rear so that the oil will (engine oil) drain back to the rear of the oil pan (or wherever the oil pick-up lives). Engine tilt (down towards the rear) will vary from 2 degrees to 5 degrees.
Yo

treblig
 
Ok. Thanks guys. I'll get the trans up as high as I can without hitting the tunnel and call it good
 
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