Help with shifter

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evans68cuda

evans68cuda

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Hey all! So I got an a833 that a friend and I pulled out of a barracuda several months ago. He insisted on taking the shifter off to get the trans out but I didn't want to since idk how to put it all back together. Long story short, I let him do it now I can't figure it out. Any ideas on how to put it back?

image.jpeg
 
do you have the end plate that goes in the slots?
 
Daves69 said:
did you mount it to the trans and setup all neutrals?
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Yes, both of the top shifters are in the middle and the lower reverse rod is facing get upward. It just takes a lot of effort side to side to find your gears... Let me out it this way, fund reverse and 3/4 won't be horribly but 1/2 will be a nightmare. Maybe I could lube it up? Or am I missing something?
 
So you get the pattern but it takes some searching. Lube it up. That's what I'd try. It may also feel/respond different when everything is bolted in the car. They are not difficult to change while in if you need to later.
 
Daves69 said:
So you get the pattern but it takes some searching. Lube it up. That's what I'd try. It may also feel/respond different when everything is bolted in the car. They are not difficult to change while in if you need to later.
Click to expand...
That's a good point, I do want a hurst style shifter so I was hoping to swap one into this but not sure about that anymore... The car I pulled it out of had a beat up trans tunnel for 2 and 4 hear cuz that shifter sits awkwardly. I'll mock it up before I ruin my brand new hump
 
It does have a very stiff reverse lock-out.
When shifting these on the bench, it does take a lot of effort to go through the gate. But once it is bolted to the tranny and the tranny is bolted in, I like it; there is no mistaking which leg I'm in.And banging the 2-3 is lightning!
Also trying to shift into any gear on an 833 with the tranny out of the car is an exercise in frustration, cuz the clutching teeth rarely line up.What often happens is you jam up one brass ring and then it's even worse. To unstick the brass can be a challenge. With the forks in neutral,the input gear needs to be turned while the output is held fast. Then the brass has to let go. If you want to bench shift it, the input should be simultaneously turned at a slow speed, and the shifter slammed in. This is how you will be shifting it once the tranny is installed. And it will shift perfect.
Unless, of course, the brass is ornery,worn out, or bent, or the clutch is dragging, or sometimes the N-1 hangs up, cuz the input has completely stopped spinning.That's why I never run 140oil. When coming to a stoplight,and clutching it,the gears stop spinning almost instantly,as soon as you are stopped, and there you are stuck in neutral and the light is long green and people are honking at you to get moving!
I love that short stick Mr.G. Mine is circa 1971, has close to 200,000 miles, and received a cleaning in about 2004.Yours looks really really good.
 
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That shifter looks mint but I didn't see the rear plate in any pictures, if it's not there it will smash the plates together and it will be impossible to shift, here is what i am talking about. The plate that goes in the slots and is part of the shifter box.

Hurst.jpg
 
AJ/FormS said:
It does have a very stiff reverse lock-out.
When shifting these on the bench, it does take a lot of effort to go through the gate. But once it is bolted to the tranny and the tranny is bolted in, I like it; there is no mistaking which leg I'm in.And banging the 2-3 is lightning!
Also trying to shift into any gear on an 833 with the tranny out of the car is an exercise in frustration, cuz the clutching teeth rarely line up.What often happens is you jam up one brass ring and then it's even worse. To unstick the brass can be a challenge. With the forks in neutral,the input gear needs to be turned while the output is held fast. Then the brass has to let go. If you want to bench shift it, the input should be simultaneously turned at a slow speed, and the shifter slammed in. This is how you will be shifting it once the tranny is installed. And it will shift perfect.
Unless, of course, the brass is ornery,worn out, or bent, or the clutch is dragging, or sometimes the N-1 hangs up, cuz the input has completely stopped spinning.That's why I never run 140oil. When coming to a stoplight,and clutching it,the gears stop spinning almost instantly,as soon as you are stopped, and there you are stuck in neutral and the light is long green and people are honking at you to get moving!
I love that short stick Mr.G. Mine is circa 1971, has close to 200,000 miles, and received a cleaning in about 2004.Yours looks really really good.
Click to expand...
Interesting. Well you are probably right that it will be easier to shift once it's in the car but I just don't want to risk it not working and having to wait a week or so for a hurst to come in after having her ready to drive. I would love to make it work.
 
brian6pac said:
That shifter looks mint but I didn't see the rear plate in any pictures, if it's not there it will smash the plates together and it will be impossible to shift, here is what i am talking about. The plate that goes in the slots and is part of the shifter box.

View attachment 1715007560
Click to expand...
In image 2 you can see the same view as the shifter you posted. There may not be one.
 
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