help needed with 904

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Now that's what I was suspecting this one also because of the yellow spring but when compared to the other one which I do believe is stock, the attachment holds a bracket for both of those Springs not individual ones and where it comes out of is a little different. These valve bodies are deffently different
This is where the PR spring is, and I see that valve body has a yellow spring.
That may be a kit indication, because I think stock is plain steel and not colored.

View attachment 1715042090
 
Do you think it possible to buy the seals individually locally or would it be a summit thing? Thank you
Both seals for the valve body linkage would be best done now, as they are a PIA in the car.
There are no other gaskets involved with the valve body removal.
Pressure= 30-40 lbs is enough.
They will stand a crapload more than that, but I wouldn't go over 80 or so.
 
Do you think it possible to buy the seals individually locally or would it be a summit thing? Thank you

I got all mine except the metal embedded pan gasket locally, and the pan gasket can be gotten from the dealer by ordering it for the 42RH trans if you want one of those.
I did get the seals individually locally.
The dude just dug through a few boxes of extra rebuild kit parts.
Transmission Parts Online Automatic Transmission Parts was a really good source with great prices.

"tweet, tweet, tweet" for automatics huh? :D
There are a few of us that have done them for a living in the past, but in my case I'm not on here all the time but can help sometimes when I am.
 
Well I wish you had more time to give more advice because this part of the Forum I'm finding out quickly seems to be lacking quite a bit
I got all mine except the metal embedded pan gasket locally, and the pan gasket can be gotten from the dealer by ordering it for the 42RH trans if you want one of those.
I did get the seals individually locally.
The dude just dug through a few boxes of extra rebuild kit parts.
Transmission Parts Online Automatic Transmission Parts was a really good source with great prices.

"tweet, tweet, tweet" for automatics huh? :D
There are a few of us that have done them for a living in the past, but in my case I'm not on here all the time but can help sometimes when I am.
 
Also with my wild idea of having the cooling being self-sufficient if you will, I have ideas about making my own kickdown linkage? I have a picture of something here but was hoping to make something of my own in a similar fashion. What question would be is The lever coming out of the transmission spring loaded on its own? So all I really need is a cable with a sliding mechanism at the other end for the carburetor and of course adjustment?
1968-plymouth-valiant-lokar-kick-down-bracket-braket-attached-to-the-tailshaft-housing.jpeg
 
We have a local transtar warehouse...the linkage seals were 3 dollars...bought two yesterday to finish up the second 904 and keep one as a spare.
 
Probably should get it all torn apart and make a list of what you need....might be cheaper to buy rebuild kit at some point.
 
I guess I'll know what they look like when I pull them off tomorrow. I'm assuming the bolts are the ones that hold the valve body down and the screws are the ones that hold valve body itself together? I noticed One Transmission had flat head and the other I think had Phillip?
We have a local transtar warehouse...the linkage seals were 3 dollars...bought two yesterday to finish up the second 904 and keep one as a spare.
 
10-4 I'll get inside of it tomorrow and see how far I should go. Of course I'll post pictures and all that

Probably should get it all torn apart and make a list of what you need....might be cheaper to buy rebuild kit at some point.
 
Also with my wild idea of having the cooling being self-sufficient if you will, I have ideas about making my own kickdown linkage? I have a picture of something here but was hoping to make something of my own in a similar fashion. What question would be is The lever coming out of the transmission spring loaded on its own? So all I really need is a cable with a sliding mechanism at the other end for the carburetor and of course adjustment?
View attachment 1715042096

Yea, the lever has a lot of non sprung play in it, but comes up against the spring farther in it's rearward travel.
It really is best to have a light return spring pulling the lever on the trans all the way forward at zero throttle .
Also you might try to get that cable lined straight up with the lever or the cable will cut into the aluminum from pulling at an angle.
 
I guess I'll know what they look like when I pull them off tomorrow. I'm assuming the bolts are the ones that hold the valve body down and the screws are the ones that hold valve body itself together? I noticed One Transmission had flat head and the other I think had Phillip?

You got it, and they did vary between flat and Phillips on the body halves.
Watch for the check balls to fall out if you open the two halves, and I also have the diagram for where they go if you end up needing it.
 
You got it, and they did vary between flat and Phillips on the body halves.
Watch for the check balls to fall out if you open the two halves, and I also have the diagram for where they go if you end up needing it.

It'll be interesting to see if it has an accumulator spring in it or not.
That spring cushions the apply of the bands for softer shifts and can be removed and the accumulator piston can be blocked so it doesn't move.
(a little more bang to the shifts):D
 
Sorry, I see that pic isn't your trans, but cable lineup still applies.:D
 
Yeah I thought that cable looked a little off myself but that was the general idea Photo
 
Getting the front pump out opens up the whole transmission...

A slide hammer is what is used to get the pump out...two of the 6 bolt holes in the pump have recessed threads in them to screw in slide hammer to remove pump....

there are some videos on youtube showing the pump removal....there is a series of videos 904 overhaul for rookies..

 
This will also help specifically with the valve body part even though you are not actually doing the kit (yet):D.
There are more than one video and the others should show up at the end of each.
904's and 727's are almost exactly the same in this area.
 
Love this guy! (When he bitches about the Neighbors dog! LOL)
A little slow And at some point I keep thinking should I just start disassembling the transmission And follow? Well anyways I'm up to video five and I'm not feeling the rocket science yet but I am starting to get the feeling I'm going to want to pull this thing apart. So far easier than the 4 speed.


Getting the front pump out opens up the whole transmission...

A slide hammer is what is used to get the pump out...two of the 6 bolt holes in the pump have recessed threads in them to screw in slide hammer to remove pump....

there are some videos on youtube showing the pump removal....there is a series of videos 904 overhaul for rookies..

 
Okay I pulled the valve body off and put air to the rear Servo and it worked and function properly but seemed extremely loose with what I see. Compared there's a lot of play left in the adjustment on it. also so I want to check that one of the first things could have been the reverse problem that was complained about. But I did put air to the reversed valve or something up front and it didn't make but more of a whoosh sound then a clicking sound like the others did? Oh yeah and there's no Big Spring where the Accumulator? Pump is? All point my finger to it in a picture
 
Yes the rear Servo is extremely loose like I can push down on the adjuster like a half inch before it even starts activating
 
More conversation with previous owner (very nice guy) feals reverse linkage never good and the tranny finally had enough and reverse finally gave out. To avoid any further damage Tranny pulled soon afterwards and oil was dark-ish, screen ok. Left that way and robbed of any exterior things needed for new transmission. Tranny reported to have good kick! Was just going to adjust bands and try again and never did.
 
Ok, so here's the deal.
Not very happy about the darker fluid because that usually means one of a few things.
Either it was slipping and burned the fluid and at least one of the clutch sets or a band.
It got real hot and just burned the fluid without hurting much (this one is a bit rare)
Or it was neglected and the fluid got like that over time. (kinda common)
If it smells like burned wood with an oil hint it's probably going to need a rebuild.

I blew up this previous pic to give more info so I hope it's viewable.
There are two clutch sets inside drums, and the second gear band is under that front band.
The other is inside that Big bell looking part (the sun gear shell)
Each of the servos are marked with dots to the holes you want to pressurize to activate.
Those four red dots in the holes are the ones to air test.

The two clutchpacks make a thunk type sound with just a little bit of air noise along with it from down inside the trans.
The servos are quieter with less escaping air noise.
You could even adjust the bands if you like before testing but about 1/2 inch freeplay on the rear band is pretty close.
The front band servo pin should pop up about 1/4-3/8 of an inch when hit with air.

You can give the rear sprag a quick diagnosis to see if it probably works by turning the output shaft back and forth.
One direction it should be easier to turn than the other direction and you may even hear a squeaking sound turning it one direction and not the other.
The squeaking sound is a good thing and usually means the sprag is working.

Besides the pump these are the 5 major components that can be tested on the bench and have some degree of confidence that the trans might be ok.

Almost missed ya for tonight, as I just came in to shut the computer down and FABO was still open so I saw your message.
Let me know how it goes.

autotrans-pressure-testports.jpg
 
So I blew into the " rear clutch supply" hole and didn't seem right ?

SHHHHH!
That's the one that usually gets burned up when the fluid is dark.
Keep in mind that the air going to both those clutches rely on steel rings kind of like a piston has to seal the air in as it passes through the to those clutchpacks.
Could that be how it sound not right?

When you put air to either clutchpack it should be a kind of definite "thunk" and maybe even a bit of a squawk sound on the rear clutch.
 
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