My 360 has a 750 Holley, Edelblock heads & airgap intake (dynoed @ 415hp) but I'm thinking of switching to the EZ-EFI system. It costs about $1,000 but might give me better response and mileage without losing horsepower. I could sell the Holley and recoop a few bucks.
EZ-EFI - anyone try this????
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inkjunkie
Well-Known Member
have you contacted Richard from http://www.fastmanefi.com/ ? he is a member here also, search for fastmanefi......
POS Dakota
Anti-Socialist
If you're making 400ish hp you'll be fine with it.
It only controls target a/f ratio I believe so you still use your ignition and you still adjust your own timing. I believe you also need the fuel pump which may be separate, or another level of the kit.
It learns and adjusts itself, so if you have trouble with carbs, you'll like that.
Nice unit. And IMO it looks really cool.
It only controls target a/f ratio I believe so you still use your ignition and you still adjust your own timing. I believe you also need the fuel pump which may be separate, or another level of the kit.
It learns and adjusts itself, so if you have trouble with carbs, you'll like that.
Nice unit. And IMO it looks really cool.
LJS30
Well-Known Member
I bet that setup would be nice on a mild 360 or even a 318.
4mulaSvaliant
Well-Known Member
There was a write up in one of the Mopar mags a while back. Thats where I first seen it. They did it to a small blocked A-body. The results as well as the install was very impressive! If I had the extra cash I would be all over it.
Also a friend of mine owns a hot rod shop and has installed the system on a late 70 Vette. Said the difference was unbelievable! Night and day! Power increased, MPG went up. Just seems like great product.
Also a friend of mine owns a hot rod shop and has installed the system on a late 70 Vette. Said the difference was unbelievable! Night and day! Power increased, MPG went up. Just seems like great product.
EZ-EFI kits i see on summt is selling for 1700.00 for basic kit....no fuel pump or regulator..
master kit with pump is 2100.00 ...
where is your 1000 price coming from??
LJS30
Well-Known Member
I plan on keeping my car forever and using it as a daily driver. With that said why not go to EFI? On a rarely used strip ride I wouldn't spend the money. However on a daily hell yes!!!!!!!!!!!
FASTManEFI
Active Member
I have lots of EZ-EFI info on my web site, but feel free to ask questions here.
Here's some primary info:
There's an internal A/F table, comprised of many cells, with the major axes being RPM and vacuum (map signal). The system adds or subtracts fuel from each cell as required to hit the desired A/F ratio for that cell. The trick in making this "learning" work is the system needs to know how to ignore the affects of acceleration fuel (the pump shot), which will cause a momentary rich condition, and decel conditions, which will cause a momentary lean condition. The vehicle must also traverse a cell in order for the system to learn it. So it takes about an hour of driving around to get most of the drive learning completed. The system also needs to know how to handle cold start, which is entirely different from what it has to learn when running. So it takes a few cold starts for the system to get that right.
The system does not control ignition timing so that has to be set by itself as you normally would.
The system never stops learning so if you change a component that would affect performance the system will automatically adjust over time.
You have control over the target A/F ratio table via the programming pod.
The system needs inputs from a good tach signal, a TPS signal, a map sensor, and coolant and air temp sensors (included in the TB EZ system)
It drives an IAC to help control idle.
Port injected versions can drive 8 injectors of any flow rate as long as they are high-Z.
At the beginning you have to answer some questions about how large is the engine, the injector flow rate, etc.
The only problems some of my customers have encountered are:
* The fact that you need an EFI fuel system. That means at least 43 PSI, an EFI regulator, and a return line back to the tank (included with the master system)
* You need a good clean tach signal from your ignition box. (MSD tach signals are perfect)
* Cold start can take some time to get right. The engineers started out being overly rich until the system learns.
That's about it.
Here's some primary info:
There's an internal A/F table, comprised of many cells, with the major axes being RPM and vacuum (map signal). The system adds or subtracts fuel from each cell as required to hit the desired A/F ratio for that cell. The trick in making this "learning" work is the system needs to know how to ignore the affects of acceleration fuel (the pump shot), which will cause a momentary rich condition, and decel conditions, which will cause a momentary lean condition. The vehicle must also traverse a cell in order for the system to learn it. So it takes about an hour of driving around to get most of the drive learning completed. The system also needs to know how to handle cold start, which is entirely different from what it has to learn when running. So it takes a few cold starts for the system to get that right.
The system does not control ignition timing so that has to be set by itself as you normally would.
The system never stops learning so if you change a component that would affect performance the system will automatically adjust over time.
You have control over the target A/F ratio table via the programming pod.
The system needs inputs from a good tach signal, a TPS signal, a map sensor, and coolant and air temp sensors (included in the TB EZ system)
It drives an IAC to help control idle.
Port injected versions can drive 8 injectors of any flow rate as long as they are high-Z.
At the beginning you have to answer some questions about how large is the engine, the injector flow rate, etc.
The only problems some of my customers have encountered are:
* The fact that you need an EFI fuel system. That means at least 43 PSI, an EFI regulator, and a return line back to the tank (included with the master system)
* You need a good clean tach signal from your ignition box. (MSD tach signals are perfect)
* Cold start can take some time to get right. The engineers started out being overly rich until the system learns.
That's about it.
LJS30
Well-Known Member
So basically it would be a perfect setup for a mild 318 on a daily driven street car.
FASTManEFI
Active Member
Any engine up o 550 HP, and over 1000 HP if you run 8 injectors with port injection.
Hey Fast man...
I am planning to buy one of these from you, my only problem is the tank and its holding me back.
For about $350 more, right, I can get the FAST EFI kit with an external pump / lines. If one goes this route I have to replace sending unit and/or modify it with one with a return line tube.
I think my current tank is ok but it should be boiled out as there is some rust and old gas varnish in it as it was off the road for a few years. I know from reading the FAST EFI instructions there are like 2 pre-filters in the external pump kit but should I go through all the work boiling this thing out or just plumb another pre-filter before that for a while?
Anyway option 1 estimate: $60 to boil, $10 new gasket, $69 for sender, modify it, $350 for efi external pump kit = $489 total tank investment.
Or…..instead of buying the $350 external pump kit I can buy an internal pump (better setup and one a lot of people use is below) and modify my tank…however every article I have read says to buy a new tank and convert it but I am 80% sure I can boil my old one out:
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...category_id=61/home_id=61/mode=prod/prd84.htm
But…it would require me to cut holes in my trunk to run the lines up from top of the pump as the mopar tank is smooshed up against the trunk floor, no clearance to sneak lines between them. Or pound down the top of the tank for clearance and not sure if I can do that.
Option 2 estimate: $60 to boil, 10 new gasket, 69 for sender, internal pump 215, new external fuel aeroquip supply lines $80 = $434 total. Cheaper, quieter and probably safer but I “may” have to cut up my trunk floor to route lines up and out, maybe not. Don't know.
Or have a custom tank done for the same, I hear they are about $1000 complete. I contacted Ricks Tanks but they need me to send them my old one in as a pattern and wait. I don’t know anyone else doing mopar tanks.
If there was an off the shelf $1k drop in mopar FI A body tank I would just buy it and your system as well and be done with it all.
This is the only thing that holds me back from taking the plunge. Messing with tanks is a pain and dangerous.
Is that a fair assessment of my options at this time?
Thanks
Sean
I am planning to buy one of these from you, my only problem is the tank and its holding me back.
For about $350 more, right, I can get the FAST EFI kit with an external pump / lines. If one goes this route I have to replace sending unit and/or modify it with one with a return line tube.
I think my current tank is ok but it should be boiled out as there is some rust and old gas varnish in it as it was off the road for a few years. I know from reading the FAST EFI instructions there are like 2 pre-filters in the external pump kit but should I go through all the work boiling this thing out or just plumb another pre-filter before that for a while?
Anyway option 1 estimate: $60 to boil, $10 new gasket, $69 for sender, modify it, $350 for efi external pump kit = $489 total tank investment.
Or…..instead of buying the $350 external pump kit I can buy an internal pump (better setup and one a lot of people use is below) and modify my tank…however every article I have read says to buy a new tank and convert it but I am 80% sure I can boil my old one out:
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...category_id=61/home_id=61/mode=prod/prd84.htm
But…it would require me to cut holes in my trunk to run the lines up from top of the pump as the mopar tank is smooshed up against the trunk floor, no clearance to sneak lines between them. Or pound down the top of the tank for clearance and not sure if I can do that.
Option 2 estimate: $60 to boil, 10 new gasket, 69 for sender, internal pump 215, new external fuel aeroquip supply lines $80 = $434 total. Cheaper, quieter and probably safer but I “may” have to cut up my trunk floor to route lines up and out, maybe not. Don't know.
Or have a custom tank done for the same, I hear they are about $1000 complete. I contacted Ricks Tanks but they need me to send them my old one in as a pattern and wait. I don’t know anyone else doing mopar tanks.
If there was an off the shelf $1k drop in mopar FI A body tank I would just buy it and your system as well and be done with it all.
This is the only thing that holds me back from taking the plunge. Messing with tanks is a pain and dangerous.
Is that a fair assessment of my options at this time?
Thanks
Sean
inkjunkie
Well-Known Member
this might be of help to you with the tank issue....http://jimkellemsmotorsports.com/ReplacementGasTanks.html
Wylde1
"No Value Added" Member
That sounds like the system I want - EZ port injection. After awhile of "self learning", can you get even more power out of them with some fine tuning?
Details, I need details!
Wylde1.
FASTManEFI
Active Member
Sean
You pretty much see the options. Many people add a fitting at the rear of the tank, run a Walbro pump external and insulate it well for the sound. The Walbros are fairly quiet. This is not the best solution because there's no sump. but it is the easiest. But if you need a new tank anyway, then just have a sump welded on. Good luck.
Wylde1
As far as power tuning - there's A/F and spark. You have control over the target A/F ratio (RPM vs map) with an internal table. You can set this to be anything you want at low vacuum levels and higher RPMs. But the EZ system does not control spark, so your timing needs to be optimized the same way you do it now. Its really quite easy.
You pretty much see the options. Many people add a fitting at the rear of the tank, run a Walbro pump external and insulate it well for the sound. The Walbros are fairly quiet. This is not the best solution because there's no sump. but it is the easiest. But if you need a new tank anyway, then just have a sump welded on. Good luck.
Wylde1
As far as power tuning - there's A/F and spark. You have control over the target A/F ratio (RPM vs map) with an internal table. You can set this to be anything you want at low vacuum levels and higher RPMs. But the EZ system does not control spark, so your timing needs to be optimized the same way you do it now. Its really quite easy.
joeboy
Well-Known Member
So fastmanEFI...
I am looking into one of the dry manifold/port injection systems also...
Is there a manfiold avail with the bungs for injectors/rails?
When I get the motor build I assume contacting you guys with specs would help in choosing injectors/pump/sensors...
Also I dont understand the need for replacing the stock tank/pick-up with the elec fuel pump, will it not work, or is it a matter of no return on the stock sending unit?
I am looking into one of the dry manifold/port injection systems also...
Is there a manfiold avail with the bungs for injectors/rails?
When I get the motor build I assume contacting you guys with specs would help in choosing injectors/pump/sensors...
Also I dont understand the need for replacing the stock tank/pick-up with the elec fuel pump, will it not work, or is it a matter of no return on the stock sending unit?
Wylde1
"No Value Added" Member
FASTManEFI
Active Member
As stated, Edelbrock has EFI manifolds for both RB and SB engines. Nothing for a B engine however. I usually have to convert a manifold for those.
Yep, I'll do all the sizing for the injectors, fuel pumps, etc.
EFI system need at least 43 PSI which a stock pump will not do. I discuss all this in several documents on my web site that all begin with " All you wanted to know about EFI ..." I tried to attach the file but this forum rejected it because it's bigger than 19.5K So go to my web site www.fastmanefi.com, select "technical downloads" and download the file called: All you wanted to know about EFI but was afraid to ask-1.doc
autoxcuda
Well-Known Member
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Sean, if you need something custom you can go right to the manufacturer here:
http://www.hotrodcitygarage.com/indexA.html
I am in the process and decided to get a stamped steel tank converted to an efi internal pump, it's recessed on top for plumbing.
www.rockvalleyantiqueautoparts.com
www.rockvalleyantiqueautoparts.com
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