Fresh Startup Procedure.

Discussion in 'Small Block Mopar Engine' started by WSUTARD, Apr 20, 2017 at 11:56 PM.

  1. WSUTARD

    WSUTARD Well-Known Member

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    Would love opinions on the startup procedure for a "sort of fresh" build. Details are, I pulled the engine just over a month ago. Changed the head gaskets and the cam/lifters. It has been sitting without oil for this entire time. I put plenty of cam lub on the cam when I installed it and two weeks later when I finally put the intake on. I'm also installing a recored radiator.

    Here is what I plan to do based on my reading.
    1. Fill with comp cams break in oil
    2. Pull plugs and squirt some break in oil in each cylinder.
    3. Pull valve covers to ensure oil is flowing during priming.
    4. Pull distributor and use a priming rod and a drill to prime the engine with oil.
    5. Hand crank engine while priming.
    6. Once I see oil dripping from the rockers on each side I will stop priming.
    7. Re install plugs and valve covers.
    8. Hand crank engine to TDC (0 degrees on my dampener)
    9. Reset distributor gear and distributor to point at #1 cylinder and #1 cap plug (hoping to get 0 advance or retard)
    10. Fire the engine...(or at least try)
    11. Check for leaks of stuff.
    12. Once engine is running, set timing advance to 10 degrees.
    13. Start cam break in (2200-2500 RPM for 30 minutes. Oscillating through the RPM range.

    Thoughts?
     
  2. yellow rose

    yellow rose Doctor of Thinkology.

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    Skip number 2. I can't think of a reason to add a detonation maker in a new cylinder.

    On number 8, set the crank to 36-40* BTDC and make the rotor line up with number 1 on the cap at FULL ADVANCE. New engines do NOT like retarded timing on the start. It will make a butt load of heat in the exhaust. I have seen guys stick exhaust valves that had plenty of clearance with retarded timing. I'd rather see 50* than what you want to do.

    Between 9 and 10 make sure the carb has fuel in it. Don't crank the starter to get fuel in the carb. If it's a Holley, pull the plug out of the fuel bowl and squirt fuel slowly down the vent until you see fuel in the bowls. If it's a Carter/Edelbrock I forget where the vent are.

    12. When the engine gets 140 degrees of water temp, pull the total back to 35-36*.

    You should be golden.
     
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    • WSUTARD

      WSUTARD Well-Known Member

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      I would love to not have to pull the plugs!

      When you say at "FULL ADVANCE" what do you mean?
       
    • krazykuda

      krazykuda FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member Technical Editor

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      When you first start the engine, make sure you get good oil pressure...

      check underneath for any leaks and address as needed...

      Then get it to idle until it's warm, then set timing to 34°-36° at 2000-2500 and start the cam break in....

      Keep an eye on temp gauge during cam break in to make sure you don't run too hot and over heat....
       
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      • 440DART1970

        440DART1970 1970 Dart 446ci Swinger

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      • nm9stheham

        nm9stheham Well-Known Member

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        You are a good learner, Wsutard.....

        Pull the plugs early on or you'll be fighting compression as you hand turn the crank while priming. You have to turn the crank about 10-15 degrees at a time and let it set for several seconds while priming to wait and see if you the oil coming up to the rockers; it takes a while once the cam is aligned.

        In step 8, don't put the valve covers on until after this step is done; when you put the crank at TDC, either #1 or #6 can be at the firing point. You have to look to see which of these 2 cylinders' valves are slightly open, and then line up the spark rotor on the OTHER cylinder. One will be at overlap at the end of the exhaust stroke and the other will be ready to fire at the end of the compression stroke.

        Then turn the crank to 10 degrees BTDC (10 degrees of ignition advance) and then adjust the distributor so that the trigger tooth is lined up at the small steel insert in the reluctor. You'll be close to on time with this technique.

        Step 9A: Go the bathroom
        Step 9B: Take a deep breath (after leaving the bathroom...). Then proceed to fire it up.
         
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        • Marcohotrod

          Marcohotrod Well-Known Member

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          no need to pull 8 spark plugs, just remove # 1 to set the crank at 35-40 degrees before top dead center on the compression stroke (thumb over the hole to feel) to install distrib with rotor pointing to the #1 wire on the cap. remove distrib and oil pump driveshaft to spin oil pump. pour gas into carb bowls. Do not idle to warm up! pump carb 3 times and hold throttle open about 1/4 and bring to 2000-2500 rpm. leave radiator cap off, to add water sooner rather than later
           
        • mario03srt

          mario03srt Hangin' with The Swamp Rat FABO Gold Member

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          All,

          I'm firing my newly rebuilt 360 tomorrow also, rain permitting. Does it matter if the oil pump prime is ran cw or ccw? All new components firing up for the first time. Engine, HEi Ign, FiTech, Elec Fans....Wish me luck everything has been checked and double checked and 12v power to everything. FiTech primes and give an initial squirt, controller is programmed. Woo Hoo!

          Wish me Luck! It's been a journey for sure!

          Thanks,
          Marion
           
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          • rustycowll69

            rustycowll69 Well-Known Member

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            you don't need to use a drill motor to prime the engine, a 1/4" speed handle works just fine, too. It will be very apparent when the oil passages line up, because you'll hear air being forced out of the oil passages, especially if you prime it by hand. If you choose to squirt oil in the cylinders, I just use a few DROPS of 2 cycle oil.
             
          • rustycowll69

            rustycowll69 Well-Known Member

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            yes, you must run in the correct rotation direction. Same as dist. rotation. For SB, it's CW.
             
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            • mario03srt

              mario03srt Hangin' with The Swamp Rat FABO Gold Member

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              KEWL, make sense...but I take nothing for granted, and this sight has all the inside scoop! I made need some valium!

              Marion
               
            • rustycowll69

              rustycowll69 Well-Known Member

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              something I've done in the past, is screw a cheap mech oil pressure gauge directly into the oil press sender hole by the dist. to make sure all the gallery plugs are in and oil pressure is as expected.
               
            • mario03srt

              mario03srt Hangin' with The Swamp Rat FABO Gold Member

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              rusty,

              I have a mech oil gage sourced right from there! Its in the car but should be the same

              Marion
               
            • jbc426

              jbc426 Well-Known Member

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              It is exciting, and stressful, but there is some good advice above. I like to have a fan blowing through the radiator. Setting the timing at 10 to 15 initial is good too. I also use a handheld lazer temp gun to verify temps, opening of the thermostat, even exhaust temp etc. Make sure nothing is too close to the exhaust.

              When spinning the oil pump, you will know if it's spinning in the right direction by comparing the rotation to your firing order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. It will also blow air into your sump if spun the wrong way, and you can hear that.

              Have a helper assist you with checking under the car for leaks and standing by with the towel, hose and extinguisher for a fuel fire.

              Speaking of hearing, I like to start my motors with full exhaust, so I can hear the motor noise easier.

              Make sure to have a garden hose with nozzle turned on and at hand, some good sized towels for carb fires and also a quality fire extinguisher as a last resort. It's hard to clean up the residue if you don't have a Halon extinguisher.
               
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              • WSUTARD

                WSUTARD Well-Known Member

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                Great advice everyone. I have a question for ensuring I am on #1 fire stroke. When I put in the new timing chain I ensured that #1 Compression TDC was aligned with the 0 on my dampener. It is my assumption that every time the dampener hits 0 that #1 is TDC on compression. Is this this case?
                 
              • rustycowll69

                rustycowll69 Well-Known Member

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                negative! each cylinder, including #1, travels thru TDC twice on a 4 stroke internal combustion engine. That means the crank spins two complete revolutions for every cycle of stroke events. So in short, when the timing mark on the dampener lines up with the timing mark on the timing cover it could happen at two distinctly different times, TDC on the compression stroke OR TDC on the exhaust stroke. Not to confuse you more, but that also happens on #6 cylinder only it's vice versa from whatever stroke #1 is on.
                 
              • WSUTARD

                WSUTARD Well-Known Member

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                Got it.
                 
              • mario03srt

                mario03srt Hangin' with The Swamp Rat FABO Gold Member

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                WSU,

                Every other 360 rotation it is at TDC.

                Pull the #1 plug and verify that the piston at the top. Its not easy to see so use a long stick or screwdriver to verify. Or as others will suggest keep your finger over the opening and when air is pushed against and pssst past you finger it is on the compression stroke. Tough to do solo though!

                Marion
                 
              • nm9stheham

                nm9stheham Well-Known Member

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                No, EVERY 360 degrees, it is at TDC. Every other 360 degrees, it is at TDC AND the cam is set for it to fire.
                 
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                • nm9stheham

                  nm9stheham Well-Known Member

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                  On one rotation, when the 0 mark on the damper is lined up (with the 0 mark on the timing cover), #1 is ready to fire. After the next full rotation, when the 0 mark on the damper lines up, #6 is ready to fire. And so it alternates back and forth between #1 and #6 being ready to fire after each full rotation aligns the 0 damper 0 mark with the 0 mark on the timing cover.

                  That is why you have to determine if #1 or #6 is ready to fire by looking at the valve positions of #1 and #6 when the damper 0 mark is lined up. ONLY after you have determined if it is #1 or #6 ready to fire, can you properly line up the distributor rotor. Go back to posts 6 and 16...(Lots of 1's and 6's here LOL)
                   
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                  • 73Swinger18

                    73Swinger18 ✱ⓈⓌⒾⓃⒼⒺⓇ

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                    Have your buddy watching the engine tell you if he hears a weird clicking noise instead of filming the destruction of the engine...
                     
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                    • WSUTARD

                      WSUTARD Well-Known Member

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                      What the hell? Don't video, check!
                       
                    • WSUTARD

                      WSUTARD Well-Known Member

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                      I get it now. Will make sure #1 is compression when I align the distributor.
                       
                    • MrJLR

                      MrJLR Built, not bought FABO Gold Member

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                      I 100% agree!

                      Jeff
                       
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                      • sireland67

                        sireland67 Well-Known Member

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                        Never stick a screwdriver, or stick in a cylinder, use a common drinking straw, so no damage will occur.
                         
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