Free EFI...........

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67Dart273

67Dart273

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So I find a 90's Ford 460 EFI in N. Spokane for ..................FREE, 'xcept 'o 'course, gas money to and back, about 100mi round trip

So in between, during, after, and some more.............thunderstorms, I make a run, and..............

Pump, computer, complete intake, distributor, lots and LOTS of harness. Entire throttle body unbolts from intake 4bbl style, bottom three photos show the bottom of the throttle body housing, and what a "square bore" and "spread bore" would look. Seems to me adapting that much to an intake will be easy.

NOW I have to learn how to mod an intake for injectors.
 

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Nice score,look like 19 lb injectors.Blue body would be 24 lb.How about an M1 manifold.Single plane,4 bbl flange,drilled for injectors.Check out Dusted 72s buildup thread,got a great shop up close from Cudachick coating it.
 
Problem so far is that this seems to be a speed density rather than the newer mass air flow.

I do, however, seem to be coming up with a used "test engine" so might be doin' some 'speriments

First job is dig out what manifold (Torker I hope) I can mod for injector mounts

Second will be modifying the Ferd dist. for Mopar

Then we'll see......
 
67Dart273 said:
Second will be modifying the Ferd dist. for Mopar

Then we'll see......
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I know this kind of efi has been done using 5.0 mustang stuff, but the last writeup i saw was kind of vague as to how you adapt/modify the ford dist. for a mopar engine.
 
A quick look at the dist says "it might be easy." Since the Ferds turn ccw, and SB Mopars turn cw, it might be that pulse polarity, and the position of whatever triggers are in there will be out of time. I've forgotten, but I have done some Google work, and seen some others use crank triggers, etc to get around this

It also turns out that this just might be easy, if not cheap to convert to MAF. A different computer and the MAF, rewiring the computer connector, rewiring the injector harness for sequential and a few other things.

We'll see. As I said, it looks like I'm going to end up with a "run stand" engine which will be just rigt to eff with this winter!!!

ANY OF YOU know any good weblinks for this stuff, feel free to post 'em.
 
Thanks. I'm trying to keep this as budget as possible. I've got another Performer (forget if it's RPM or not, and a Torker, as well as at least 4 340/ 360 cast iron stockers. I might just use one of those.

IN fact, if I use cast iron, I can braze the bungs in myself!!! (I cannot weld 'luminininnunnnm)
 
Read numerous places that when running EFI a single plane is in order. Found it on here a while back. Had something to with the manifold having very little to effect on things when it is dry, and the single plane will offer better distribution.....
 
Nothing wrong with speed density. For me, lots of +'s over MAF. Much depends on the ECU methods, programming, and how well tuning is done.
 
Agree. Speed-density works fine if you have a not too wild cam, so that you have a fairly steady manifold vacuum signal. Holley's Commander 950 (and later?) systems use it. However, you will need to adjust the factory schedule for your engine displacement, which you can do externally by changing the injectors, fuel pressure, or buggering with the Pman signal. One advantage of MAF is that it directly measures air flow, so doesn't need engine displacement in the "fuel equation".
 
Why use Ford stuff instead of late-model Magnum stuff?:-k
 
jos51700 said:
Why use Ford stuff instead of late-model Magnum stuff?:-k
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I dont think the magnum ecu is all that good. I saw on a few dakota forums that the big power builds swap to megasquirt to get away from the oem ecu's limitations.
 
jos51700 said:
Why use Ford stuff instead of late-model Magnum stuff?:-k
Click to expand...

There seems to be LOTS of trouble with Mopars stuff.

Depending on what it's out of there's the steering column/ computer security issue, and last I knew, no good solution

The Ford stuff is INCREDIBLY popular, programmable, and in the case of a properly sized MAF system, very "self adapting" to cam and other changes.

Besides, it was free. I got interested in this a long time ago, (wishin) after reading about a guy called "EFI-CUDA" who put a Ferd system on his cuda. He modified a Ferd distributor to fit his SB 408. Since the Ferd rotates the wrong direction, it appears that there were no real issues with the triggering devices. (No mechanical advance in the dist, so not to worry there)

Some of EFI-Cuda (By the way if someone knows how to contact him.......................)

(His is MAF, not MAP)

He also discussed the "wrong" Ferd firing order, and evidently it's not that big a deal Turns out you cannot simply rewire the injectors to be "in the proper spot" to reflect the firing order. Remember, Ferd itself has two, the older 289/302 15426378, and the "newer one." HERE IS THE DEAL. The OLD Ford firing order IS THE SAME as Mopar!!!! That's right, draw it out. The difference is in how you diagram the cylinders.

http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=129925

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=7247.0

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Here's the thing on the firing order. If you have a Ferd EFI that uses the traditional 289/302 firing order, and not the newer "Winsor" or whatever, here's what you are looking at:

The chart shows Mopar cylinder numbering, Ford numbering, and the "actual" physical order in which the cylinders fire. AT the bottom, the Ford firing order which has been offset shows that it fires exactly the same. SEEMS to me the worst case thing would be you'd have to build a TDC mark for the Mopar no2 cylinder, then just think in termis of "Ferd"
 

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The Torker may be your best choice since it is a single plane. The MAP tap should come from a central location. ECU's typically average multiple MAP reading, I have not found that to be a problem with wild cams. The efi will give a better idle than a carb.

There are thread-in and press-in injector bungs. To be cheap, there are threaded brass compression fittings with correct ID to work.
 
KitCarlson said:
There are thread-in and press-in injector bungs. To be cheap, there are threaded brass compression fittings with correct ID to work.
Click to expand...

Could you give me a lead or two on these?

I do have a single plane, but I cannot tig. If I get it clean enough, I guess I could cut the holes, and have it tigged. Even that is gonna be at least a hundred, I'd bet.
 
That guy is clever. I also was worried how I would weld bungs to an aluminum manifold, like I have been thinking for my slant. Much simpler to tap a hole and screw in a brass fitting.
 
Another option if you have a lathe. Buy a weld-in kit on ebay, machine them down a bit, for press fit with a stop. I would think 0.002" larger than the drilled hole would be tight enough. Might be best to make a drill jig, for the drill press to keep the angles correct. Same jig could be used on the press.

When pressing in put some JB weld on as the lube/sealer. When done clean up the protrusion in the manifold ports.

Use mopar barrel keg fuel rails. Fabricate hold-down mounts.
 
KitCarlson said:
The barrel keg intake is the (someday) EFI plan for my 273. No hold-down mounts needed since the rails attach directly to bosses on the intake. The big concern is getting the hood to close. The intake bolt angles are another issue (not if Magnum heads), but I think do-able on my early 273 with "close to vertical" bolt holes.
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What, Bill, you thinking of putting Magnum heads on your 273?
 
I have a set of 30# injectors & matching mass air meter all brand new in box if you are interested when you get to that stage. PM me if interested. I'm getting ready to sell off my Ford stuff on CL soon.
 
67Dart273 said:
What, Bill, you thinking of putting Magnum heads on your 273?
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Nope. I read of cracks between the valve seats being common. Might consider aluminum Magnum heads, but haven't even looked for such due to cost. My thought is "bent studs" and a little grinding on the intake holes to fit. My holes are ~16 deg off vertical so doesn't require much bend. I don't think intake bolts require the torque specs in the manual, since an intake sucks (literally). There is a little water pressure force.

Currently, I have a 66+ Edelbrock alum manifold and just countersunk the holes to V them and used flat-head allen bolts. They are torqued maybe 20 ft-lbf. I got a little water hiss at the front, but re-torqued when hot and it went away.
 
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