Headers or Manifolds for a 67 4spd Cuda

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Guys I am a bit confused. I was reading the installation instructions from the TTI website and it reads for installing a set of headers to remove the torsion bars first. I am not understanding why I would need to remove the torsion bars? Also if its true to install the headers on a car with the motor and tranny in it that removing the torsion bars is neccasary what if (like in my situation) I am installing the motor and possibly the tranny at the same time. Can I lay and then tie the headers in the engine bay in their location before installing the motor? Sorry for all the questions but this is my first time messing with a muscle car, LOL. I come from a truck family. Thanks for all the helpful info:)
 
Some headers capture the torsion bars, while in other cases there just isn't enough room to snake them in with the bars in place.
 
I run the set up and it works great. I have the shumaker mounts on an SB K frame, TTI 2" headers with there 3" X exhaust system. A883 4spd with a Lakewood bell. You HAVE to use TTI's Z bar and it works great. If you remove the torsion bars you can install the headers after you install the engine. Yes you can tie the headers to the sides and install the engine that way too. TTI's capture the starter so use a mini for easier removal if you ever need to get it out. If you seperate the steering knuckle joint it makes it easier to install the headers after the engine is in place. You cannot run power steering there just is not enough room for the box with hoses. I dont find manual steering to be any hassell myself but I am the only one that drives my car. I need to add that I had to releave the front side of the Z bar where the clutch rod mounts to clear the starter, for some reason I couldnt get enough travel out of it, I talked to Sam at TTI and he couldnt give me a reason at the time so I ground on it a bit and it has worked perfect since.
 
I found the pics I took. Yes I know it was leaking a terrible amount of oil and it was my fault... note to self, when taking an engine off the shelf that has sat for 20+ years replace valve cover gaskets before installing in car...
The mini starter actually sticks out and interferes with the Z bar travel, you can see the area in yellow I marked as I was trial fitting it, removing grinding some and installing, removing and grinding... It might just be the mini starter itself and no fault of the Z bar, but I did have to remove the starter once and I was glad I opted for the mini, the header still has to be unbolted and left hanging loose as it would be to remove either size starter from the car but the mini is so much easier to handle in that situation.
 

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I would like to see that....if I thought all I had to do was modify or even buy another Z shaft without changing the #7 tube......I would have done it.

seeing is believing.....does TTi have any pics?
 
HemiDenny said:
I would like to see that....if I thought all I had to do was modify or even buy another Z shaft without changing the #7 tube......I would have done it.

seeing is believing.....does TTi have any pics?
Click to expand...

I dont understand, am I missing something? He was questioning running a 440 on an SB K frame with shumaker mounts and a 4 speed? Right? It is exactly my combination.
 
one bad I am going to send you a pm asking some of your specific part list.

Thank you
 
For what it is worth, I have a bb 67, Schumacher headers bought and they shipped them to Accurate exhaust, who modified the headers for a 4 speed, and sent me the headers and their exhaust kit.
Everything else is stock, starter, z-bar, and the headers go in and out without removing anything but the plugs.
It saved me time, and money, and everything came in a giant box with all the hangers. Headers mounted right to the exhaust- done!
 
Manual steering.
And I would also need to remove the z-bar to get the headers out.
 
matthon said:
For what it is worth, I have a bb 67, Schumacher headers bought and they shipped them to Accurate exhaust, who modified the headers for a 4 speed, and sent me the headers and their exhaust kit.
Everything else is stock, starter, z-bar, and the headers go in and out without removing anything but the plugs.
It saved me time, and money, and everything came in a giant box with all the hangers. Headers mounted right to the exhaust- done!
Click to expand...

Wow that's what I want to do.If you don't mind me asking?what was the price? Thanks Matthon,and how long ago didyou do this?
 
If memory serves me, which sometimes it does not, it was roughly $1,600 for everything to my door.
You have to select mufflers, turn down tailpipes or not, and what headpipes.

It was a good chunk of change, but it was definitely well worth it.

I just checked, and they are having 10% off right now.

The exhaust is aluminized, and I painted the headers with grill paint, the barbecue kind.

All ordered and installed last year, and the headers are not rusted.
I actually had to heat the one header up to make a small clearance dent, very minor- it was red hot and there was no damage to the paint.
 
matthon said:
If memory serves me, which sometimes it does not, it was roughly $1,600 for everything to my door.
You have to select mufflers, turn down tailpipes or not, and what headpipes.

It was a good chunk of change, but it was definitely well worth it.

I just checked, and they are having 10% off right now.

The exhaust is aluminized, and I painted the headers with grill paint, the barbecue kind.

All ordered and installed last year, and the headers are not rusted.
I actually had to heat the one header up to make a small clearance dent, very minor- it was red hot and there was no damage to the paint.
Click to expand...

Thank you Matthon
Matthon as I am reading your reply ,I picture Al Bundy replying to my message.Everybody likes Al. accept for his own family anyway!
 
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