73SlantSwinger
Well-Known Member
The headlights aren't working on this car, just bought it. I'm hoping it's something simple as the headlight switch is cheap to replace.....pretty straight forward job or does the cluster have to come out???
How hard to replace headlight switch on 67 Valiant?
- Thread starter 73SlantSwinger
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Undo battery, reach under where switch is. There is a spring loaded button under the switch. Push it up, and pull knob out. Unscrew bezel and switch will drop down. Then remove electrical connector. Easier than I've worded it lol
It can be a little tricky to press the button and get the knob out, but keep at it, and you'll get it...
Trojmn
Well-Known Member
could also be the high beam switch on the floor.
Check the fusable link also to be sure that it is not blown.
Are all the electronics out, or just the headlights?
Are all the electronics out, or just the headlights?
73SlantSwinger
Well-Known Member
this car has aftermarket tach mounted on steering wheel, and also has oil psi, volt, and water temp guages down under the ash tray.....nothing on the instrument panel works....
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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HabUcheckedThe Fuse? and the ground at the left front headlight? It could be multiple problems.There is another ground behind the driver's side kick-panel.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
There is no headlight fuse. The headlights (only) get power from the black ammeter wire splice, with a breaker in the switch
As mentioned, FIRST place to look is to check power at the dimmer switch. There are three wires. Two are always hot when the headlights are on. The third one comes "hot" when the switch is cycled, and one of the other two goes dead.
As mentioned, FIRST place to look is to check power at the dimmer switch. There are three wires. Two are always hot when the headlights are on. The third one comes "hot" when the switch is cycled, and one of the other two goes dead.
Bout ten minutes.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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I knew that,lol. I meant for the dash lights, coupled with multiple problems statement. I guess I could have made it clearer;sorry.
Young guys can dig it out faster,...... Their fingers are more limber,..... and less fat.
But if you don't have the special tool, it does take a little longer.
Young guys can dig it out faster,...... Their fingers are more limber,..... and less fat.
But if you don't have the special tool, it does take a little longer.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
Also, check the ground. About a year ago (when I was putting my Cuda back together) my lights wouldn't work. It drove me nuts until I realized I had forgotten to attach the two grounding wires. There is one on each side on my 69. The could be attached, but not making a ground. Also, before you go to the trouble of replacing the switch, see if you have power going to the headlight pigtail. When tracing electrical problems, I usually check the following things in the following order: Check the fuse, Check to see if current is getting to the item (using a circuit tester check for current in the wire(s) plugged into the item that is not working, Check the ground (if you do have power going to the item, try grounding it to a known good ground. if it works now, a bad ground was the problem), test the item itself (for example using a 12 volt battery make sure the light (or whatever) works, Check the switch (current going into and out of switch from the appropriate wires when the switch is moved) , and check the wiring last.
Only 1 screw holds the fuse box in place. Remove it, move the fusebox up 1/2 inch and toward firewall 1/2 inch to clear the bracket. You'll have ample space for finger on switch stem release button.
And just FYI we don't push the button to reinstall this stem. To do that could wreck the latch. The tapered tip of the stem guides it into a spring loaded "keyhole" styled latch.
And just FYI we don't push the button to reinstall this stem. To do that could wreck the latch. The tapered tip of the stem guides it into a spring loaded "keyhole" styled latch.
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73SlantSwinger
Well-Known Member
Correction, got a chance to look at it after work today and found the wipers work, the alternator guage, and the flashers work as well. I unscrewed the fuse box to get a better look at it and as far as i could tell the fuses looked fine, nothing broken. I tried to pull the one that was marked "inst. cluster" and it broke the glass.
I fully described the fuse box movement in effort to help with light switch R&R only.
Try not to move the fuse box around too much. The female spade terminals inside can slide right off the males. They didn't lock like the modern designs we have today. There are more male terminals than needed in there ( just how the bus bars are produced ) which can lead to more typing for us.
Visual inspection of fuses doesn't always validate them. At least 1 owner here found a fuse was broken underneath its metal cap where the break couldn't be seen. A simple test light is dirt cheap ( Harbor Freight ). A glass bar fuse assortment kit with proper tool wont break the bank either.
Try not to move the fuse box around too much. The female spade terminals inside can slide right off the males. They didn't lock like the modern designs we have today. There are more male terminals than needed in there ( just how the bus bars are produced ) which can lead to more typing for us.
Visual inspection of fuses doesn't always validate them. At least 1 owner here found a fuse was broken underneath its metal cap where the break couldn't be seen. A simple test light is dirt cheap ( Harbor Freight ). A glass bar fuse assortment kit with proper tool wont break the bank either.
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