Home-made supersix stuff

[Serj22]

So, I decided to give up crying about not having the money I needed to complete my super six intake and just pick up a grinder and do something with my life.

I realized I should have bought the entire setup rather than piecing it out, but I have an exhaust manifold and intake, etc... to work with now, so I'm going to use them. I did not have the return spring hook, or a kickdown with the throttle mount on it or an EGR... so I made one out of 2 old battery tie downs for a golf cart, and some old chunk of 3/8" steel. I like it considering I have no real clue how to work with metal. I went off some basic measurements some others posted who had the real equipment or another homemade design. Perhaps you see something though that needs to be altered?

Here's the question. The choke needs to be converted to electric or manual it seems to easily finish and then figure out a home-made kickdown. IS IT POSSIBLE, that the location where the EGR would be, would create enough heat to move a coil-type choke like what was originally on it? If so, maybe I could drill a hole to it on the block off, make another bracket for it to hold the coil and make a rod to push straight up on the choke lever on the same side as the throttle? (long question... I know) But I could possibly make a 4 bird/one stone part...

Here's what I made so far.

 

[dartnabout]

This is interesting and since I am or will be in the same boat I am going to watch this thread. Sorry I don't have an answer for any of your questions.

 

[TheMoparMan]

I did my own fab of linkage for an offenhouser 4 barrel setup, had extra parts bins and other assorted bits to work with and came up with something and had the throttle and kick-down both working. Here is a picture of it hope it helps you. The kick down I first fab bed up was a coat hanger bent to the length and shape I needed. Then took a thin piece of steel and cut to length and drilled the ends. One end attached with a drilled rivet and a cotter pin, the other end used a swivel bracket attached to the bolt with another cotter pin. The bolt sticking out in back went there the saddle hole in the original kick down. It just needed to be pulled rather than pushed. So when the carb opens up it pulls the linkage and activates the kick down.

 

[TheMoparMan]

I used a ford four barrel thick gasket and had to cut a hole to clear the bolt in the offenhouser intake.

 

[TheMoparMan]

Here's the bolt that needed clearing

 

[dartnabout]

What carb are you using there Mopar man? That looks good

 

[TheMoparMan]

It was a four barrel manual choke 600 cfm Edelbrock. I wanna say a 1405. Don't have that car anymore.....

 

[TheMoparMan]

Here's of the over all engine compartment

 

[Serj22]

That actually is rather helpful, because it adresses the similar issue where the carb sits differently than stock. I'm still curious if anyone knows the answer to the choke coil being relocated or not, or if it has to be at the top portion of the exhaust manifold as it is.

I'm also wondering if it may be more worthwhile to wait on mounting the carter bbd I have and getting a 350 holley if that's worthwhile? Even if someone made a brand new two barrel I could use it. Just curious how well this Carter will run as-is, without knowing if it will function correctly.

 

[64ragtop]

The BBD should be OK on your /6, but there are differences between the /6 and the 318 V-8 ones.
Really good info HERE: http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=42041
I found the later posts more informative, but the whole thread should help you.
I hope so.

Just about everyone agrees that the generic parts store rebuilt carbs are truly a crapshoot. There are places that
specialize in rebuilding carbs, but I haven't heard from anyone who has gone that route. Looking at their websites,
they seem to know what they're doing, do you wanna be a guinea pig?

BC

 

[xLURKxDOGx]

Hey, im new here and looking to convert on my 63 Valiant to the Super Six setup. I have the manifold and carburetor, but the real problem im having is that i have switched from the stock exhaust to Clifford headers and the linkage that attaches from the exhaust manifold to the kickdown wont work. Does anyone have any suggestions on how i can go about getting this to work?

Thanks,
Jake

 

[Serj22]

I saw a picture on here someone posted (not sure which thread) where they put long bolts on the bottom of the intake manifold where the exhaust would normally mount to, and two spacers to take the place of the exhaust manifold girth, and then mounted the regular bracket to them below the spacers. Looked fairly simple. I wish I could find the picture.

 

[DustyRoads]

I'm still curious if anyone knows the answer to the choke coil being relocated
or not, or if it has to be at the top portion of the exhaust
manifold as it is.

I'm not sure; it's plenty hot down there, but it gets a lot of air wash from the fan. Looking at the stock choke, though, I really wonder how much of the "opening force" comes from engine heat, and how much comes from the 12v heating coil built into the choke. On old VWs with electric chokes, NONE of the heat to open the choke actually comes from the engine. The 12v heater coil slowly opens the choke after a couple of minutes of the coil wire getting energized. If the Super Six choke is the same, it's going to open after a couple of minutes of 12v power, no matter where it's located. You may want to ask somebody with a functional stock choke to turn the key on but not start the engine, and check the choke plate after waiting a few minutes and bumping the gas pedal to release the choke. If the choke is open with the engine stone cold, you'll have your answer.

 

[airgrabber]

I would look at an aftermarket kickdown linkage, like a Lokar cable type if you do not want to fab the stuff up. Also not sure why you can't just make the stock choke well work, the one on the exhaust manifold. You can notch it open on one side to match the factory Super Six exhaust manifold and then buy a stock coil choke for a Super Six. The fab work would be to modify the stock linkage arm that bolts to the choke shaft so that the choke rod will work it correctly. I think on slant6.org there's a whole tech page for doing the swap and even how someone modified a 318 choke lever to work on the Super Six. Either that or run a manual choke cable.
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/supersix/article.htm

 

[flamejockey]

I have a slant with a Offy intake, headers and a 390 cfm Holley 4b. It uses a cable throttle and down shift that allows the carb to be rotated 90 degrees. It's supposed to allow mote even airflow to all cylinders. Cables loop around and approach the carb from the passenger side.