Help 10 inch brake drum

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tekslk

tekslk

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Just got a drum from a friend tonight and the studs that the lug nuts go on are lose, he said just tack weld the studs to tighten things up, this doesnt sound to kosher to me but would it work or what are my other choices to tighten those studs.
 
tekslk said:
Still looking for help, please.
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Overall, it really does not matter as long as they stay in the hole long enough to get the wheel on, and not push out.
How solid they are does not hold the wheel once the nuts are on and tight.
I'm sure someone will chime in with a totally different and horrible possibilities reason that it is critical that they be tight in the drum.:D

The only thing it may affect, is the wheel might be slightly off center, but I kinda doubt it since there are five of them to help center it.
And I have seen my share of loose ones.
 
Hold the phone!!!!

Explain what you mean by "loose studs" Is this on the rear axle, front hub, or what?

(The studs are not held by the drum, they are held by the hub or axle)

Many front hub/ front drum assemblies have the studs "riveted" (swaged) on the outer side to keep the drum tight on the hub. I've never figured out why they do that, there is no need, and the rears are not done that way.

On the rear, the studs should be tight in the axle flange, and the drum slips on.
 
Its front drum, and the hold hub is loose , should I tack it in place or just tighten it up with the wheel?
 
IMholding the phone, it is the front one, should I tack it fast or just put the drum and wheel on and use it that way
 
I forgot.....Before you weld them in, add a washer and nut to each stud and tighten so they're flush & centered against the hub.
 
tekslk said:
Thats kinda what I wanted to here. Thanks alot.
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I pull the drum and hub assembly with the steel wheel off together and tack weld them from the back. That way you can still replace the drum if need be and the wheel being bolted on makes sure the studs are centered.
 
You'll warp the drum too, but go right ahead.

"and the wheel being bolted on makes sure the studs are centered."

This was my point in saying as long as they stay in to put the wheel on.
They center up anyway, and are not going anywhere.
 
TrailBeast said:
You'll warp the drum too, but go right ahead.

"and the wheel being bolted on makes sure the studs are centered."

This was my point in saying as long as they stay in to put the wheel on.
They center up anyway, and are not going anywhere.
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The reason I started doing them as an assembly is because an idiot at the service station tried to take the lug off the wrong direction and it was try to cut the nuts or break the studs. The mechanic pulled the assembly and tack welded it and it worked perfectly. I was 16 at the time. I have had this done many of these this way in my lifetime and never damaged a drum.

You are tack welding the back side of the hub and if you are doing it correctly you won't warp the drum because it is sandwiched between the iton hub and the steel wheel. Any heat that could be drawn from the stud will transfer to the steel wheel because it acts as a heat sink. I have the pros do mine because I can't weld worth a crap. As a matter of fact we just did my car dolly about a year ago and I have original Mopar ralley painted wheels on it and it didn't have enough heat to change the factory argent paint dark.

I have seen some people try it without the wheel and the lugnuts didn't seat correctly when the wheel was put on the car.

I have also seen the studs so crooked where the wheel wouldn't even go back on.
 
Ah, got it.
I thought your were talking about the style that the studs are pressed in the drum, not the hub.:D

"I have also seen the studs so crooked where the wheel wouldn't even go back on"
Holy hell, I've never seen anyone screw one up that bad.



Oklacarcollecto said:
The reason I started doing them as an assembly is because an idiot at the service station tried to take the lug off the wrong direction and it was try to cut the nuts or break the studs. The mechanic pulled the assembly and tack welded it and it worked perfectly. I was 16 at the time. I have had this done many of these this way in my lifetime and never damaged a drum.

You are tack welding the back side of the hub and if you are doing it correctly you won't warp the drum because it is sandwiched between the iton hub and the steel wheel. Any heat that could be drawn from the stud will transfer to the steel wheel because it acts as a heat sink. I have the pros do mine because I can't weld worth a crap. As a matter of fact we just did my car dolly about a year ago and I have original Mopar ralley painted wheels on it and it didn't have enough heat to change the factory argent paint dark.

I have seen some people try it without the wheel and the lugnuts didn't seat correctly when the wheel was put on the car.

I have also seen the studs so crooked where the wheel wouldn't even go back on.
Click to expand...
 
TrailBeast said:
Ah, got it.
I thought your were talking about the style that the studs are pressed in the drum, not the hub.:D

"I have also seen the studs so crooked where the wheel wouldn't even go back on"
Holy hell, I've never seen anyone screw one up that bad.
Click to expand...

If you ever saw the guy do anything then did it you would understand. I would be afraid to let him air up a tire. His idea of rust repair was a metal oil can, pop rivets and bondo. If the can wasn't big enough for the patch then he would rivet cans together.
 
Thanks everyone. I put washers on tonight flipped it over and spot welded it, It has to be strait with the lugs on didnt use the drum so nothing can be warped, everything should be ok for assembly, after I have drums trued tomorrow. thanks again.
 
Good work. I hope the studs were RH thread. I would never put LH threads when fixing studs since too many tire monkeys mess up and spin the studs in the hub. They won't tell you and you find out when trying to replace a tire on the side of the road (stud just spins). Also (for others), consider the length of the studs since you might need longer ones for mag wheels someday.
 
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