fixing my 8 3/4, advice please

-
gunmetal72

gunmetal72

Life is a dark ride
Joined
Jan 5, 2010
Messages
550
Reaction score
53
Location
Sicamous B.C
Some of you might remember I asked about a problem I am having with a noise coming from my 8 3/4 diff. I had to put a new yoke on as the old one had some wear and I was told it was unsafe. Since that was done it developed a noise because the yoke nut was disturbed and may not have been put back exactly where it was and this effect or change the preload on the pinion bearings. From every thing I was told and what I have read if I want to get rid of the noise, I will need to put in a new crunch sleeve and front yoke bearing and torque to the correct specks. But before I did that, I thought I would put it out and ask the experts on fabo. If anyone has any advice it would be welcome. I also wanted to ask if someone might know where I can find the new parts, I think I will need, crush sleeve, front pinion bearing and race, pinion seal, axel seals and axel gaskets.
 
The only 8 3/4 with a crush sleeve is the "489" case. I would convert it to crush sleeve eliminator just for ease of service. They are a bit more work to set up but once done will hold there adjustment if you need to change a yoke or pinion seal.
 
Crush sleeves hold there adjustment, that theory is untrue.

Crush sleeves do not further crush on themselves.
 
I am not trying to pick a fight as I have successfully changed many pinion seals without replacing the crush sleve. Why do so many manuals say they must be replaced if they hold their adjustment? I prefer the eliminator but that is only my opinion.
 
I install crush sleeve eliminators because pinion bearing preload can't increase due to a seal or yoke replacement.
 
Doctor Diff is the best, Just remember if you have driven the car much,,chances are the ring and pinion will howl due to different contact pattern and MAY have to be replaced. Just a thought.
 
DoctorDiff said:
I install crush sleeve eliminators because pinion bearing preload can't increase due to a seal or yoke replacement.
Click to expand...


x2. I call it cheap insurance in case the owner wants to change yokes for whatever reason.
I get all my stuff from Cass too ^^^
 
DoctorDiff said:
I install crush sleeve eliminators because pinion bearing preload can't increase due to a seal or yoke replacement.
Click to expand...

what is the difference to install a crush sleeve eliminator? Do I need to change anything else? I did not plan to replace anything except for the front pinion bearing, race, seal and crush sleeve. Also is the toque specs the same?
 
The crush sleve eliminator uses a solid spacer and shims to adjust the preload on the pinion bearings. You need a limber arm inch pound torque wrench to accurately set the preload.
 
If you go that route make sure to do a couple of things before you take it apart. Measure your backlash with a dial indicator on the ring and pinion, write that number down. Mark the caps so you put them back on the same side and the same orientation. I would also suggest getting a new pinion bearing, remove the old one carefully and hone it out just enough so it will slip on and off for ease of set up (adding/removing shims).

Once you have all of that, then you can proceed to setting it up using the bearing you honed out. Once you have everything right press on the new bearing and reassemble. Get the backlash as close to where it was when you started. Double check your pattern, put it back together and have a blast.
 
mischiefdart said:
I am not trying to pick a fight as I have successfully changed many pinion seals without replacing the crush sleve. Why do so many manuals say they must be replaced if they hold their adjustment? I prefer the eliminator but that is only my opinion.
Click to expand...


You can't re set a preload that is already set, unless you either remove it correctly or add a .005 or so shim beneath the bearing and re-set the preload, which won't be done correctly if the entire assembly isn't apart and done right anyway.
So the issue is if you use a crush sleeve over then you need to have paid attention before you even put the socket on the pin nut.

They do not change when they're installed, the solid adds no strength, it doesn't make anything better.

If you have a crush sleeve you need to take the nut off and put a new one back on EXACTLY how many times it took to remove plus 2 degrees, then there is no problem.

But everyone instantly starts taking things apart and end up with a problem.
 
Bad Sport said:
If you go that route make sure to do a couple of things before you take it apart. Measure your backlash with a dial indicator on the ring and pinion, write that number down. Mark the caps so you put them back on the same side and the same orientation. I would also suggest getting a new pinion bearing, remove the old one carefully and hone it out just enough so it will slip on and off for ease of set up (adding/removing shims).

Once you have all of that, then you can proceed to setting it up using the bearing you honed out. Once you have everything right press on the new bearing and reassemble. Get the backlash as close to where it was when you started. Double check your pattern, put it back together and have a blast.
Click to expand...

I couldn't have said it any better!
 
If you have a crush sleeve you need to take the nut off and put a new one back on EXACTLY how many times it took to remove plus 2 degrees, then there is no problem

Pretty much how I have done it. But as you said if you dont mark the nut and just gun it off bad things are bound to happen
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top