So i went to install my intake rpm air gap. Can get one side lined up but other side is out maybe 1/4 inch. Has anyone ran into this problem I'm guessing mt heads were machined on the intake side once before.. any ideas?
HELP intake bolt holes not aligning
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timmy.1953
timmy.1953
do you know if heads were milled if so intake needs to be too,tim
timmy.1953
timmy.1953
yes i understand how they were milled but if they go down to the block 0.30 then the intake will not fit,tim
The shop should know how much they cut off, I'm gonna guess off hand they charged you for it on your bill so they would have an idea of how much they cut based on what they charged; OR have your intake cut an amount equal to or just slightly less than the thickness of the gaskets.....done all the time.
highflyer
Well-Known Member
id be willing to bet you are trying to get them to fit with the end cork caskets that comes in the kit..dry fit and if they will go with the side gaskets on and the cork off the cork is too thick..that is one reason why lots use rtv bead on the ends instead of cork..sometimes iv made my own out of thinner cork.1/8.some years back a foam gasket was offered for there, but no more..j
pishta
I know I'm right....
Dont use the front and rear "S" gaskets, mount up and then fill gap with RTV. IF you lay the head on all the intake gaskets, is the manifoild too high compared to the head bolts? Thats common, just remove front and back ones then try again. Highflyer scooped me!
femtnmax
Well-Known Member
YES, usually it is better to cut the cylinder head intake gasket surface rather than the intake manifold. But either will work. Since your intake fits with no gasket Burch is correct suggesting to cut the intake surface about equal to the intake gasket thickness. Should not need to cut the front/rear intake surfaces that seal to the block if RTV sealant is used rather than the cork gaskets.
With the intake cut, then the gaskets between the intake and heads can be used.
doug 371
Well-Known Member
are u using the plastic gasket retainers?
dickey_440
Well-Known Member
I had the same problem. I milled the intake a little at a time until it lined up. I ditched the cork gaskets and used RTV. Worked out fine for me.
I use the complete gasket kit. We just put an intake on my son's 360 last night.
With the intake on and no gaskets, the bolt holes lined up. With all gaskets in place, the bolt holes are a little higher than the holes because the gaskets (especially the end ones) are not compressed.
What I did was try to put the intake on as centered as I can get it. The blot holes will be just to the bottom of the intake manifold holes. Start a bolt on each of the 4 end corners of the intake biasing the bolt towards the bottom of the hole and try to get the threads just started a few turns each. Try to get all 4 corners started, then work your way to the center. I had to run down the second bolts from the "corners" (no torquing yet) to get the center bolts installed on each side of the carb. That brought the bolt holes in better alignment. You have to try to catch the threads toward the bottom of the bolt holes. But always try to get as many bolts hand started before tightening if possible.
hemi446
Well-Known Member
If the heads are milled and or the block is decked the intake will need to be milled the same amount on both sides. If you don't the intake and head ports will not line up properly you don't want to just egg out the mounting bolt holes nothing will line up and that will hurt the performance
Here's some more food for thought..............
When I was guessing the shop cut your heads, it would have been the "clean up" cut to insure the heads were/are flat, I would like to hope they have an idea how much they cut for "clean up"
If you wanted to measure on your own, here's a way to figure it out. Go to the hardware store, get a shoulder bolt, screw it into a manifold bolt hole, measure from the shoulder to the bottom of the head with a pair of calipers, front and back, both heads, if you can lay your hands on a KNOWN UNCUT head, do the same measurement, and bada bing you can figure out how much your heads were cut.
When I was guessing the shop cut your heads, it would have been the "clean up" cut to insure the heads were/are flat, I would like to hope they have an idea how much they cut for "clean up"
If you wanted to measure on your own, here's a way to figure it out. Go to the hardware store, get a shoulder bolt, screw it into a manifold bolt hole, measure from the shoulder to the bottom of the head with a pair of calipers, front and back, both heads, if you can lay your hands on a KNOWN UNCUT head, do the same measurement, and bada bing you can figure out how much your heads were cut.
Locomotion
Well-Known Member
As others have said, remove any block pegs in the front & rear manifold gasket areas. Toss the cork/foam end gaskets. Use RTV. Trial fit the intake without any gaskets. If the holes line up perfectly, on both sides, mill the intake surfaces .005-.010 less than the gasket is thick. (Make up for compression.) You can guesstimate any additional difference - If the intake holes are higher, mill approx. that much more off the intake, or less if they are lower without any gaskets.
That's what I did several years ago when I found that my "EX" engine builder wallowed out the intake holes to fit instead of milling the intake side of the heads.
That's what I did several years ago when I found that my "EX" engine builder wallowed out the intake holes to fit instead of milling the intake side of the heads.
bbrroowwnn
never re member
X2...its in the geometry.....milling just the bottom of the head like your machinist did will change the intake mounting hole position because of geometry....
You may be able to get by with using the metal intake gaskets....
If it still will not line up with the end gaskets out, mic the main intake gaskets and have the intake milled that much. It will line up then.
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