Harmonic balancer 340

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Thanks everybody. Rookie at this. I ran a tap in the crank and vacummed the threaded hole. Chased the bolt with a die and lubed everything with never seize. Pulled the damper for inspection and used a installer tool to pull it right in place. Just got to tighten the bolt and maybe in a day or two have this cuda rolling.
 
I don't know if that bolt can take 135# with anti-seize, and not lose it's elasticity.The spec is for lightly oiled. I mentioned this in an earlier post.
Also, with anti-seized threads,bolts sometimes lose their torque, and back out.I think that may be due to the over-torque having stretched the bolt. I'm not saying this will happen to you, only that it has happened occasionally to me, and not on this particular bolt. Never-seize is a great product, when used as intended.
 
Very glad to hear it went in so well....! Was not sure that was going to clean up well.

I can see using the anti-seize in this case of crapped up threads, the first time with pulling it in. Easy enough to use some solvent or kero to clean out the excess anti-seize, since it is a blind hole. We put ours in dry. The 135 ft-lbs or torque and the interference fit on the crank snout are there to make sure the crank is mechanically coupled solidly to the damper so it can actually do its job of sucking up certain crank vibrations.
 
I got it to torque the 135. I hope the anti seize won't matter. I have already got the pulleys on and they line up great. Installing new griffin radiator tomorrow and should have it going again.
 
So I was correct in your other thread when I told you that you needed ac pulleys from 70 up, and the cast crank balancer made no difference? Glad you got it together.
 
Cool, glad you got it straighnted out, this is a great site with a lot of helpful people on it!
 
We'll more problems with car. Fired it up today and had a screaming sound coming from around the balancer. Can't see anything rubbing. Any ideas? It wasn't making any sounds before I pushed it in further.
 
IMA thinkin the oil-flinger is on backwards. If it's rubbing on the chain, I suppose it could scream.
I've never tried it, but you might be able to see it through the fuel pump tunnel.
Unless the crank pulley is rubbing on something, which is more likely
 
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We'll here is what the noise was. The dust cover on the harmonic balancer was out of round and rubbing on cover. Straightened it and took a dremel with a sanding wheel and cleaned the inside good
 
If you have a new Felpro gasaket set, look for a fat felt ring. It is supposed to go inside that cavity and fits round the damper hub, and is there to help absorb any oil that seeps past the seal.

Glad it was that easy!

BTW, notice that the ribber ring between the damper hub and outer ring is cracked in several places. That may reduce the damper's effectiveness. The damper works by absorbing certain vibrations from the crank into that rubber ring. When it gets old and hard, it is less effective. Plus the glue that holds the outer ring and rubber ring onto the hub dries out.

You may be a good candidate for a new damper. Professional Products makes an affordable one for stock replacement. We replaced our '68 273 damper just on principle as we want a long term reliable street engine. The old one was usable but had the rubber ring cracked and hard.
 
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