Help - Energy Susp Strut Rod/LCA Bushings

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71Demon340

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I have installed the Energy Suspension bushings on the lower control arm shaft and on the strut rod at the K-member. Problem seems to be that the strut rod bushings are too thick. When I install and tighten everything, the thickness of the strut rod bushings seem to put the strut rod in a bind against the LCA. This is causing the LCA shaft to pull out of the bushing in the LCA. I even tried cutting down the thickness of the inside strut rod bushing, but it still causes the shaft to pull out, though not quite as much. Anyone had this problem? I'm to the point where I just want to buy some stock rubber strut rod bushings, but I can't find them anywhere.
 
While I dont know about the aftermarket parts I'm trying to picture your problem and wondering... Do you have the lower arms dropped down much lower than they could with everything else bolted up ? The upper arm against its bump stop sets the limit of travel.
 
71Demon340 said:
I have installed the Energy Suspension bushings on the lower control arm shaft and on the strut rod at the K-member. Problem seems to be that the strut rod bushings are too thick. When I install and tighten everything, the thickness of the strut rod bushings seem to put the strut rod in a bind against the LCA. This is causing the LCA shaft to pull out of the bushing in the LCA. I even tried cutting down the thickness of the inside strut rod bushing, but it still causes the shaft to pull out, though not quite as much. Anyone had this problem? I'm to the point where I just want to buy some stock rubber strut rod bushings, but I can't find them anywhere.
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For the strut rods use the 2 piece rubber Moog 7040, ( might have this number backwards..4070??), and OE rubber LCA bushings. You need a good shop press to install the LCA bushings.

In my case, I returned the poly LCA bushings. Just Suspension has specific pins that match the poly's. I also have a set of poly strut rod bushings, but they looked like too much work. I only want to do this once.

Jim
 
Redfish - I'm not sure I understand what your asking, but I don't think the up and down movement of the control arms has anything to with my problem. Picture the strut rod with a thick bushing on the end against the k-member. This thick bushing is essentially making the strut rod too long causing it to push on the end of the LCA. This in turn pushes the whole lower control arm toward the rear of the car. When the LCA nut is tightened it actually pulls the bolt/shaft out of the LCA bushing. Another way to picture it is since the strut rod is too long (due to thick bushing), it won't allow the LCA to fit close enough to the backside of the k-member. Then when tightening the LCA nut, instead of pulling the whole LCA to the k-member it just pulls the bolt/shaft out of the bushing. This leaves an unwanted gap between the "flange" on the bolt/shaft and the face of the bushing.
 
OK, I cant argue cause I dont know. I do know as the lower arm pivots the attached strut rod would push or pull the lower arm per geometry. Good luck
 
71Demon340 said:
Actually found an online article. This is exactly what I'm talking about.

http://users.erols.com/mathewg/bushings.html

They even make adjustable strut rods.
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I was about to post that link when I started reading this thread, but see that you have already found it. I used an American Muscle aluminum strut rod that is about 3/8" shorter and cut about another 1/4" off the bushing.
 
the a body energy sr bushings are designed after b/e body ones. they are about 3/8" thicker.
 
If you don't trim them down, you'll have a bugger of a time getting the torsion bars in. No to mention really bad caster issues.
 
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