I’m scared shitless of wiring this car and anything electrical. Which is why I was super basic plug and play then drive away.
I’ll look at the AA kit a little more and see what all is in it.
Entire 69 dart wiring harness
- Thread starter DentalDart
- Start date
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I’ll look at the AA kit a little more and see what all is in it.
I completely understand. Just do it ONE wire at a time. Remember, you don't have a boss standin over your shoulder, so there's no deadline. Plus you got all us here to help you screw it up even more if you get stuck. Wait, that didn't quite come out right. LOL
I always have a boss standing over my shoulder…. She is mean too, she beats me and then gives me mean looks when stuff takes to long or when I spend to much money lol.
Although she didn’t say anything bad about the blue dart we looked at over last weekend….
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
If you can wire a relay, you can wire a car.
Go buy a cheap bosch relay, get 4 small spools of different colored wire, and an old headlight.
Wire it up on your bench to trigger the light. Add a switch if you want to get fancy.
Then look over the wiring diagram for you car and understand the pathways the power takes. The most complex is probably the neutral start switch, and it's not that hard.
If you can do a switched relay, you can wire these cars no problem. They're nothing more than switches and relays and bulbs.
Go buy a cheap bosch relay, get 4 small spools of different colored wire, and an old headlight.
Wire it up on your bench to trigger the light. Add a switch if you want to get fancy.
Then look over the wiring diagram for you car and understand the pathways the power takes. The most complex is probably the neutral start switch, and it's not that hard.
If you can do a switched relay, you can wire these cars no problem. They're nothing more than switches and relays and bulbs.
I’m getting a headache just thinking about this stuff and my ADHD is going haywire… came out to look at the dash and clean on the bezels… then broke this little doohickey that is for the alternator gauge when I was trying to get at the melted bubble. So I thought let’s look and see if I have a new one, I know I remember seeing some in a box. That led me to grabbing the wiring stuff….
But yes all the American auto wires are labeled nicely. In the kit. The old owner even left me secret messages….
But yes all the American auto wires are labeled nicely. In the kit. The old owner even left me secret messages….
Found box… disaster averted back to wiring.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
The way I understand this, the OP DOES NOT HAVE all the factory stock harness(s). THAT is a problem, because without it all, you won't have the factory CONNECTORS you need. Most those connectors, you can obtain the terminals as long as the plastic SHELL is OK. But, you do have to HAVE them, first.
So beat up on whoever is supposed to be getting you the factory stuff and make sure he gets it to you.
If you decide to buy an "as factory" repop harness, you will likely have what you need. but you certainly cannot make use of the Painless harness otherwise
So beat up on whoever is supposed to be getting you the factory stuff and make sure he gets it to you.
If you decide to buy an "as factory" repop harness, you will likely have what you need. but you certainly cannot make use of the Painless harness otherwise
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
AMMETER you broke/ is broken:
Are ridiculously simple. They are a magnetic needle movement and the brass shunt across the terminals, which generates a field to deflect. You need to be sober, alert, and pretend to be a jeweler. The needle should be centered when not in use. If you simply damaged the delicate rivets on the one gauge, you may be able to find some tiny screws and nuts, like 2-56, etc. Or even JB weld. There are some photos here and there, of guys who have repaired them.
The other thing you could do is convert it by mounting a voltmeter in there....an old thread........
www.forabodiesonly.com
www.forabodiesonly.com
Are ridiculously simple. They are a magnetic needle movement and the brass shunt across the terminals, which generates a field to deflect. You need to be sober, alert, and pretend to be a jeweler. The needle should be centered when not in use. If you simply damaged the delicate rivets on the one gauge, you may be able to find some tiny screws and nuts, like 2-56, etc. Or even JB weld. There are some photos here and there, of guys who have repaired them.
The other thing you could do is convert it by mounting a voltmeter in there....an old thread........
Ammeter to voltmeter conversion
I am getting ready to order a wiring harness kit for my 68 barracuda. I am finding out I need to change from an ammeter to a voltmeter. How do I do that while keeping the stock gauge and have it read correctly
www.forabodiesonly.com
Ammeter to Voltmeter...who does it?
Im interested in converting my stock ammeter to a voltmeter and was wondering which companies can do this, and approx how much they charged? I did a search and saw that redline does it for about 140, but I'm trying to see if anyone has any experience with other vendors? I thought about...
www.forabodiesonly.com
The only other thing I would add from here is, make DAMN SURE you don't cut the harness too short when you go to cut it. It sounds really stupid, but It's really easy to do. I normally leave about a 6" loop....or two in "whatever" circuit I'm working on and zip tie it in neat circles. That way if you have to make repairs in the future you have the excess wire to do it, plus, you have that excess to act as a buffer against any pulling or vibration during use.
I’ll first say, thank you everyone for the suggestions!
I was going to buy the M&H Dash Harness. Then got a message from a guy local to me with some bucket seats. I didn’t buy the seats because he wants 1100 for them, which is way more than I’ll pay for them right now.
Well got to talking and I got a stock swinger dash harness… been sitting in his shop since 87. Came with the dash, little knobs, and other things that I need. only going to use the harness and glove box door for now.
I still need the heater with ac unit for the dash. He may have it. I’m also getting a heater box with ac and vents from his friend this weekend.
Guy says he has a 7 darts and a bunch of dart parts. Been collecting since like 86 apparently.
Anyone know what the knob is for on the right of the radio? (Circled in red) Apparently this was a 4 speed dash because it has the spot for the reverse light?
I was going to buy the M&H Dash Harness. Then got a message from a guy local to me with some bucket seats. I didn’t buy the seats because he wants 1100 for them, which is way more than I’ll pay for them right now.
Well got to talking and I got a stock swinger dash harness… been sitting in his shop since 87. Came with the dash, little knobs, and other things that I need. only going to use the harness and glove box door for now.
I still need the heater with ac unit for the dash. He may have it. I’m also getting a heater box with ac and vents from his friend this weekend.
Guy says he has a 7 darts and a bunch of dart parts. Been collecting since like 86 apparently.
Anyone know what the knob is for on the right of the radio? (Circled in red) Apparently this was a 4 speed dash because it has the spot for the reverse light?
I am going to try and use this stock dash harness and then use my universal harness for everything else. Since they are brand new wires and stuff.
wiper switch by looks of it?
Wiper switch is right above the key. My 69 doesn’t have that switch and most dashes I see don’t have it.
What's the switch number?
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
I have a major mental block when it comes to costs. Some things I just can't justify even if I can afford it.
So what I try to do is not look at the cost of the parts individually, but as a whole.
For example. I once bought some furniture and a gun from a buddy. He wanted $200 more than the gun was worth for it (but I couldn't find another locally), and was willing to let the furniture to cheap. So I told myself the furniture was $800 and the gun was $400, rather than the opposite. We were both happy, and I didn't overpay, even though I did...
What I'm trying to say is if the seats are expensive but you can get other stuff cheap, just grab the seata too - assuming you don't fine another deal nearby. In the end, if you get your money's worth then it doesn't really matter what you paid for a particular item.
At the same time, I totally get not wanting to pay $1100 for roached seats. LOL
1100 for seats, that yes still need recovered. I’m far from needing seats, but I also found another set right now 3 hours from me for 700…
I have a year plus before I need seats. And that is if I start crazy buying stuff to finish the car right now which I’m not going to.
What do you mean switch number? It looks like green and black wires coming out of the turn button, then it’s cut. I found another green and black wire then that splits with a light blue or white and black wire that looks like it goes into the dash lights turn switch.
@4spdragtop i figured it out, well asked the guy who I got it from.
He said it’s a rare 69 only option? Rear speaker fader control? I’ll start a new thread and ask where the heck the speaker goes.
Edit- maybe it was a 67-9 option because legendary sells a package tray with the cutouts.
He said it’s a rare 69 only option? Rear speaker fader control? I’ll start a new thread and ask where the heck the speaker goes.
Edit- maybe it was a 67-9 option because legendary sells a package tray with the cutouts.
Cool! In the last pic post 35 where its circled, it looks like there is a switch(or something) installed. I figured if theres a part# on "it", that would tell you.
Yep fader was my next guess.
Yep fader was my next guess.
Damn.
Dartsun
Mopar Dude
Junk 50+ year old harness. Just wrap some electrical tape and send it.
Not happening lol.
Dartsun
Mopar Dude
Electrical issues drive me crazy. I plunked down about a grand for wiring so far for my 67 Belvedere from Classic.
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Post # 12. You can do it. Try and replace 1 wire a day and you would be done by now.
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