I've got a pair of 69 273 Dart torsen bars. I'll swap you. Interested in your front and rear anti-sway bars also.
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How much difference will it make?
- Thread starter Clelan
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I've got a pair of 69 273 Dart torsen bars. I'll swap you. Interested in your front and rear anti-sway bars also.
Walker434
Well-Known Member
I also wouldn't over think the torsion bars. I'm still running the stock 318 bars that came in the car.
You have a 69 that came with a 273 ?
Thanks for telling us that, bad *** dart dude
Kim, if that guy in the 71 charger wants to give it away make sure to tell him I'm 1st in line.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
Looks like Wookie316 from the B side. He's in Canada too. Just finishing a all- aluminum 572 for that car. Dyno'd 850hp.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
Yeah, but I love your pink Duster too, Kim!
Thanks!!!
I do .
Hmmm ... I thought 68 was the end of the 273. Learn something new every day .
I hate to put it that way. Maybe buzzard or vulture would be better. But whenever I see parts that I'm interested in that somebody may want to part ways with, I have to speak up. They don't make a lot of these parts anymore. Some of them they haven't made in a long, long time. And I'm finding they are difficult to locate. Like W2 mechanical rockers .
I'll be circling in the sky above .
I'll check the build date. I'm thinking it's a February car right off hand. But I'll double check.
Throwing parts at it, especially expensive shocks is the wrong approach with what you have and what you’re trying to do. If it were me...
1) Remove the rear clamps on the leafs
2) Unhook/remove the front sway bar
3) Run it
3a) Lose the Nittos and replace with MT or M&H drag radials
MANY a mopar has hooked and went fast with SS springs and the basic of shocks. I also think that at your power level, loose (90/10) shocks and slant 6 t bars will do wonders.
1) Remove the rear clamps on the leafs
2) Unhook/remove the front sway bar
3) Run it
3a) Lose the Nittos and replace with MT or M&H drag radials
MANY a mopar has hooked and went fast with SS springs and the basic of shocks. I also think that at your power level, loose (90/10) shocks and slant 6 t bars will do wonders.
Flare
New Member
Do you have a pinion snubber? What is the Stall on your converter?
It's only about a 2800 stall converter. No I don't have a pinion snubbed.
Cley
Cley
Ok so here's my set up back in the day, street/strip Cuda. 300hp@the track motor., max rpm 6000. 484/284 MP hyd. Stock 340 springs clamped@front, 727 with super holeshot verter. MP shocks with 2" extensions, stock front shocks, snubber 1/4" from floor, stock T-bars, 3.55's/posi, no sway bars in sight. Full weight ran 13.2's@101. Car used to lift front way up on the street when on it some even with road tyres, drove great. Ran it with 8x26" slicks prior to 10x28's same times. Just for some info>
Just one note I would say is to hook radials you need hp.
Just one note I would say is to hook radials you need hp.
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Swinger 340
Well-Known Member
Would not all the small blocks (stock) torsion bars be the same Dia., being they are like a spring that holds the car up from the ground. Using the 6 cyl. torsion bars on a small block, being lighter would transfer the weight of the car to the rear wheels quicker, as the small block torsion bars would do the same for the big blocks. I would only change them for drag racing only, as others have stated. Note: Be careful not to nick or scrape the bars upon replacing. They have been known to break if doing so. Someone mentioned adjusting the torsion bars down for racing, but I believe that will only drop the front end and not give you the transfer needed, being still a heavy bar. In my photo I have SS springs in a mostly stock 69 Dart and when I get the itch with the 4-speed hitting hard, there is no fighting the steering wheel, but just a solid straight line of travel. It all depends on the application that is wanted. One, does not fit all!!!!!
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Just saying:
My car is a lot like yours (OP), and I have it set up for street.
My car also 60fts in the 2.2 to 2.4 range, a lot like yours.
But she goes 93 in the Eighth. Which I'm very happy with.
So I know that my ET could be lower, if I made a few changes, but am unwilling to give up it's awesome street manners, so, I forced myself to accept the slower ET.
Since I only ever tracked this combo the one time, I feel I made the right decision.
For me, just knowing there is a half-second or so, yet to be had right in the 60ft; is enough.
My car is a lot like yours (OP), and I have it set up for street.
My car also 60fts in the 2.2 to 2.4 range, a lot like yours.
But she goes 93 in the Eighth. Which I'm very happy with.
So I know that my ET could be lower, if I made a few changes, but am unwilling to give up it's awesome street manners, so, I forced myself to accept the slower ET.
Since I only ever tracked this combo the one time, I feel I made the right decision.
For me, just knowing there is a half-second or so, yet to be had right in the 60ft; is enough.
I've found that they work good with the ss spring set up. Let it raise up on take-off. I'd do a couple of burn out's one like 5 seconds and one for 10 feel the tires with you hand. Sticky? Do a little testing on them.
Ok now that I'm up to speed on this thread.
This is what i would do with your car if it was mine and wanted to keep it mostly street with drag potential.
your not making enough power to have traction problem, in my opinion.
First: Get longer rear shock.......or prove that you have a "lot" of downward travel after your remove the bottom of the shock at ride height.
2nt: Disconnect front sway bar and safely move, out of the way of the suspension. because it has SS spring remove the rear or disable the rear sway bar as well. That It!
There has been plenty more good ideas suggested.
I feel this is all that you need, to get a good 60' time.
let us know how it works for you and what you decided to do.
This is what i would do with your car if it was mine and wanted to keep it mostly street with drag potential.
your not making enough power to have traction problem, in my opinion.
First: Get longer rear shock.......or prove that you have a "lot" of downward travel after your remove the bottom of the shock at ride height.
2nt: Disconnect front sway bar and safely move, out of the way of the suspension. because it has SS spring remove the rear or disable the rear sway bar as well. That It!
There has been plenty more good ideas suggested.
I feel this is all that you need, to get a good 60' time.
let us know how it works for you and what you decided to do.
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