How many degrees drop

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daredevil

daredevil

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Having problems getting my 500 dialed in. Temp keeps climbing and i have to shut it down. Using a milodon mechanical pump a 7 blade fan and mopar thermostatic clutch. Also using a 16 lb cap on a aluminum champion radiator 2 core filled with 75% water 25% antifreeze with a bottle of red line water wetter. Can anyone tell me what kind of temp difference I should see on a 90 degree day between the inlet and outlet of the radiator. I,m thinking I can buy an infrared temp gun and shoot the top and bottom to find temp drop. I am wondering if the cheap Champion is doing its job. If theres not enough difference I may need to bite the bullet for a becool radiator. I,m also considering 36* timing total may not be enough but would like to narrow the possible causes one at a time. Started from scratch with whole car so cant undo changes one at a time. Plugs arent lean, maybe a little on the fat side so i,m leaning towards the radiator. Question, How much temp drop between top and bottom hoses on a well working system?
 
Gotto ask but is your fan shrouded, is it a high volume cooling pump, what type thermostat (standard or high flow) and thermo temp., have you got anything in front of the rad like tranny cooler and how close is the leading edge of fan blades to the rad core.
 
fans shrouded, milodon high volume pump. tried 180 and 195 thermostat. Fan clutch is about a half inch from radiator and no cooler in front. Right now i have a restrictor in the neck with about a 7/8th inch hole. Was hoping to slow the water thru the radiator a little.Have tried without a stat also. Would like to know how much the radiator drops the temp top to bottom at operating temp.
 
Hi, got your PM. I did see this earlier.

I don't think a restrictor is the way to go. The only reason a liquid/ air heat exchanger would not give you it's capacity is if the pump is causing extreme turbulence and cavitation. I'm not sure I believe that common water pumps can do that

I guess the block/ heads/ passages are good and clean?

You checked the gauge and it ACTUALLY is overheating?

(Just how hot is it, and is it puking out the overflow?)

You might want to use the basic idea of putting the stats in a pan of water, use a candy, etc thermometer, and make sure they are opening at temp and are opening wide enough. Even a new stat can be bad, and open just a little.

Clutch fan. New? You sure it's OK? Those have always been suspect in my book when trouble arises

About the fan position. It's not important how close to the core it is, what you want is for the fan to be in the shroud area FOR the fan, IE not too deep, nor sticking out the rear.

Total timing sounds OK, but what is it doing the "rest" of the time, IE what is initial, and does it have a quick curve in the dist?

Temp drop across the rad is going to be a real subjective thing. I would think the only way to "know" that would be a factory situation, where you have 100 duplicate cars, all same engine, rad, tune, etc. A "one off" build just has too many variables.

Temp drop will depend on paint if any, airflow, water flow, and ambient air, IE hot/ dry air cools not as well as humid air, and higher altitude will make some difference.

What does it do on the highway at speed, or have you got that far?
 
Anybody have an infrared thermometer gun that can shoot me a top and bottom temp to give me any idea.
 
Maybe someone racing this weekend gonna have their gun out can check top and bottom.?
 
That's HUGE motor . I don't know anything about Champion but I do know that Griffin worked for me. If you ran the engine before the Champion and then after you should have felt a good deal of heat difference. I did with my Griffin.... the interior of the car was cooler, engine of course and the engine bay. The key word you're looking for is "efficiency"
 
Answers to 67 dart273 questions. I have 2 gauges electric and mechanical, within a couPle degrees. Fresh cleaned block and new Indy heads. Boils even without stat. Back of fan blades even with shroud. 18 initial 36 total in by 2200 rpm with no vacuum advance. Msd pro billet black bushing. Climbs slowly highway or city is why I suspect the radiator.
 
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