Fusable Link

-
MOPARJ

MOPARJ

What can I upgrade now?
Joined
Nov 3, 2006
Messages
861
Reaction score
7
Location
Thousand Oaks, Ca
Once upon a time, about 8 months ago, I blew out the fusable link in the wiring harness of my 73 Duster. What I did was cut out the fusable link and spliced the two wires backed together. Everything fired up and worked again.

A few months later, I was reading the mad electrical site about the ammeter bypass and thought that it was a good idea, however, i didn't want to remove my gauge cluster, which I problems with keeping the night lights working on it, im guessing a wire is finicky. Then I was reading a back issue of Mopar Action and discovered a less intrusive alternative that requires running an addtional wire from the alternator to the battery. This is supposed to alleviate the stress on the ammeter greatly, as the majority of the power is sent through that direct wire to the battery. Ofcourse the ammeter reads well below normal now, but I use a voltmeter now and it usually regesters 12-14 volts.

Its been 6 months since I installed the wire and its been fine. Does anyone see a problem with this? How about the repair to the link? I don't know why the tech editor in Mopar Action would say this is a way to rid of the ammeter problem if it didn't actually help. What do you all think?
 
Going "ALT to BATT" is the best way for your charging current to be routed.

However, not having any tiype of fuse of fusible link is bad. It is there for a reason. At a minimum you should install an inline fuse there.

I ran a 4AWG cable from the ALT to the BATT, and removed the fusible link wire altogether. Instead, I installed two 8AWG wires from the BATT to the cars electircal system. Both have inline 60amp maxi fuses on them. One feeds the "full time" power, one feeds the "Ignition only" power.

I also have a signal wire that gives true battery voltage to the voltage regulator (instead of pulling false low voltage off the stock circuit).
 
I didn't use the link, mainly because the old one was history, of course, and I didn't have a lot of wire length left. I barely got the two wires close, enough though to crimp them together.

I am using either 10 or 12 gauge wire from the alternator to the battery, while still running the stock wire that runs to the ammeter. The only reason I run the stock wire is that it sends some juice through the voltage regulator and it powers the wiring harness and all of the accessories. Or does it?

Should I run a second wire from the alternator to the battery? Do they need to be thicker wire? Just want to get this straight, since I have all of my lights working now and i just installed a simple CD player with two 6 x9 speakers that get their power from a post in the fuse box that works in the "on" position. Additionally, I run my tach and extra gauge lights through the fuse box. Thanks....
 
there is a reason that fusible link burnt. you need to find that before some thing big shorts and you have a fire
 
Somewhere I read that a fusible link can be made from a short piece of wire that is 2 gauge sizes smaller than your wire is. Never tested that theory; I guess you could make up a dummy test wire to try it out by shorting it to ground and see if it pops?
 
Well, I know the ones that you buy need to be four wires different from what your working with. The fusible links come with extra thick stuff on the out side of it, maybe cause if burned in too it won't hurt stuff? Not sure, but yes I do believe it would work going smaller, just don't know how safe it may be.

Lee
 
moparlee said:
I agree with sweatybetty, find out why you burned it. Before you possible have no car.

I used fusible links in lot of places as you can see in this thread.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=20242
Click to expand...

I believe the reason I shorted it was my fault: I was playing with the headlight dimmer behind the dash and forgot to disconnect the battery. I did not fully reconnect the wires harness to the dimmer and I turned on the lights. The next thing I saw was sparks and I heard the link explode and that was it...no power. I'm pretty sure it was that, nothing else. Stupid me.

Can I purchase a link at the parts house and connect the two wires to it?
 
What size fusable link do i need for the original at the bulkhead connector? Can I connect the two old wires to it with no issues?

Also, should I run thicker than 12 gauge wire from the alt to the batt?

As a side question, would disconnecting the wires to the ammeter and connecting them help and work ok, or am I fine with the wire to the battery from the alternator?
 
By not replacing the fusable link you have defeated the factory safety for the harness, you need to find why it blowed and replace it. the new wire you ran to the battery also should have a fusible link.
 
What gage of a fusible link would be suitable for the link I need for the main feed wire that goes into the bulkhead? It is the wire without the link right now.

Since I have 10 or 12 gage running from the alt to the positive side of the battery, i will splice in a 14 or 16 gage fusible link for that. Should
I keep the wire routed directly to the batt, or should I route it to the battery side of the relay next to the battery. Does it matter at all?

Thanks for all of this very helpful information.....
 
I don't know positively what wire size your 73 Duster has on it MopaJ but my 68 Cuda has 10 ga. wire running from the alt. to the bulkhead connector and the fusible link coming out going to the battery is 16 ga. I don't think you need to go any bigger than 12 ga. wire for your extra wire. A 12 ga. wire will divert 20 plus amps so that's a big load off the system. It don't matter if you run the wire straight to the battery or the relay since the wire running from the relay going to the battery is 10 ga.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top