Help me decide on this '67 Dart GT

[burrpenick]

It seems like a pretty solid car-although I have NOT seen it in person. Has all the good stuff already done: 8.75 SG rear, front discs, fresh 360/727. The biggest issue being the steering has some binding- I dont know how much. Seller says he inspected the steering box and it seems fine, thought it may be the bearings in the column. I've never heard of that being a cause, but the K frame has been changed to the later model, so I was told the steering gear must be used completely from either the old or new, but not mixed. My source thinks that may be more likely the cause of any binding. Ideas? Still has SBP rear axles, no heater motor, orig shifter missing and needs door panels. I like the GTS stripe on the 68-69 down the sides, wouldnt that work on this body? Ideas/value?

1967 dodge dart gt
paint color: black
title status: clean

1967 dodge dart gts. originally a 273 car now it has a 360 and 727 automatic transmission. factory bucket seats 8 3/4 3.55 sure grip. The front K member was switched to the big bolt pattern and manual disc brakes. 360 has a mild cam edelbrock performer intake, and a 600 holley vacuum secondary carb, summit brand headers. The 727 is fresh with a dayco conveter. The ignition was upgraded to the electronic mopar unit. It has manual steering and all the lights and wipers work. I'm asking 5600 cash with no trades.
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[jerry6]

Any pics , very interested

 

[67Dart273]

I was told the steering gear must be used completely from either the old or new, but not mixed.

This is absolutely not true, and my own car is a good example.

The difference is in 73, in the 67 only I member, and whether or not you have a newer "big spline" pitman shaft.

So you must match the steering box, the pitman arm, idler arm, and steering link.

WITH ONE CATCH

If you still have the original 67 idler arm / K member, IT HAS a unique, one year only mount. This means you can NOT use the later "big spline" stuff unless you

change to a 68--72, or a 73-76 K member

or re-work (fab and weld) the idler bracket to take the 68 /later idler arm

===========================

Depending on the problem the steering issue can be fixed I'm sure. Used / usable steering boxes are not expensive

With no photos to judge "rust" condition and body condition in general, this could be a good buy, a fair buy, or over priced.

"How to identify" the unique, 67 only idler arm........it has a stud mount like the tie rod ends. The 68 / later have a "through bolt" meaning a bolt and a head clear through the idler and brackets, and a nut on the end.

 

[65Val]

1967 dodge dart gts.originally a 273 car

Well, it's not a real GTS if it had a 273 to begin with.

 

[burrpenick]

Jerry6: I am not selling this car, but interested in it MYSELF, so no, the partial post is for INFO PURPOSES ONLY!

Yes, its NOT a GTS- I think in 67 that was 383 only cars...........Will try to find out more on the binding soon, thinking its still got the 67 idler arm but I c/b wrong. Dont know what he means by newer K frame, but probably the 68-69 vs the 73 and up. Assuming the body and interior are GOOD, what do you feel like would be a good buy?

George

 

[Trojmn]

Whatever is binding, it cant be much to fix. I'd be more worried about body/frame rot than mechanical stuff. If it drives strait, looks strait and everything thats been touched isnt half assed it seems like a fair deal to me. its very similar to the condition of my rust free barracuda that i paid more for with lousy paint. So to me its a good/fair deal.

give it a REAL good look over take cash with you and start deducting $100 bills until you feel comfortable.

 

[67Dart273]

Assuming the body and interior are GOOD, what do you feel like would be a good buy?

George

No piccures= no opinion

 

[burrpenick]

ok, here are some pics, have not heard back on my additional questions.

 

[barbee6043]

now we have some pics so I will give my worthless 2 cents worth!!!
I would say, if the rust repair was done OK and nO frame rust, looks like in the pic older enamel paint or recent poor job?? o k for driver if that suits you or re shoot it if good foundation. receipts on engine work? that of worth more than a few $$ if done correctly. interior good? or is it old upholstery coming apart???
the steering problem like the other guy said, should be an easy fix. simply match components for the year of the k frame.
decent tires, exhaust,????? if the paint works s uits you, i'd say price is in ballpark. now if the paint work doesn,t make you happy, can you redo it yourself, ( materials $800 deopending on what yo do and use)... OR have to pay a bodyman, or take it to maaco????
do you want a 20-20 driver or a show poodle????
if it was a real 383 car, you wouldn't buy it for that!!?????
its hard to look over a car in person and determine what it iS, impossible looking a a bad pic!!???? Ha

 

[burrpenick]

It is a GT, not GTS as advertised. Body work is supposed to be good, with just a couple of spots needing some minor attention. It was welded on, not just filled. Paint is not slick, but I'm not worried about that. Interior looks good, but I'm betting its not new. $4500 sounds better to me! George

 

[duster360]

If it is as advertised and the body and frame are not rotted out, I fell even at $5000 you would have a good deal on your hands. Just my opinion.

 

[BobK]

I paid $2k for a fairly solid shell of a 67 Dart GT a few weeks ago with no motor, trans, or interior. $5k for what's in those pics is a pretty good deal.

 

[burrpenick]

I agree, 5K would be a decent deal. I've been stuck w/A bodies w/7.25 rears several times and that is an expensive issue to deal with.

Will the 68-69 GTS side stripe work on the 67?

George

 

[barbee6043]

I agree, 5K would be a decent deal. I've been stuck w/A bodies w/7.25 rears several times and that is an expensive issue to deal with.

Will the 68-69 GTS side stripe work on the 67?

George

some good things for sure. 8 3/4 even with open pumkin still good! I see alum rad. good! fresh engine good, if not done by a one eyed drunk!? disc setup ( off 7-6 a body) with new parts? worth $400 or more.
if not wrecked, rusted frames, and bodywork done by a escapee from mental ward, looks like I would spent your $$$ on it!!!

 

[barbee6043]

I agree, 5K would be a decent deal. I've been stuck w/A bodies w/7.25 rears several times and that is an expensive issue to deal with.

Will the 68-69 GTS side stripe work on the 67?

George

some good things for sure. 8 3/4 even with open pumkin still good! I see alum rad. good! fresh engine good, if not done by a one eyed drunk!? disc setup ( off 7-6 a body) with new parts? worth $400 or more.
if not wrecked, rusted frames, and bodywork done by a escapee from mental ward, looks like I would spent your $$$ on it!!!
fancy wheels. worth some $$$ too.

 

[BrianT]

Just some things I noticed to help you out. Missing door panel(s), radio and antenna gone, no heater core, blower motor, windshield washers. Rattle can rebuild, look at the overspray on heads and fuel line.

I'm not saying I wouldn't buy it, but I'd look it over very closely. Ask him why he's selling it? Look at the front frame rails behind where the upper control arms mount. The 67 is an oddball year. They are not on par for price with the 68-69 cars. I'd use all of these things in your negotiations if you are serious about buying it.

 

[burrpenick]

I had a list of missing stuff for sure; not too worried about the paint on the engine- I've touched up stuff like that before- but NEVER get overspray, or clean it off! The motor seems to be stout. I thought the rails were much thicker up around that upper mount and thus not prone to issues? funny, I too like th 68/69 better and YES, they seem to be more expensive! I actually like the 67-69 Bcuda notchback best, but have not found a decent one currently- I have owned a bunch of them..........