Gauges 1966 temp/gas part missing

[Capt46]

Made my own heatsink

 

[Capt46]

I also soldered the pins to ensure better contact

 

[cosgig]

You can buy the new tach board to replace your old transistor board, and it fits ight into the tach can and wires up to the factory wiring! I have it in my car!!! I'll bet that's the problem!

 

[66fyssh]

Nice work!! Glad you're gauges are up and running. Probably not necessary to drill out the rivets and remove the old regulator if they weren't working. I did it with mine just following the steps @Pete in NH provided me.

View attachment 1715020971 View attachment 1715020972 HURRAY'',,,,,,,,,,,,,,EVERTHING IS IN WORKING ORDER NOW EXCEPT TACH!
Thank you all for the assistance see my work as copied from 66fyssh I just added more grounds,

 

[Capt46]

Nice work!! Glad you're gauges are up and running. Probably not necessary to drill out the rivets and remove the old regulator if they weren't working. I did it with mine just following the steps @Pete in NH provided me.

Great Help thank you!

You can buy the new tach board to replace your old transistor board, and it fits ight into the tach can and wires up to the factory wiring! I have it in my car!!! I'll bet that's the problem!

hey Cos, where would I find the board?

 

[cosgig]

Great Help thank you!

hey Cos, where would I find the board?

I think Instrument Specialties sells them now, they used to be sold by another company, but are widely available now!! Does your car have the tach can? It's mounted up under the dash on the left side, on the kick panel! It's a round gold colored can, looks like a tuna can!!

 

[RedFish]

View attachment 1715020971 View attachment 1715020972 HURRAY'',,,,,,,,,,,,,,EVERTHING IS IN WORKING ORDER NOW EXCEPT TACH!
Thank you all for the assistance see my work as copied from 66fyssh I just added more grounds,

If it works for a while as is... fine. If/when new problems arise, Your heat sink appears to be sitting on top of copper traces ( those are substituted for wire ). Only isolation is a thin layer of blue ink. Short circuits highly possible.

 

[Capt46]

I think Instrument Specialties sells them now, they used to be sold by another company, but are widely available now!! Does your car have the tach can? It's mounted up under the dash on the left side, on the kick panel! It's a round gold colored can, looks like a tuna can!!

Yes 3 wire can just above kick panel, drivers side

 

[Capt46]

If it works for a while as is... fine. If/when new problems arise, Your heat sink appears to be sitting on top of copper traces ( those are substituted for wire ). Only isolation is a thin layer of blue ink. Short circuits highly possible.

Thought that out also it's been moved just above the circuit board. Thanks good thought.

 

[pbiggs]

Here's something to consider concerning the inoperable tach. The tach on my 66 was inoperable when I got it. Turns out the sending unit and the tach electronics were fine. The problem was a sticking gauge needle/hand. The hand can be adjusted to relieve the bearing pressure. I added a miniscule
amount of clock oil and it's been working ever since. While the instrument cluster is out, add a drop or two of oil to the speedometer bearing housing where the speedometer cable screws onto the housing. (there is a small oil port for oiling)

 

[cosgig]

Here's something to consider concerning the inoperable tach. The tach on my 66 was inoperable when I got it. Turns out the sending unit and the tach electronics were fine. The problem was a sticking gauge needle/hand. The hand can be adjusted to relieve the bearing pressure. I added a miniscule
amount of clock oil and it's been working ever since. While the instrument cluster is out, add a drop or two of oil to the speedometer bearing housing where the speedometer cable screws onto the housing. (there is a small oil port for oiling)

And, I was told by the guy who owned Real Time Engineering to ONLY use Slick 50 "1" lube, anything else will ruin the tach!!