fuel tank sending unit

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trudysduster

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I need a fuel tank sending unit for the 69 Plymouth valiant /6. For you guys with the factory books. Is this a 3/8" or 5/16' inlet. does it have a return and is the ohm rating a factor. I have found several with and some without a return. I have not gotten this in yet to check this. One stated a 10-80 ohms. thanks,Bill
 
I need a fuel tank sending unit for the 69 Plymouth valiant /6. For you guys with the factory books. Is this a 3/8" or 5/16' inlet. does it have a return and is the ohm rating a factor. I have found several with and some without a return. I have not gotten this in yet to check this. One stated a 10-80 ohms. thanks,Bill

5/16 with no return. (vent maybe)
No matter what almost anyone says replacing a sender and having it work right is a total throw caution to the wind crapshoot. (even with the correct ohm rating information. (70-10 is what I remember)

Just so you don't start thinking you did something wrong. :D
 
As far as we know, all repro senders are not calibrated correctly.
 
5/16 with no return. (vent maybe)
No matter what almost anyone says replacing a sender and having it work right is a total throw caution to the wind crapshoot. (even with the correct ohm rating information. (70-10 is what I remember)

Just so you don't start thinking you did something wrong. :D

ok, the one in there now shows right when full but when the tank is half full, it reads on empty. So I figured it was the sending unit. Any thoughts on the best brand. Spectra maybe. Thanks
 
ok, the one in there now shows right when full but when the tank is half full, it reads on empty. So I figured it was the sending unit. Any thoughts on the best brand. Spectra maybe. Thanks

Yea, so another one will probably have a different problem :D (Spectra is as good a gamble as any of them)


I think it's in the windings/resistance in the rheostat coils.

Probably, as well as material used and inconsistent spacing of the winding wire.
 
The repros have several things wrong:
1. The float arm is shorter and pivots at a different point, so the whole range of motion of both the float and the pointer is different.
2. The windings on the board are evenly spaced — they should be variably spaced to account for the big spare tire cutout in the top of the tank. So even if everything else was correct, they would not read correctly over the whole range of the gauge.
3. As shipped, the "full" point and the "empty" point are not calibrated correctly. One of these can be fixed by bending the float arm, but not both (see item #1).

People, save your original senders, even if they don't work. It is easier to rebuild an original and make it work than to make one of these repros even marginally useful.
 
The repros have several things wrong:
1. The float arm is shorter and pivots at a different point, so the whole range of motion of both the float and the pointer is different.
2. The windings on the board are evenly spaced — they should be variably spaced to account for the big spare tire cutout in the top of the tank. So even if everything else was correct, they would not read correctly over the whole range of the gauge.
3. As shipped, the "full" point and the "empty" point are not calibrated correctly. One of these can be fixed by bending the float arm, but not both (see item #1).

People, save your original senders, even if they don't work. It is easier to rebuild an original and make it work than to make one of these repros even marginally useful.
"Like, thanks, and agree!"
 
^^I don't know who on here suggested those. I bought one (my car is apart) and jigged it up on the bench They seem to work as advertised. Don't know what the "correction" range might be there has to be a limit.
 
I installed the meter match on my Demon 340. After trying 3 different sending units and getting close to the same issue each time. The meter match gives you the option to set up to 4 points, I only set the high and low to keep it simple. Now the reading while not perfect, is pretty darn close. I ran the tank close to empty and pumped the rest out with an elect. pump. Then I put 4 gal in and the needle went to @1/4 tank. Then I went to the gas station and filled it with @4gal. at a time, the gauge tracked pretty close. Maybe off a little but close enough for me, one other thing when I set empty or low I pumped it out from the sending unit. This way I knew when I ran out and not just where the float was. Then I added @1.5 gal and set the low point there to give me a little reserve. Good Luck!!
 
For those of you who have fitted an aftermarket sender unit in recent years, despite the inaccuracy, are they lasting ok?

Be interested to know if any one "brand" fails earlier than another.
 
I've had a reproduction purchased from Vans via ebay, in use for 6 or 7 years now w/ no problems.
I have seen pics of very cheaply built senders ( plastic float, etc.. ). I've heard tales of a few senders leaking fuel where the wire terminal passes through also.
 
For those of you who have fitted an aftermarket sender unit in recent years, despite the inaccuracy, are they lasting ok?

Be interested to know if any one "brand" fails earlier than another.

Three years with a Spectra and no problems, and over the weekend pulled it out and drilled it for a return line.
It has a brass float and a nice sock.
 
Three years with a Spectra and no problems, and over the weekend pulled it out and drilled it for a return line.
It has a brass float and a nice sock.

will make sure I get one from Spectra or Vansautollc. That one looked good too. Thanks
 
I have a very nice used 69 Date coded original recently removed from a running car and it worked fine.
Message me if your interested
 
thanks Moparparts - right now I'm waiting to receive the MeterMatch that I ordered - mya be a while, our post office is going on strike/being locked out at midnight tonight
 
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