I think you're right. I think the aftermarket ones are all seeming to be shorter or different. I am going to take the original one out of the other tank that was a little longer and put it in. And see if it functions better way its supposed to be. I originally bought a new 1 just to have a nice sending unit the other one had a crack on the filler tube. But I did JB weld it and sealed it I think I will give it a try.
Gas gauge woes..
- Thread starter Ruger64
- Start date
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I think you're right. I think the aftermarket ones are all seeming to be shorter or different. I am going to take the original one out of the other tank that was a little longer and put it in. And see if it functions better way its supposed to be. I originally bought a new 1 just to have a nice sending unit the other one had a crack on the filler tube. But I did JB weld it and sealed it I think I will give it a try.
64ragtop
Well-Known Member
The important thing to know is if you have a sender with the correct resistance range between full and empty.
Approximate sender resistances are:
L = 73.7 Ohms (empty)
M = 23.0 Ohms (1/2)
H = 10.2 Ohms (full)
(from post # 15 above)
If you have a Volt Ohm meter, it's easy to check for these values. Without knowing what your sender resistance is, it's real difficult to determine if you have the correct sender. If you got your new sender at an auto parts store, MAYBE they have a meter and someone who knows how to use it. Then you could check for the proper numbers at the store. I'm sure you know that "quality control" is a fast disappearing factor in manufacturing these days, and it's not uncommon for a part to be in the wrong box, either. If the resistance numbers are wrong, no amount of bending the float rod is going to give you good feel gauge readings.
Speaking of manufacturing, a difference in specs of a couple of gallons doesn't surprise me at all. What matters is if the tank fits into the car as it should and the filler tube enters the tank properly. (Don't forget the grommet! Get a new one, because the fuel additives used today will eat the old ones)
We're waiting on your next progress report.
ATB
BC
Approximate sender resistances are:
L = 73.7 Ohms (empty)
M = 23.0 Ohms (1/2)
H = 10.2 Ohms (full)
(from post # 15 above)
If you have a Volt Ohm meter, it's easy to check for these values. Without knowing what your sender resistance is, it's real difficult to determine if you have the correct sender. If you got your new sender at an auto parts store, MAYBE they have a meter and someone who knows how to use it. Then you could check for the proper numbers at the store. I'm sure you know that "quality control" is a fast disappearing factor in manufacturing these days, and it's not uncommon for a part to be in the wrong box, either. If the resistance numbers are wrong, no amount of bending the float rod is going to give you good feel gauge readings.
Speaking of manufacturing, a difference in specs of a couple of gallons doesn't surprise me at all. What matters is if the tank fits into the car as it should and the filler tube enters the tank properly. (Don't forget the grommet! Get a new one, because the fuel additives used today will eat the old ones)
We're waiting on your next progress report.
ATB
BC
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