1971 Dart, L6, auto, 2Dr- need diagram for fuse block. Brake lights INOP but turn signals, hazards, and reverse OK. Temp and fuel gauge INOP but Speedo and Alternator gauge OK. I know about the "instrument cluster voltage regulator" that controls fuel and temp gauge so I've yet to check that (don't know how yet). There are about 3-4 wires from fuse block that lead to loose wires and behind cluster there are many electrical plugs not connected. ANY IDEAS OR HELP WILL BE APPRECIATED. THANKS!
Fuse Block Schematic HELPPP!
- Thread starter jayyzf
- Start date
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One thing at a time. Brake lights inop can be brake lamp switch at pedal or turn signal switch. Yes the turn signal switch can do everything else just fine yet disable the brake lights.
If you can state wire colors, connector types, etc.., we can probably finger out whats what. Posting pics usually work best.
Bottom line, the fuse block may not be relevant to any of these issues.
BTW factory service manuals for many models are free downloads.
If you can state wire colors, connector types, etc.., we can probably finger out whats what. Posting pics usually work best.
Bottom line, the fuse block may not be relevant to any of these issues.
BTW factory service manuals for many models are free downloads.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Download a service manual, free...........and I don't care if it HAS BEEN beat to death
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970088617
More stuff here
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
From the 71 service manual This came from MyMopar and does not use the 'dash' page numbers, so fuse index page 346, it's actually a Plymouth manual
Wiring diagram index is page 368. Instrument panel wiring for "standard cluster" is page 381, 382
Look at the bottom of your fuse panel. It will look exactly like the diagram. The three connections on the top left, all hooked together is power coming INTO the fuse panel from the KEY. This is "switched accessory" power, in other words, the three fuses on the left are only live when the key is in "run" or "accessory"
The next middle two on top, connected together ARE ALWAYS HOT. This is power coming INTO the panel from the ammeter direct, and is for stuff like brake and tail lights that do not go through the key
The far right fuse "is a trick." It will ONLY have power when............
the tail fuse is good
the headlight switch is in either park or headlights
the dash dimmer control is turned "somewhat left"
All three of the above must be "true"
With the fuse powered, all dimmer controlled dash lamps are fed out the bottom of the fuse on orange wires.
http://i59.tinypic.com/i3h26d.jpg
http://i60.tinypic.com/2mdj4ad.jpg
http://i57.tinypic.com/2q00pbb.jpg
Acess the brake light switch. One wire should be hot at all times. Depress the brake, the other wire should be hot. If this is the case, access the turn signal switch connector where that wire enters the steering column and make sure you have it there
This is page 382 in the manual, find the steering column and the long connector with a "point" on one end. The white wire at the "point" end is your brake light switch power. If you have it there and the lights do not work, the trouble is in the turn signal switch
Most "glaring" possibility is indeed the instrument regulator. You have a "non" Ralley dash, that is, no oil gauge? Then it plugs into the rear of the panel. A long rectangular box about 1 1/2" or so long by 3/4" or so wide
A quick fast check is to get under the hood, access the temp sender wire, and ground the wire with a clip lead. Turn the key to "run" and watch the gauge. It should immediately head for the "hot" side.
Best way is to photo or at least describe the connector. And notice the wire COLORS. This becomes fairly easy to run down on the diagram, again, page 381 or so in the manual
Here are two examples I cropped from the diagram. Look at the plugs, the SHAPE, and the wire colors. Examples, the two pin "L" shaped plug is for the flasher. There's a second one for your 4x flasher, but it will have different color wires. Notice the radio plug. It's "T" shaped, 2 pins, and ID'd by the wire colors. The orange wire is always for dash lights, and the radio has a pilot lamp
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970088617
More stuff here
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
From the 71 service manual This came from MyMopar and does not use the 'dash' page numbers, so fuse index page 346, it's actually a Plymouth manual
Wiring diagram index is page 368. Instrument panel wiring for "standard cluster" is page 381, 382
Look at the bottom of your fuse panel. It will look exactly like the diagram. The three connections on the top left, all hooked together is power coming INTO the fuse panel from the KEY. This is "switched accessory" power, in other words, the three fuses on the left are only live when the key is in "run" or "accessory"
The next middle two on top, connected together ARE ALWAYS HOT. This is power coming INTO the panel from the ammeter direct, and is for stuff like brake and tail lights that do not go through the key
The far right fuse "is a trick." It will ONLY have power when............
the tail fuse is good
the headlight switch is in either park or headlights
the dash dimmer control is turned "somewhat left"
All three of the above must be "true"
With the fuse powered, all dimmer controlled dash lamps are fed out the bottom of the fuse on orange wires.
http://i59.tinypic.com/i3h26d.jpg
http://i60.tinypic.com/2mdj4ad.jpg
http://i57.tinypic.com/2q00pbb.jpg
Acess the brake light switch. One wire should be hot at all times. Depress the brake, the other wire should be hot. If this is the case, access the turn signal switch connector where that wire enters the steering column and make sure you have it there
This is page 382 in the manual, find the steering column and the long connector with a "point" on one end. The white wire at the "point" end is your brake light switch power. If you have it there and the lights do not work, the trouble is in the turn signal switch
Most "glaring" possibility is indeed the instrument regulator. You have a "non" Ralley dash, that is, no oil gauge? Then it plugs into the rear of the panel. A long rectangular box about 1 1/2" or so long by 3/4" or so wide
A quick fast check is to get under the hood, access the temp sender wire, and ground the wire with a clip lead. Turn the key to "run" and watch the gauge. It should immediately head for the "hot" side.
Best way is to photo or at least describe the connector. And notice the wire COLORS. This becomes fairly easy to run down on the diagram, again, page 381 or so in the manual
Here are two examples I cropped from the diagram. Look at the plugs, the SHAPE, and the wire colors. Examples, the two pin "L" shaped plug is for the flasher. There's a second one for your 4x flasher, but it will have different color wires. Notice the radio plug. It's "T" shaped, 2 pins, and ID'd by the wire colors. The orange wire is always for dash lights, and the radio has a pilot lamp
Referring to your pic #1 above... What you have on one side of the fuse block is buss bars. The original piece was X inches or miles long ( who knows ) and could be chopped to various required lengths and always include a male tang where a supply wire is attached.
What your fuse box contains is a 3, a 2, and a 1, station bars. Just 1 wire attached to each supplies that bar.The factory could have clipped off those unused male tangs and apparently they should have, but it wasn't necessary. So there was and should be only 3 wires attached to 3 buss bars. One is hot at all times, one is hot at ign' switch on, and one ( the single station bar ) hot when park lamps are turned on.
So... Where you have additional wired added to this side of the fuse box is wrong, added by a previous owner to the not fused side.
Any additions should be fused. The other side of the fuse box is where branch circuits attach and are fuse protected.
What your fuse box contains is a 3, a 2, and a 1, station bars. Just 1 wire attached to each supplies that bar.The factory could have clipped off those unused male tangs and apparently they should have, but it wasn't necessary. So there was and should be only 3 wires attached to 3 buss bars. One is hot at all times, one is hot at ign' switch on, and one ( the single station bar ) hot when park lamps are turned on.
So... Where you have additional wired added to this side of the fuse box is wrong, added by a previous owner to the not fused side.
Any additions should be fused. The other side of the fuse box is where branch circuits attach and are fuse protected.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Both the wires you show appear to have been added. The red has a non-original connector
Read what Red said above.
The red coming out and down is hooked to the "3 fuse buss." In the diagram, that is at top left. THAT BUSS is your "accessory" power coming IN from the IGNITION SWITCH, fed by a black wire. It will only be hot with the switch in "run" or in "accessory."
I cannot see where the yellow comes to or from
Read what Red said above.
The red coming out and down is hooked to the "3 fuse buss." In the diagram, that is at top left. THAT BUSS is your "accessory" power coming IN from the IGNITION SWITCH, fed by a black wire. It will only be hot with the switch in "run" or in "accessory."
I cannot see where the yellow comes to or from
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I cannot figure out the bottom fuse. In the rear view, it looks like there is no connection (clip). But in the front view, there is a clip there?? Or is that light shining through from the rear?
EDIT. Might just be the photos but what I can see, those fuse clips appear to be in BAD shape. Probably heat weakened, and rusty..................
EDIT. Might just be the photos but what I can see, those fuse clips appear to be in BAD shape. Probably heat weakened, and rusty..................
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