Hey all. I was driving my 225 Swinger last week. Temps were in the 80's. After bout an hour of driving, I came to a red light. When I stopped the car shut off. I could not get it started. So I had to push it to the side of the road. Then I raised the hood to take a look around. I know this is bad and will change it soon, but I have a see through plastic fuel filter. I could see the fuel bubbling in it. So that got me thinking the car was getting vapor locked or something like that. After about 10 minutes it started and then I drove it home. Now afraid to drive more than 20 minutes at a time. Any idea whats going on? I know CHANGE THE FUEL FILTER FIRST!!!!! Thanks for all help.
Fuel bubbles?
- Thread starter HemiPar
- Start date
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Back in the day we would put wooded clothes hanger clips (to hang clothes on a cloths line out side) on the metal fuel line to keep the heat off the metal line and absorb heat off the line, If your gas is bubbling your fuel is getting hot for sure, Can you move your fuel line away from the block a bit ? I have seen the fuel line right up against a /6 engine before....
1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
You need to do the /6 fuel line mod. Total cost will be about $5 and take 20 minutes.
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15778
Thanks 340s. I was at the org looking for that thread and could not locate it. Now a trip to parts store for new line, fillter and fittings.
Mike, I remember the end of them days. I was in an auto class and the teacher telling us that trick. Never had to use it till now. The fuel line runs along the block in the metal line so that is where the issue may be. But thanks for all the help.
Mike, I remember the end of them days. I was in an auto class and the teacher telling us that trick. Never had to use it till now. The fuel line runs along the block in the metal line so that is where the issue may be. But thanks for all the help.
2 Darts
A-body Addicted
I have experienced the same thing with my 73 /6. In my case, it was caused by the fuel line between the chassis and the fuel pump collapsing (old fuel line hose). It's a cheap fix, too.
I did this to get more air around my fuel line, and yes, all I have to do to remove the valve cover is just remove a clamp and loosen the line to the pump.
Getting rid of as mush rubber line as possible
Getting rid of as mush rubber line as possible
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Seriously consider a "vapor return system." You can use a Wix fuel filter METAL which has a 1/4" orifice built into the filter for that very purpose.
You need to run the 1/4" line back to the tank. Also make SURE your tank is actually vented
Wix 33054:
or Wix 33040, for 5/16 and 33041, for 3/8 lines
You need to run the 1/4" line back to the tank. Also make SURE your tank is actually vented
Wix 33054:
or Wix 33040, for 5/16 and 33041, for 3/8 lines
slantsixdan
=..=
Clothespins won't get you anywhere; that's an old wive's tale. Metal fuel lines running directly above the exhaust manifold or cylinder head will move you in the wrong direction (more heat transfer to fuel through line).
Fuel line reroute is a good start; try the slant-6 fuel line mod for better insulation of the fuel against engine bay heat. Another thing you may want to do to combat the tendency of hot weather to aggravate conditions like this is to install a vapour-return system. It uses a 3-nipple fuel filter (Wix 33054 or NAPA Gold 3054, Purolator F20030); the 3rd is ¼" and has an 0.060" orifice to prevent bleeding off useful fuel pressure. You run a new vapour hose from that 3rd fitting all the way back to the fuel tank.
Also make sure the carburetor's in top condition. New float is a good idea; the Holley 1920 carburetor has a nitrophyll (foam) float that absorbs fuel over the years and grows heavy. Float is a Walker #100-14. Get the rebuild kit from www.daytonaparts.com , they have a better and more flood-resistant inlet needle/seat design. Carburetor operation and repair manuals (and some training movies) are posted here for free download; also see the threads linked off that post regarding 1920 dial-in.
Fuel line reroute is a good start; try the slant-6 fuel line mod for better insulation of the fuel against engine bay heat. Another thing you may want to do to combat the tendency of hot weather to aggravate conditions like this is to install a vapour-return system. It uses a 3-nipple fuel filter (Wix 33054 or NAPA Gold 3054, Purolator F20030); the 3rd is ¼" and has an 0.060" orifice to prevent bleeding off useful fuel pressure. You run a new vapour hose from that 3rd fitting all the way back to the fuel tank.
Also make sure the carburetor's in top condition. New float is a good idea; the Holley 1920 carburetor has a nitrophyll (foam) float that absorbs fuel over the years and grows heavy. Float is a Walker #100-14. Get the rebuild kit from www.daytonaparts.com , they have a better and more flood-resistant inlet needle/seat design. Carburetor operation and repair manuals (and some training movies) are posted here for free download; also see the threads linked off that post regarding 1920 dial-in.
bbrroowwnn
never re member
SSD, I know this is an old thread, but if I use this fuel filter, can I tee into the vent line that already comes up from the gas tank and goes to the charcoal canister? The extra orifice in the fuel filter just has vapor come out correct? It does not re-route actual fuel through it? If so, I believe I can just do it right in the engine compartment this way , correct? Or is this only on the Purolator 20030 filter?
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