First engine build.

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Been pretty busy and have not done much lately. I ended up going with the 1.88" valves. The machinist had time and I did not get back to him about the bigger valves, So he had them done before i got them ordered. My fault, but it will be cheaper.

I finally made some room in the garage and got the block up on the stand. Plan on unwrapping it and starting on it this week. Just wondering what kind of assembly lube to use. I have used lubriplate and redline on motorcycle and small engine. My question is what is best for an engine that might sit a while before being run? Also what is best for wiping down machined surfaces, brake cleaner, lacquer thinner? I thought I read somewhere a member uses coffee filters to wipe down. Any input is appreciated. Hopefully I will have some progress and pictures soon.
 
I finally had some progress been busy with other projects: rebuilt an atv and working on my dads 49 chevy fleetline. I got the crank installed and it went pretty well, first one I did by myself. I cleaned up everything with acetone and cleaned passages with a cleaning brush, I was amazed how much came out of the crank passages. The bearings clearance was between .002-.0015". The end play was -006". The crank was ground .010" main and rod. The casting date is 2-13-70.
 

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I checked ring gap on the #1 bore. I have these speed pro 116 pistons and rings http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-8kh116cp30/overview/make/dodge

The top ring I assume is in the #1 pocket of the package and is shiny and has no bevel. That gap was .018"

The second ring was iron in #2 pocket with a bevel and gap was .014".

The oil rings were .025"

I have found alot of conflicting information on speed pro end gap. Is .004" for every inch for top and .0055 for second right? If this is right the top would be .016 and second be .022? My pistons are 30 over. I can not find any info on the package or the website for speed pro. If someone could verify some info it would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
For the factory service manual, the end gap for the two top compression rings is .010" - .020"

The ring end gap for the two thin oil rings is: .015" -.055"


You should be fine.


Also, before you install the pistons, check each piston and ring to make sure that it will spin freely when turned by hand. Then make sure that the ring end gaps for the two compression rings is at least 90° apart, I like to twist them 180° myself.

Also do the same for the two thin oil rings. Make sure that the ring end gaps are a minimum of 90° apart before installing them.

Check all main bearing and rod bearing clearances with plastic gauge.

You have a great block there. The '71 vintage blocks are the best of the 360's.
 
[ame]http://www.aa1car.com/library/ring_info_speedpro.pdf[/ame]

I would NOT run the second ring at .014, no way, no how!

Unless the 116 piston has some special requirements for gaps, like KB Hypers, I'd run them at .020 top and .022 second ring. Follow what the ring manufacture recommends. It's ALWAYS better to have too much ring gap than not enough.
 
Thanks for the replies. I Gapped the top ring .016" and the 2nd .0020". I screwed up and got a second compression ring a bit wide .024". I think it will be ok cause I talked to speed pro tech while at work and he said anything from 12 to 25 thou is fine for pump gas.
 
I put rings on a piston and put it in the bore. Is there a trick or advive to removing the rod cap from rod? Mine is really on there from the machine shop. I tried tapping with plastic mallet while clamping in vice with wood to protect rod. It took alot of force and effort to finally get it off?

Also what about rod clearances? My book say nothing about checking them. I only have a cheap digital micrometer. I tried to use plastigage but the rod caps come off so hard it screwed up plastigage.
 
Dont forget the converter! It often gets over looked because the cam is not "that much hotter than stock". I put an xe 268 in my 360 with 2.02 heads and changed from 3.23 to 3.73 after ordering a 2500 stall converter from Coan Engineering. Still wish I had gone higher with the converter. Ive read a lot of posts on here by guys who know their stuff, and they are right, having enough converter makes or breaks your engine combo!
 
I was happy to see the comp Sk20-222-3 kit at my door when i got home today. I put the cam in easy enough, spins freely. I slipped the timing set on just to see how it fit and seemed nice and snug. I did not get a new woodruff key for cam so will have to get one. My question is because i bought this as a block and crank what should i use to oil the timing chain. It did not have the plugs behind the cam plate when i got it, should I put it in? I have read that some have it and some don't. Also should it have the round slinger, the metal pointy oiler or both? All I know is the thrust plate that came with it had four bolts in it and the hollow bolt in top passenger side. The parts in picture are extras i got when i bought my motors. The seller threw in everything he had layin around, including some briggs and statten parts. Thanks!
 

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Ok, we have a bit to cover here.

Check to make sure that all of your oil galley plugs are in. Here are pictures of where they go:

These two go behind the camshaft thrust plate. Some people claim that you don't need them, but I had an experience that proved that I do. If you choose not to use these, then don't whine about low oil pressure later - I warned you.

View attachment 360 front face A02 B2.jpg

Here is the one that goes behind the oil filter adapter plate:

View attachment 360 oil galley plug filter A01 B2.jpg

Here's a close up of the one behind the oil filter plate:

View attachment 360 oil galley plug filter A02 B2.jpg
 
Thanks, I will get the two behind the thrust plate, i already checked for the other ones including the one one under the rear main cap. Does any one have a part number for the ones behind the thrust plate or the cam woodruff?
 
Here are the ones for the rear of the block.


Here is the rear face of the block showing three plug locations:

View attachment 360 rear face A02 B2.jpg

Here is a close up of the one on the lower passenger side of the block (the side the oil filter goes on):

View attachment 360 rear face A04 B2.jpg

Here is the other two toward the top of the rear face of the block. The one on the right is directly into the passenger lifter galley. The one on the left is just a "clearance/access" plug to access the one for the left (driver's side) lifter galley:

View attachment 360 rear face A01 B2.jpg

Here is looking down the distributor hole with the lifter galley plug circled. This is the plug that caps the part that has the oil pressure:

View attachment 360 rear cam oil galley A01 B2.jpg

Here is a closer up view. I have seen recommendations to drill a .060" hole in this plug to help oil the distributor drive gear you may or may not choose to do that:

View attachment 360 rear cam oil galley A02 B2.jpg

Here is a closer up view also showing the relationship to the brass bushing for the distributor drive gear:

View attachment 360 rear cam oil galley A03 B2.jpg

This covers all of the oil galley plugs.
 
if you bought a freeze plug kit..those two small plugs will be in the kit...

or dorman 555-008 and 555-009...the galleries take two different size plugs...

just did a 360 a couple of days ago
 
I bought a kit from summit and gave it to my machinist. Not sure if they were not in kit or lost. Don't know part number of kit i bought. I will get some plugs and put them in. Any opinions or advice on timing chain oiling, and what a 360 should use?
 
Now for the timing chain oiling system.

I have seen three different configurations from the factory from 67 to the mid 70's.

First, I would recommend cleaning up your parts a little better with a wire wheel on a drill and some brake parts cleaner. I like brake parts cleaner (the red chlorinated can - not the green non-chlorinated) as the brake parts cleaner dries faster and removes the color. Also Barryman's B-12 cleaner works well on some real black carbon stains like you typically see in the carburetor. I would recommend having a can of each handy. You can get both cleaners at Auto Zone.

Ok, now you have to put the thrust plate on. You will need the proper bolts. Here are what they look like:

Here's a picture of the two different styles of bolt for the thrust plate:

View attachment Cam thrust plate bolts A03 B.jpg

Here is a close up of the "unique one" with a hole in the center of it:

View attachment Cam thrust plate bolts A06 B.jpg

Here is a picture of the front face of the block:

View attachment 360 front face A02 B.jpg

Here's the same picture showing the location that the bolt with the hole drilled in the center (this allows the oil to drip from the valley of the block). I've seen some engines without this bolt and the hole just left open. This hole needs to be open, or with a bolt with the hole drilled through it, as it is the source for the oil for the timing chain:

View attachment 360 front face A02 B3.jpg

Here is a picture with the three holes for the other bolt circled. The two lower holes are for the "oiling tab", the thin metal bracket from your picture with the point. I've seen some engines with out this, but I like to use it as it directs the oil to drip down directly on the timing chain crank gear. I feel that this is the best way to make sure that it is lubricated. To mount the "oiling tab", you put the non hole bolt in the hole in the tab and that goes to the bottom passenger hole that is circled above in red. Then the anti rotataion tab goes into the bottom driver's side hole for the camshaft thrust plate. I would recommend using the upper bolt with the hole in it if you use the tab, as I would not want to use only two bolts to hold the trust plate in. If you don't use the bolt with the hole, I would recommend opening up the hole where the locator tab goes into and modifying the anti rotation tab so you can fit a bolt through the hole and still have the anti rotation feature (hopefully you can follow what I just meant here - if not ask questions).

View attachment 360 front face A02 B4.jpg


Stay tuned for part 2. I need some time to process the pictures. Tune back in 30 minutes....
 
Thanks alot for all the great pictures. Hope these pictures are helping more than just myself.
 
Here are pictures of the block

Here is the front face of the block:

View attachment Front Face B03 B.jpg

Here is a close up of the hole that feeds oil to the timing chain:

View attachment Front Face B05 B.jpg

Here is the same picture with the hole pictured:

View attachment Front Face B05 B2.jpg

Here is the back face of the camshaft thrust plate, it goes toward the block:

View attachment Thrust Plate Back B.jpg

Here is the front face of the camshaft thrust plate that goes away from the front face of the block:

View attachment Thrust Plate Front B.jpg

Here is a quick mock up of how the thrust plate and oiling tab go together. I didn't have a spare bolt with the hole around, but it should go in the upper hole in the block that is left open. This is the one pictured above that feeds oil to the timing chain. I don't feel comfortable holding the camshaft thrust plate in with only two bolts:


View attachment Oiling Tab A01 B.jpg
 
swifty said:
I bought a kit from summit and gave it to my machinist. Not sure if they were not in kit or lost. Don't know part number of kit i bought. I will get some plugs and put them in. Any opinions or advice on timing chain oiling, and what a 360 should use?
Click to expand...

Mancini racing and year one both have kits that have the freeze plugs and oil galley plugs in them. The year one kit also has the oil filter plate and "bolt" to hold it in also. I don't have the part numbers handy at this time.
 
Here are pictures of the oil slinger. YES YOU NEED IT! It "slings" oil from the crankshaft outward while the crank spins. It goes on after the timing chain on the crank, before the timing chain cover is installed.

Here is the back of the oil slinger that goes toward the block/timing chain crank gear:

View attachment Oil Slinger Back 02 B.jpg

Here is the front of the oil slinger that goes toward the timing chain cover. If you put it on backwards, it will hit the timing chain and damage the slinger. (the small end goes toward the block/timing chain, the large end goes outward toward the timing chain cover):

View attachment Oil Slinger Front 02 B.jpg

Ok, that is the end of the class today. Study hard, as there will be a quiz next Friday....

If you have any more questions, let me know.
 
swifty said:
Thanks, I will get the two behind the thrust plate, i already checked for the other ones including the one one under the rear main cap. Does any one have a part number for the ones behind the thrust plate or the cam woodruff?
Click to expand...

You can get cam woodruff keys at most good hardware stores like ACE. Bring your cam with to make sure that you get the right width and length.
 
krazykuda said:
Mancini racing and year one both have kits that have the freeze plugs and oil galley plugs in them. The year one kit also has the oil filter plate and "bolt" to hold it in also. I don't have the part numbers handy at this time.
Click to expand...

The Year One "hardware kit" is part # P5249261 and is the most complete. It has all oil galley plugs, water jacket cup plugs, and oil filter mounting plate and center "screw" for it.
 
After a long break from the build I finally got my heads back and some more of the parts for the build. I installed the comp chain set and it was a little on the loose side. Not bad but when I ordered the kit it was the 3203 which is not a double roller. I thought about doing a tensioner, but decided to go with a cloyes 9-1103 first which is a double roller. It was a little tighter and should stretch less so I ran it as is, no tensioner.

I degeed the cam and it came in at 104.5, cam card was 106. I will run that as is also.

I did learn two things, don't run the summit cheap stock pan, it fits terrible. I got it to work but a new pan should not take that much cussing. The second thing I learned is to check the pickup on the oil pump before you inspect pump. I inspected and cleaned pump and then when I tried to put pickup on the threads were undersized. I ended up running a tap on the pickup and the pumps also. It was a melling pickup and I took a lot of metal off. I would of returned it but I bought it so long ago I could not return it. Lessons learned, dry fit first and don't start and stop projects if you can. Anyway it is getting there.
 
A message just to subscribe to thread. I have a 340 I plan on doing myself, so the info from krazykuda is real good. The oil plugs are important. I did a 318 back in 1980 using a Chiltons only. One plug on back of block was left out. I didn't notice until I dropped the dist bolt on ground. Was then I noticed a HUGE pile of oil on ground. Thanks to all who contributed to this!
 
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