How to build a SuperStock k-member

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Southernman

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Guys, I've gotten a couple requests to share a modification that I make to all my hotrods. This one happens to be on a 63 Plymouth Belvedere, but it will work on any A, B, E, C, F, body etc. I always upgrade my older cars to run a '68 or later k-member to gain a little setback and to permit modern components like headers and suspension pieces.

Hopefully, it's something of interest. If not, sorry for wasting your time. You will need some 1/8" steel plate; the ability to cut 1/8" plate; hand grinding tools (flap wheel works ok or small air grinder with discs); equipment to weld up to 1/8"; can of primer paint; a couple cans of finish color paint (I used POR-15). Takes about 4 hours to complete.

Southernman

Next, are a few shots showing how the k-member must be cut to accommodate big oil pans.

View attachment K-member Mod-01.jpg

View attachment K-member Mod-02.jpg

View attachment K-member Mod-03.jpg

View attachment K-member Mod-04.jpg

Here you can see I've started boxing in the notched area.

View attachment K-member Mod-05.jpg

From the bottom, you'll need to cut plates to fill the openings. Here's what it should look like. Remember, take your time and try to flush things up as much as possible.

View attachment K-member Mod-06.jpg

View attachment K-member Mod-07.jpg

Here you can see the k-member is just about finish welded from the top side and here's a shot of the bottom side which doesn't have to be perfect.

View attachment K-member Mod-09.jpg

Time to prime it.

View attachment K-member Mod-10.jpg

Finish with your paint and install. Now you're ready to fit any pan to your hotrod and it will make install and removal much easier.

View attachment K-member Mod-11.jpg

Like I said guys, I hope you enjoy it. If you like these kind of techie postings I could upload more.

Southernman
 
Thanks,Southern.Old school hot rodding,make what you have work.
 
Dammit man. That would allow this 12 qt early Hemi truck oil pan to fit. Nice work. Thanks for sharin.
 
Thanks for sharing- now 1 more thing to do when life finally allows me another big-block Mopar!
 
That is excellent! A great how-to on doing the modification. Thanks.
 
 
No issues with weakening of the K frame? Thats quite a lot of metal removed.

Just sayin...
 
Yes ,but there is a substantial change in the overall form of the frame,so I though it looked like it may twist...perhaps the boxing is enough!

I gather this mod is necessary when using a big oil pan at 7000 + rpm.
 
Hey guys, thanks for the feedback on the k-member mods, and I'd like to respond to those that took the time to check out the post.

First off, thanks for the interest guys. I'd also like to note that I've learned quite a bit as a result of being a member of both B and A body forums. Number 1 is: you guys on this A body forum are a much more 'lively' crowd, and you seem to be less bound by 'traditional' mores than the guys on the B body site - which, to me, makes this site more fun.

On the K-member mods; on every pre-66 car I've owned, I make several modifications:

Install a '68 or later k-member.
Notch the k-member for additional clearance (It makes it nice to be able to reach the front oil pan bolts - and any pan - should you need to), and it will help simplify the installation of a big block into an A body car - especially if you run a deep pan - any deep pan.

The mods I've posted here actually strengthen the k-member considerably, since the reinforcing metal is slightly thicker than the k-members metal. While I haven't weighed the pre-and post k-member, I do this modification mainly for access and that SuperStock appearance at the track and show. If I were pursuing weight reduction, I'd build my own tubular k-member and install it - but only for racing purposes...

It makes accessing external oiling systems, engine mounts, balancer and timing covers, and oil pumps much easier should you need to. It also has potential sales benefit if your target customer likes to race (big block in an A body - it's a no brainer).

Plus, it just says "SUPERSTOCK" once installed and I'm a fool when it comes to that class of cars...

Also, PettyBlue, nice job on that K-member. I know there are a lot of you guys out there doing this kind of stuff. Let's start putting up some "how to's" for the rest of the crowd and see if it generates interest.

I personally believe we could make FABO the "go to" site for the Mopar crowd if we all just took a little time to view it as a learning center for new rodders. I'm going to be posting some other 'how to's' over the next couple weeks. I hope everyone enjoys them as much as I did performing them.

Thanks again guys and I enjoy the commradre' !

Southernman
 
So the ss mod is a good idea even for my b motor with a 187 pan. I was planning on modding the pan for more oil cap,so maybe I'll do this mod.
 
pettybludart said:
Boxing the K in,your actually adding metal for a stiffer result.Just sayin..
Click to expand...
You might be right , then again the mods might put stress on parts that have not been re-enforced , have not done the calculations or worked it out , would take to much time . You would be surprised how a small change can affect a design . Just not sure I would be comfortable making these changes on a STREET driven car with resulting liability in case of serious accident .
Nice work anyways , just sayin , after 30 years designing and putting up office towers .
 
Drag racers have been doing that mod for a very long time now. Never hered of one having any trouble from it.
 
RMCHRGR - Very nice ! That's exactly what I meant by building a tubular k-member.

OK, I posted my how-to. Now let's see yours... ~{:>)

Southernman
 
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