Got a 383, need advice from my FABO brothers

[matthon]

OK, I am picking up a 383 tomorrow, bored .030, new pistons, cam, lifters, assembled, with 9:1 compression.
He is going to give me 915 or 516 heads, my choice, but they need a rebuild.
I also get the balancer, timing cover, water pump, cast iron intake, oil pan, and a really nice engine stand, (I asked if he would add it to the deal and he said ok).
This is all for $700.

The goal is to pull my tired 383 and put it away, and have a potent street engine that runs on pump gas.

So, here is where I really need help:

1) Should I take the 915s over the 516s?
2) Would I get more bang for the buck having the heads rebuilt, buying new heads, or buying aluminum heads? I do not want to break the bank on heads.
3) Where is a good place to buy a timing chain? I honestly don't remember if it was on the engine.
4) I want to buy a new flywheel, bearing, and clutch, where is a good place to get these?
5) Do the 383 cranks all have the ability to accept a 4 speed? I know some Chebby cranks did not.
6) The only place I have found BB motor mounts is eBag, anyone know of another place?

My bell housing broke where the Z bar bracket bolts on, and I have another one, so that has to come out, and I need to do the clutch, now I found an engine, so everything needs to come out.
I am not sure I have the know how to pull the K frame out and deal with the torsion bars, but I have pulled many motors the traditional way.

I am thinking about whether or not I want to pay someone to put the rest of the engine together, or go through the bs of doing it myself. I know it is not difficult, just time consuming and I do not have all of the right tools.

I want to order the parts I need asap, so I can get started, so any thoughts or input it greatly appreciated.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Build the 915s. Bigger exhaust valve.....maybe. Only if they are the 1967 casting or if someone installed the 1.74 exhaust valves in non HP 915 heads.

 

[matthon]

The 915 heads with the 1.74 valves have the same casting number as the 915 heads with the 1.60 valves- the part numbers are different: 2806762 and 2806019.
So are the part numbers on the heads?
Otherwise I am not sure I would be able to tell the difference, or the size of the valves.
He also asked if I wanted open chamber or closed chamber, but from what I can find both the 915s and 516s are closed- and he suggested I take the open.
What am I missing here?
He knows his stuff, so if something sounds wrong it is probably me not understanding- but the part numbers/casting numbers above I looked up.

FYI: that pic of that orange haired whatever is freaking me out.

 

[67valiant 100]

Both 915 & 516 heads are closed chamber and will more than likely not have harden seats for todays gas. If you put new seats in than you can build which ever head you want because you can put bigger valves in along with the seats.

 

[mopar340dave]

OK, I am picking up a 383 tomorrow, bored .030, new pistons, cam, lifters, assembled, with 9:1 compression.
He is going to give me 915 or 516 heads, my choice, but they need a rebuild.
I also get the balancer, timing cover, water pump, cast iron intake, oil pan, and a really nice engine stand, (I asked if he would add it to the deal and he said ok).
This is all for $700.

The goal is to pull my tired 383 and put it away, and have a potent street engine that runs on pump gas.

So, here is where I really need help:

1) Should I take the 915s over the 516s?
2) Would I get more bang for the buck having the heads rebuilt, buying new heads, or buying aluminum heads? I do not want to break the bank on heads.
3) Where is a good place to buy a timing chain? I honestly don't remember if it was on the engine.
4) I want to buy a new flywheel, bearing, and clutch, where is a good place to get these?
5) Do the 383 cranks all have the ability to accept a 4 speed? I know some Chebby cranks did not.
6) The only place I have found BB motor mounts is eBag, anyone know of another place?

My bell housing broke where the Z bar bracket bolts on, and I have another one, so that has to come out, and I need to do the clutch, now I found an engine, so everything needs to come out.
I am not sure I have the know how to pull the K frame out and deal with the torsion bars, but I have pulled many motors the traditional way.

I am thinking about whether or not I want to pay someone to put the rest of the engine together, or go through the bs of doing it myself. I know it is not difficult, just time consuming and I do not have all of the right tools.

I want to order the parts I need asap, so I can get started, so any thoughts or input it greatly appreciated.

Either head will work fine. rebuild with hardened exhaust seats and you'll be set.
www.440source.com

 

[matthon]

Here is the block. I opted to not get the heads he had, so at this point I am not sure what heads to use- any ideas?

So, is the crank forged or cast?

I do not think the crank will accept the input shaft of the 4 speed, it doesn't seem deep enough. I have not taken my engine out, and this is the first 383 I've dealt with. Some say to cut the shaft, but I don't like that idea, so what is the correct way to solve this? Good or bad, I need to know.

 

[furz4]

Remove the crank and take to machine shop and have it bored for a pilot bushing. You can double check the bearing clearances when you re-assemble. Since you just have the short block on the stand would be easy to do it the right way.

 

[67valiant 100]

Looks to be a forged crank, in facted I amost think all 383s had forged cranks while 400s got cast.