goldduster318
Overzealous Car Modifier
I figured I would take this opportunity to do a review of the install of the EZ Wiring Mini-20 harness. I chose this harness because of its low price ($150 on E-ay), and small size.
My first impressions when it arrived were that there were some big bundles of wire, and just a few low quality crimp connectors for you to finish the job. It is set up to use a GM steering column and ignition switch. The directions leave a bit to be desired, but with a little know how and some thinking, the install will go just fine. My original wiring was really messed up, I had a 1.5V drop in my dash harness and it had been melted together in the past.
So, anyway, I made a bracket to mount it under the dash near where the original one was. I used the welder and some 1/8" plate steel.
This is what you see when you peer under the dash if you had to work on it. It will be easy to reach.
For the bulkhead connector hole, I used some 1/8" plate steel for that as well, and bought a correct grommet for an 1/8" plate from McMaster-Carr. I used the original bulkhead connector clips to hold it in and a self taping screw to hold it vertically.
For connectors, I bought a bunch of connectors and connector bodies from TheElectricalDepot.com. I would suggest buying a 25 pack of each type and 50 female of the 14-16 GA type, and a bunch of single and double connector bodies for the 56 series packard connectors (factory type). I also used a bunch of weatherpack connectors.
I bought the connectors to re-pin the steering column at Radio Shack. You'll need 11 if the 0.093" male terminals, and 5 of the 0.125" terminals. They are in the interlocking connector drawer there.
You'll also want to buy the MSD crimping tool and the "Open Barrel Terminal" die, and the weatherpack dies if you plan on using those. You'll also want the packard 56 series removal tool.
Here are the remaining pictures:
Overall, I had to make some modifications to the harness for it to work for a Mopar. The main ones were adding the ignition run for the start position (I deleted the ballast resistor), hooking up the headlight switch and key in buzzer, and connecting both of the accessory wires together so it would work with the mopar ignition switch. My car has a GM alternator, so it was easy to hook this up.
The end result is a car that has brighter lights, starts easier, and runs better. I think this was a great upgrade. I have some extra stuff in the car like a wideband O2 sensor so the extra circuits helped a lot for that. I think you could get by with a 12 circuit version if your car is almost stock and you have no intentions of using an electric fuel pump, electric fan, or anything like that in your car.
My first impressions when it arrived were that there were some big bundles of wire, and just a few low quality crimp connectors for you to finish the job. It is set up to use a GM steering column and ignition switch. The directions leave a bit to be desired, but with a little know how and some thinking, the install will go just fine. My original wiring was really messed up, I had a 1.5V drop in my dash harness and it had been melted together in the past.
So, anyway, I made a bracket to mount it under the dash near where the original one was. I used the welder and some 1/8" plate steel.
This is what you see when you peer under the dash if you had to work on it. It will be easy to reach.
For the bulkhead connector hole, I used some 1/8" plate steel for that as well, and bought a correct grommet for an 1/8" plate from McMaster-Carr. I used the original bulkhead connector clips to hold it in and a self taping screw to hold it vertically.
For connectors, I bought a bunch of connectors and connector bodies from TheElectricalDepot.com. I would suggest buying a 25 pack of each type and 50 female of the 14-16 GA type, and a bunch of single and double connector bodies for the 56 series packard connectors (factory type). I also used a bunch of weatherpack connectors.
I bought the connectors to re-pin the steering column at Radio Shack. You'll need 11 if the 0.093" male terminals, and 5 of the 0.125" terminals. They are in the interlocking connector drawer there.
You'll also want to buy the MSD crimping tool and the "Open Barrel Terminal" die, and the weatherpack dies if you plan on using those. You'll also want the packard 56 series removal tool.
Here are the remaining pictures:
Overall, I had to make some modifications to the harness for it to work for a Mopar. The main ones were adding the ignition run for the start position (I deleted the ballast resistor), hooking up the headlight switch and key in buzzer, and connecting both of the accessory wires together so it would work with the mopar ignition switch. My car has a GM alternator, so it was easy to hook this up.
The end result is a car that has brighter lights, starts easier, and runs better. I think this was a great upgrade. I have some extra stuff in the car like a wideband O2 sensor so the extra circuits helped a lot for that. I think you could get by with a 12 circuit version if your car is almost stock and you have no intentions of using an electric fuel pump, electric fan, or anything like that in your car.
