Hemi swap oil pan questions

-
SlantedDart said:
Manual
Click to expand...

Ok. Based on this post, I'm going to guess it is a 16:1 box. Classic looks to list all 3 so seems reasonable.

Reason I ask is to see if there is a difference between the number of turns when the box is loose and when the steering is hooked up. If it is a 16:1 box, and the posted 3.5 turns is accurate, it would make sense that the box isn't where the steering limit is.

If almost 3.5 turns is correct, that would mean you are at the edge of it working with 1.5 turns on your box before crashing with the oil pan.

I would hook up the rest of the steering, even if you have to load the suspension to keep from making the tie rods unhappy, eyeball the alignment and try it then.

Might still not work, looks like the early LBJ don't have a stub for a steering stop. Those might turn further than the later BJ. Don't know what the setup was on the early cars to limit the steering.
 
Yes it’s 16:1 box. Okay so I’ve talk to old owner of the car. It has 75 duster spindles/ lower ball joints on it.. single piston disc brakes, it has stops on ball joints. I got the tie rods to go in but they are just pissed.. maybe because I have calvert front shocks? More travel?
 
SlantedDart said:
Yes it’s 16:1 box. Okay so I’ve talk to old owner of the car. It has 75 duster spindles/ lower ball joints on it.. single piston disc brakes, it has stops on ball joints. I got the tie rods to go in but they are just pissed.. maybe because I have calvert front shocks? More travel?
Click to expand...

So you have a complete '73+ suspension on there. Shouldn't be any issues that I know of.

The travel shouldn't be affected by the shock unless it is too long or too short and then you will damage the shock or rip the mounts out. Suspension travel should be limited by the upper and lower bump stops.

Are you missing the upper bump stop under the UCA? That would let the suspension droop further than design and might put the tie rods or BJ's in a bind.
 
DionR said:
So you have a complete '73+ suspension on there. Shouldn't be any issues that I know of.

The travel shouldn't be affected by the shock unless it is too long or too short and then you will damage the shock or rip the mounts out. Suspension travel should be limited by the upper and lower bump stops.

Are you missing the upper bump stop under the UCA? That would let the suspension droop further than design and might put the tie rods or BJ's in a bind.
Click to expand...
Good point @DionR. Found the issue.. driver side had no stop.. passenger side does and went in happier than driver side
 
Okay now the conclusion with the pan.. with the spindle all the way to lock on the lower control arm stop. I’m about a 1/4 away from the pan turning right. Turning left no issues. So Holley pan will work but will need 73-76 steering stuff
 
RSM said:
Do you still have the drag link? If so I'll take it.
Click to expand...

Yep, still have it. PM me your address and I will see what I can put it in to ship it and get some idea of how much shipping will be.
 
I have a feeling that I'm going to be confronted with all of this.. Just got my new small sector box and curious how the 73 components worked on a small sector box
 
Dantra said:
I have a feeling that I'm going to be confronted with all of this.. Just got my new small sector box and curious how the 73 components worked on a small sector box
Click to expand...
The 73 and up drag link joints are the same as the 72 and older. All I changed was the drag link to get clearance for the Holley pan. The tie rods on my 71 bolted right into the 73 drag link. The pitman arms have the same size joint for the drag link.
 
RSM said:
The 73 and up drag link joints are the same as the 72 and older. All I changed was the drag link to get clearance for the Holley pan. The tie rods on my 71 bolted right into the 73 drag link. The pitman arms have the same size joint for the drag link.
Click to expand...
So the pitman arm doesn't need to be changed?
 
Dantra said:
So the pitman arm doesn't need to be changed?
Click to expand...
I don't remember now if I changed it. Let me figure that out before I tell you something wrong. It's been a year since I did the swap.
 
Dantra said:
So the pitman arm doesn't need to be changed?
Click to expand...
The pitman arm needs to be changed to use the 73 and up drag link. The idler arm has to be changed also. The tie rods do not need to be changed, I changed mine since they were worn out. There is a difference between power and manual steering pitman arms (large and small sector).
 
Got a notification on an update to this post today and realized I haven't updated here with my solution. I solved my center link/Idler arm clearance issue with some heating and beating of my Milodon oil pan

1000003778.jpg


1000003779.jpg


1000003780.jpg
 
RSM said:
The pitman arm needs to be changed to use the 73 and up drag link. The idler arm has to be changed also. The tie rods do not need to be changed, I changed mine since they were worn out. There is a difference between power and manual steering pitman arms (large and small sector).
Click to expand...
I thought the large and small sector difference was that pre 73 is small and 73 up is large. I'm PS small sector currently in my 69
 
Dantra said:
I thought the large and small sector difference was that pre 73 is small and 73 up is large. I'm PS small sector currently in my 69
Click to expand...
I have manual steering with a small sector. Not sure about sector sizes on PS.
 
392heminut said:
I got my oilpan from Charlie's Oilpans and run TTI headers in my 70 Cuda. Everything fits great and after 10+ years, still no leaks.
Click to expand...
Side question, what intake and carb are you running in your profile pic of the 392?
 
rdunnam said:
Side question, what intake and carb are you running in your profile pic of the 392?
Click to expand...
I'm running a Mopar Performance intake that came off of one of the early crate engines, I got it from Indy Cylinder Heads. Back when I did the swap the only carb intakes available were the Mopar Performance intake and XV Motorsports was marketing one. I sent $600 to XV for an intake and they jerked me around for over 6 months with various reasons why the intake wasn't available yet. I called Indy about their modular intake they had recently put on the market and the guy I talked to said it wasn't available yet but he gave me a killer deal on the Mopar Perfomance intake. The carb is a Carter 750.

I did manage to get my money back from XV, but I refuse to deal with them now.
 
RSM said:
The pitman arm needs to be changed to use the 73 and up drag link. The idler arm has to be changed also. The tie rods do not need to be changed, I changed mine since they were worn out. There is a difference between power and manual steering pitman arms (large and small sector).
Click to expand...
Ok
I have been reading through this post and have a question. The drag link, pitman arm and idler arm has to be changed to 73 and up. when you do this upgrade the Holley pan will fit? Still taking notes to do this swap so all this information is great thanks guys.
Pat Faley
 
fuzzman said:
Ok
I have been reading through this post and have a question. The drag link, pitman arm and idler arm has to be changed to 73 and up. when you do this upgrade the Holley pan will fit? Still taking notes to do this swap so all this information is great thanks guys.
Pat Faley
Click to expand...
Pat, the Holley "system" is all designed to work together. By "system" I mean the Holley mounts, (than move the engine forward) , oil pan and headers all based on the 1973 and up spool mount motor mounts, large sector steering box and associated tie rod/center link parts. So....If you have a spool mount K frame all of the Holley parts, it should mount your engine in the car and allow the stock steering /suspension. BUT it will move the engine forward well over an inch which may make fan clearance and transmission mounts/attachments an additional challenge
 
Dantra said:
I thought the large and small sector difference was that pre 73 is small and 73 up is large. I'm PS small sector currently in my 69
Click to expand...
That is correct the steering boxes are completely interchangeable on bolting to the K frame, but the 73 and up has the large sector, and thus the flipped center link attachment (see post 29 in this thread)
 
70Sbird said:
Pat, the Holley "system" is all designed to work together. By "system" I mean the Holley mounts, (than move the engine forward) , oil pan and headers all based on the 1973 and up spool mount motor mounts, large sector steering box and associated tie rod/center link parts. So....If you have a spool mount K frame all of the Holley parts, it should mount your engine in the car and allow the stock steering /suspension. BUT it will move the engine forward well over an inch which may make fan clearance and transmission mounts/attachments an additional challenge
Click to expand...
I was planning on using my 69 kframe and stick with the biscuit type of engine mounts. That is why I am asking the question about which oil pan I should buy if I also buy all the 73 and up steering stuff. Is it Holley or something else.
Thanks
Pat
 
Pretty sure the ‘73+ manual box pitman arm is for a small sector box and would allow someone to use the later center link with the earlier PS box.

To be clear, I don’t believe there is anything off the shelf that will work in a G3 swap with the stock PS box.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top