Hotwire harness-how to get around the 12v at start

-
If you feed the control side of your button from ign1 it will only engage the starter when the key is on. If you go 12v battery it will crank at any time, only start when the key is on. Either way the starter will not crank when engine is running because the PCM sees rpm and protects against double start.

Just saw this topic on another thread, and I would try jumping ign1 and ign2 first, it's easy and if it doesn't work you can add the button. Mine has started every time this way in 1200+ miles... So far, I'm sure I just jinxed myself...

Hey Ralphie, I keep looking at this photo trying to work out what this photo is of exactly?
 
Hey Ralphie, I keep looking at this photo trying to work out what this photo is of exactly?

Sorry, not the best pic! The brown loop of wire jumps from the ign1 to ign2, and it is just crimped into the connectors on the underhood bulkhead connector. I hope this works for you guys because it is a super easy fix!
 
This is our Australian Valiant ignition switches. Is this similar to what your's looks like?



I have no wiring in the car and am running a painless universal kit so I need to work out what to wire where. I think I'll use the button since I've already bought it, but I just need to wire it so it will operate with the key in the run position only.
 
-
Back
Top