How to deal with paranoia about fuel leaks

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^^^ You gotta change your avatar pix....I glance at it and think "Why is he showing us a Sunbeam Alpine?" The lens and fog lights throws it all off....LOL
 
LOL....now I don't care who you are.....that is FUNNY!!!!

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ntsqd said:
For hose clamps the best that I've found thus far is "ABA" brand and the most reliable place that I've found to get them is West Marine. These are the type with no holes in the band for the rubber to extrude through.
Click to expand...


The absolute best hose clamps are the Mubea spring clamps. They come in different diameters for all applications, fuel to radiator hoses.

They are "constant tension" clamp vs. a "constant diameter" clamp. Spring clamps are constant tension and provide the best sealing. They sell to the OEM companies.


View attachment Mubea std-hose-clamp_1__01.jpg


http://www.mubea.com/en/products-te...pring-band-clamps/standard-spring-band-clamp/
 
krazykuda said:
The absolute best hose clamps are the Mubea spring clamps. They come in different diameters for all applications, fuel to radiator hoses.

They are "constant tension" clamp vs. a "constant diameter" clamp. Spring clamps are constant tension and provide the best sealing. They sell to the OEM companies.


View attachment 1714708233


http://www.mubea.com/en/products-te...pring-band-clamps/standard-spring-band-clamp/
Click to expand...

Geez, KK, we've just gone full circle............

corbin-hose-clamp-set-big-block-mopar-with-ac.jpg
 
krazykuda said:
I wish I knew.
Click to expand...
As I was posting previously I was thinking about T-bolt style clamps and how those can be had in the "Constant Tension" variety. Which does the same thing as those Mubea's in a different way. Problem is t-bolts aren't cheap and they don't come in fuel hose sizes.

Can get them in a worm-drive though and they do come in fuel hose sizes, didn't know that until just now.
Mcmaster.com page with both on it:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#constant-tension-hose-clamps/=r950ht


5281k21p1l.png
8946k33p1l.png


I still think that avoiding clamps as much as possible is the better plan. "Push-Lock" or Barb-tite" fittings are barbed fittings the DO NOT WANT A CLAMP. Let me say that again, they DO NOT NEED A CLAMP. If you put a clamp on these fittings you WILL cut the liner of the hose and cause a leak.
A tech guy with M.O.R.E. required them on the race truck that I crew for and all of the explaining in the world that they were not normal barbed fittings and that clamps made them more dangerous & sure to leak fell on deaf ears. A$$hole, open your mind. He's supposed to be making the racing safer, not more dangerous.
Anyway, what these fittings look like:
globes-games_14_pushlock-hose-fitting.jpg
Push_Lock_Fittings.jpg


Can even get them in uber-race car anodized aluminum:
push_lock_90.jpg


Don't look much different, but they go together a lot different. Once the hose is on you can still see the barbs bulging the hose. With the hose designed to be used with these fittings the assembly is pressure rated to the hose's own rating. In the 1/4" to 3/8" range that is 250 psi @ something like 200° to 250°F. With no clamps!!

I am using these hose ends with the SAE J30 R9 low emissivity hose on my Valiant. It is NOT the hose intended to be used with these fittings. My fuel system is set-up for TBI so I have a 15-20 psi capable pump near the tank. However, the car is currently carbed with a by-passing regulator. As that regulator doesn't seem to work quite right I see 5-9 psi in the hose between the regulator and the carb. No clamps anywhere in the system. In fact the EFI fuel pump is solely supported by the inlet and outlet hoses, with no clamps.

EDIT:
If it bugs/worries to not have clamps then you can do what I did with some of the "mission critical" fuel hoses in the dyno room and that is to put a thin tye-wrap on the hose, between the barbs and pull them up to snug, but not tight. I've also done something similar using doubled safety wire.

Second EDIT:
Found some pics of the hose on the fittings, note the bulges in the hoses caused by the barbs:
no-hose-clamps-required-pushlock.jpg

push-lok-hose.jpg
 
I have used those for oil lines to an oil cooler in a race car running 60-70 psi max, where the oil got plenty hot. With the right hose (I used some with a woven steel inner braid liner and a woven cloth outer covering braid), you had to practically beat them onto the hose ends. I pulled on them like crazy and could not budge the line on the fittings; I really think I could have gently towed the whole race car with them! I put some wider clamps on them, lightly torqued, to feel better, but I am sure you are right and that the clamps were un-necessary. I got all of it at the local NAPA store that sells a lot of part to some local truck maintenance companies. Fittings and hoses were all good stuff.
 
Aeroquip's hose for these fittings, FC332 hose, has a woven layer in it that acts like a "chinese finger-trap". The harder something tries to pull the hose off the fitting, the tighter it grips the fitting. The trick to assembly is inertia, cause the hose to bulge from compression and it slips over the barbs easier. I won't say easy, because it isn't.
 
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