Half dead or dead ignition...

-
Moparbaker

Moparbaker

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2017
Messages
155
Reaction score
45
Location
South Sweden
What a quiz...
1: When I instal my new "MSD Blaster 2" ignition coil & keeping the old module/box the engine olny runs a few seconds & the box gets a little warm, with original coil the box stays cold.
2: So I instal a new "Standard" box in & then it doesn't start at all!
3: I instal the old coil & box again & it starts & runs fine...

I reckon that the new module is dead, that's for sure, but what module does the MSD coil reqquire?
Obviously the old (also a china-made "Standard") box can only take the old no special coil.

The engine is a -89 318 out of a van with only alu intake & shorty headers.
 
Just got told that the MSD coil shouldn't have any resistor, could that be the problem?
Anybody else who use MSD Blaster 2 coil with original module?
Any thoughts?
 
Last edited:
Cool, thanx Demonic!
& that looks like this:

Capture2.jpg
 
Last edited:
The ignition box case needs to be grounded well. If not grounded then it will not fire.

The above image is for points ignition, you have electronic. What coil part number do you have on the car?
 
The image says "from points or amplifier trigger", does both those include points Dano?
 
Installed the MSD coil & let the old module stay & disconnected the resistor & connected those leads too, & the engine starts & cuts out after a while, just like when the resistor was connected... Only difference was that when the engine still ran I felt the module stayed cold & then it died.

Earlier today I drove the car with the old stuff & it didn't die then & now all I did was switch coil & by-passed the resistor. & the old orange box is china made too...

x ign 2.JPG
 
Last edited:
How many pins does your "module" have under the connector?
If it has 5 pins then it needs it's own supply ballast.
But if it has only 4 pins, then the voltage reduction happens inside the box, and no external ballast is required.
In either case, that module is nothing but a glorified amplifier, that changes the output of the magnetic trigger, to a signal almost exactly like the coil would be seeing as if the car had points.
And the coil needs it's own different ballast, matched to the coil. This is to prevent the overheating of the "module".
So then you have the right diagram.

By the way; I see your hi-tension wires in a loom side by side. This is usually a poor practice. Make absolutely sure your numbers 5 and 7 are not side by side in the loom as induction firing can occur in some wiresets.
The blasterII coil, in order to do it's job, draws more current than the stock coil. It may simply be overheating your ignition circuit.
What I would do is power that coil up with battery voltage, thru a 12ga power supply wire, still piped thru the ballast, and triggered by the key on. The signal side off the negative coil terminal can remain the same, but at least 14ga.

But I gotta tell ya, for your combo, I doubt the blaster will make any difference to your engine, over a good working oem coil; not as to power, nor fuel-economy, nor as to starting.
But it sure looks purdy.
 
"Number 5 & 7" as in sparkplug wires? (they're al separated) Or some other number on some diagram?
& it's a 4-pin box.

Would be interesting to know if someone has run original box with MSD coil...
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top