hooking up engine to A/T

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Double Six

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This is first attempt at this primarily by myself,so I'm asking is this the way it goes together when hooking up? ( engine ,flywheel,flexplate,bellhousing which houses tork converter and trans) thx, Double Six. oh, I forgot to tell you this, we are putting engine and trans in together, already hooked togrther as one unit.
 
For AutoTrans there is no flywheel used. Before bolting flexplate to crank hub, match holes in flexplate to holes in convertor and mark the holes so they can be easily lined up when trans is bolted up. Those holes are not evenly spaced, they only fit one way. Then bolt flexplate to crank hub. Make sure convertor is seated onto trans shaft completely, spin it so square notches engage. Then bellhousing can be bolted up. You then match convertor bolt holes most times do this when engine/trans are in car. And don't overtighten the convertor bolts.
 
Frankly, I don't worry about the converter rotational indexing very much. Mark the thing first, or "look" for the marks. At least some years ARE marked, but even if they aren't, you just rotate them and LOOK

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I put the converter in the transmission and make SURE absolutely SURE it is all the way IN

Bolt the flex to the crank.

Bolt the trans to the engine.

Then jocky the engine on the cherry picker using an old tire. Even I, at 65, with arthritis, can reach along side the oil pan, and put one bolt in at a time.

Never EVER pull the converter and leave it bolted to the engine, or try and bolt to the engine first.
 
To install the converter all the way, I stand the trans on its tail shaft with the bellhousing straight up. Then put in the converter and rotate it until you hear "two clicks" when it drops down. Each "click" represents it dropping down slightly. It will "click" each time that it drops. Sometimes it takes a while to get the second click/drop, you may need to keep reversing the direction that you spin the converter until it finally gets the two drops. You must get it all the way down. Then be careful not to let the converter slide forward in the trans while you bolt it to the engine and flex plate.
 
This,absolutely! ^^^ Be patient, take your time. It's supposed to be a hobby.
 
Not meaning to hijack, but I have a question. I did my engine rebuild in 1980, a long time ago. I only had a Chiltons for my guide. It said to fill convertor with the right ATF first. So, how do you keep the fluid from draining when you turn it upside down? It is a pita to get it lined up, but I had to 'wiggle' it around to get it done. It didn't take all that much longer, but the key is PATIENCE. Thanks.
 
Louie70Dart said:
Not meaning to hijack, but I have a question. I did my engine rebuild in 1980, a long time ago. I only had a Chiltons for my guide. It said to fill convertor with the right ATF first. So, how do you keep the fluid from draining when you turn it upside down? It is a pita to get it lined up, but I had to 'wiggle' it around to get it done. It didn't take all that much longer, but the key is PATIENCE. Thanks.
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You do it dry.

After the engine is installed, before you start it, then you put in the fluid. Start at 6-7 quarts, then check it with the dipstick until it reads full. A Mopar trans takes 7-9 quarts of fluid to be full.

When you start it, and get it to where the engine will stay running. (set the timing and idle to where it will run). Then get in the car and cycle the trans through the gears while you have your food on the brake. 1st, reverse, 2nd, reverse, Drive, reverse, 2nd, reverse, 1st, reverse...

Go through all of the gears up and down 2 - 3 times, then check the fluid in neutral. Top it off until it is full on the dipstick.

Cycle through the gears again, and check the fluid. Repeat until the fluid level no longer drops when you cycle through the gears. This will fill your converter.

I worked at a 10 minute oil change when I was 16, this is how we filled the transmissions after a trans fluid change, including draining the converter. Never had a problem with this method.

If this is your first start of the engine, then let it run for the rest of the time that you need to break in the cam after you get the trans fluid filled and the engine to run stable. You may also tune it a little more after the trans is filled provided your oil pressure and temperature are ok.


Now back to our regularly scheduled program....
 
If these parts haven't always been together, Make sure the rounded nose on the torque converter matches the bore in the crank.
 
67Dart273 said:
Frankly, I don't worry about the converter rotational indexing very much. Mark the thing first, or "look" for the marks. At least some years ARE marked, but even if they aren't, you just rotate them and LOOK

wwitqw.jpg
Click to expand...


I've always set the torque converter drain plug opposite (180°) from the hole in the flex plate.
 
I would recommend lining up the converter to the flexplate, before you stick it in the trans, so the holes line up and use some spray paint to mark ONE hole on the flexplate and the converter so you can line them up easier when you marry it to the engine, one is offset.

As mentioned be darn sure you seat that converter properly if you don't you won't be happy with the end result. It should drop once and with some rotation it will drop again. Make SURE you hear two drops.
 
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